Vanity Fair.

Lake County Press, Issue 2159, 7 March 1907, Page 2

Vanity Fair.

ENGLISH FASHION LETTER. | t For somo time past wo have been ' ganging our am gait ' it. fashion matters to a j extent, and even imposed some of our j town fancies on Talis, such as the tauorj made.' which has been and still is much wern ; —with a difference—by Frenchwomen. ! THE COMING SLEEVE is a thing of joy—or terror, as you make it. If worn half-heartedly, it will be awful, for it is a huge balloon affair, and alack! the only alternative for the moment is one almost. f equally full, but with the fulness drooping ; : towards the elbow. Now. neither of these ( lias a chance of success unless boldly, almost ] aggressively, worn ; so t ho woman -\ylio cau- ! not fulfil this indispensable virtue will have ! to assume one if she have it nor, and boldly proclaiming that the new sleeve does not suit ; her, and that therefore she will wear what J docs, go in for .something less assertive, j though very possibly far more suitable. ! JACKETS AXD CAVES. Eton jackets appear still to be favorites, though there is an improvement ill their cut which in my eyes adds enormously to their :i attractiveness. The ' Eton ' is now made to j fit like a frlovc at the back, covering the \ waist, and shaped to the figure, the conse- ' quence being that it no longer rides or ( ' humps' as its wearer moves about. Jackets ! appear all to he three-quarter length, lighti titling, and if of cloth are inevitably I ' strapped' at the seams-, with very full ? almost umbrella skirts. The strapping cor- | taiuly adds cuormnusly to the appearance, ;. but only when done ' judgmavically' as our { old nurse used to say, for anything more J offensive than some of tho (second-rate) !> jackets one meets, strapped all over, as if the maker imagined straps were an ornament, it is hard to imagine. For smart occasions velvet appears to be little short of a uniform. 1 Sleeves arc mostly of the bishop shape, as i this allows of a dress bodice being worn \ under it without damage ; and collars can } scarcely be high or fussy enough, while I t fear shoulders are to be made to look squarer , and wider flian ever. I have seen ouo or \ two of these jackets with wide fur rovers, one j indeed with each revere of a whole sable skin, !• with the poor little paws and tail carefully I: set on outside the widest part of (he rovers. li' Thank goodness! wo are spared the wee j head which last year grinned, at us from j 1 under almost every pretty chin. I may mou- | lion thai. I see the übiquitous Eton is to i appear this -winter in sealskin for young | girls' wear. j Still, popular as jacket* certainly arc, capes j are also in great request, three-quarter j length being generally preferred as most ■ convenient, trimmed with fur .as rovers, and j also as collar, but with neither hood { nor secomh ape. Tho collar is almost inI »ariably fulled on to the cape, which is lined i with some bright material or with fur if made ! of moire, brocade, or velvet, but with tartan i woollen material if of the favourite boxcloth. 'j The Frincess of Wales had an exquisite • cloak of this make prepared for her, made of ] pale mauve satiu faced cloth, cut rather i, longer at the back than tho fronts, with a i very high sloping collar lined, like the ! cloak, with Mongolian fur of the purest • white. Another very dainty wrap of this sort was made of face-cloth, of a delicate grey exactly matching tho chinchilla fur with | which it was trimmed, which was of the finest, kind (no other has that paticular pure ' grey), and lined with an exquisite shade of j buttercup-yellow satin. I By-the bye, 1 see it stated that there is a obituce of the black cloth all-round cloak, so dear to the Flemish women, being introduced this winter. It is a most comfortable shape and with a pretty lining, handsome clasps, and a fur collar would be a very imposing garment. By the way, I came across rather A I'JiETTY JCOVKLTY ' llin other day for the dinner table. This was j a tablecloth of pale green linen hem-stitched, i with a band of cut-work all round the hem, 5 tho centre of the table having a piece of ' satiny while linen richly embroidered in flax j thread spread over it. The table decorations • were poppi-'js, wheatears, and hops, with j tilain white Cuiilport china, and you cannot • vhiuk how pivuy it was. The green cloth . seemed just the right background for the I rustic decora'ions. j Talking of fable decorations makes me I think of (he Üblo itself. How very dainty I some of the- autumn decorations and dishes j are. I do not think blackberries have ever i been so much utilised as they have this [ season, lu fact. I have seen them used in j every way in which one uses si.'