Gardening Notes

Hutt News, Volume XXI, Issue 50, 9 June 1948, Page 6

Gardening Notes

Seasonal

(By “HORTI.”)

How long can seeds retain their vitality? is a question that occurs to most gardeners, particularly those who have had a few packets of left-overs from last seed sowing season.

Crop of Vegetation.

A complete answer to the question in its broade&t sense can hardly Lie found but it is a well-known fact that earth excavated from considerable depths and exposed to the elements often produces a crop of vegetation distinct from that surrounding it. That seeds may retain their vitality unimpaired it is essential that they be stored under ideal conditions, where there is little change in temperature or moisture. If kept too hot and dry they are parched and so killed, it too damp then either they germinate and spoil or decay. These considerations show w.’iy seeds retained in paper packets and left in cupboards or drawers, or tucked away in a flower pot on the greenhouse shelf