-awherries, ! and with excellent, effect. Blackberry cake ! is delicious, though it is nothing more than I rather thick triangle of puff paste, split up I and filled in sandwich fashion with black- [ her. ies ami cream. Another delicious sweet is. ulackuerisy jiousse, which I found a short time since in my pet gastronomic paper, The Table, and promptly tried with much success ; I hasten fo hind on my discovery to you. Dissolve (i oz. of cane sugar iu a good gill of cold water, and simmer it together till it forms a thin syrup. I : Ciush and rub through a sieve one pound of i blackberries, and put aside a small quantity of the puree that results from this mixed j with a little of the syrup. Tut the rest of ; the puree and the syrup into a basin with i.llneo whole eggs, and whisk it all oxer a sanccpanful of boiling water till it is thick and frothy, then add half an ounce of J-.-.if gelatine and a few drops of carmine, and whisk it all together off the fire tilt it is I quite cold ; then pour it. into a fancy border i mould and put it aside till set. Now turn it j out, fill up the centre of tho mould with ! whipped cream, flavoured and coloured with I a little of the blackberry juice, and pour the j puree of blackberries set aside at first round the dish, and serve. I Have you heard of the latest development • of the 'Now Woman'? i A 3CEW HAT. j Good faith, it strikes i".e the New Woman is | only the old one writ huge, for truly chiffons j and millinery appear to occupy a good ileal : of her thoughts, and tho results are by no ! means invariably happy ! Imagine the real I ' topper,' rather lower and more pointed i than the genuine article, with a band finished f. with a bow on a somewhat more trout-rous . scale than the worser half of creation affect! ; Such, it scums, is all she can invent. Con- ; sidrring her other sartorial discoveries, it : strikes me she must be ambitious to perform ! tho part, of Helot for the New Man, and act 1 as the awful example ! After such an atrocjty, is not the following description of a ; e.hopcaii a la mode soothing ? imagine a ; brown felt toque Trimmed with i. torsade '. of coral pink velvet and fancy libhon of dark I brown and coral, a rosette of the coral ! with four little upstanding cuds finishing off ! the coiffure tit one side. Another dainty olive green felt of a modified ' picture' shape : was trimmed with palogtcou gauze and black satin bows, a straggling cluster of prettilyi, shaped chrysanthemums being tucked in under the brim at the back. .'■ In fur, the chief novelty appears to be 1 CAIiACUL ' (I do not want an ' a' in the last syllable instead of a'u'), a kind of astrachan, with long silky fur, mote like Cue pelt of a higblyt bred well-kept, retriever than any thing'l can j think of. It is not an expensive fur, ,:s furs I go, andil.i* yoar, by all accounts, they will i Le LCtiamly no; cheap. SHK NEW VEILS jwith their chenille spots ate nadi-tn'i-rlv I pr-nty, and so are the fichus vV'A: over-, ■..>,? t.ppe»is to te weaving. Antinuu is :i . r <ea< .f.uio for tiny addenda which ramvate a

slightly worn gown, and I saw a very pretty specimen of such :t thing the other day- It cousisted of jet insertion, about I.', iuch wiili'. which was mounted on a circular yoke of white satin, the nick being finished with one of the folded neukhiinds ( ,f black velvet witli a paste buekle, ilie strips of passementerie riuli.itmjr from the I.IIU spreading out hs they reached tho edge of the collar, and finishing each with a tiny tassal of cut jet. This had been adopted by a chilly mortal over a low-necked dress, which by its help and a pair of long Mack Suede gloves rea-h----iug v.'ell over the elbow, ami so up under the pulled half sleeves, converted a plain silk evening- dress into a very chic little theatre toilette. Elspeth.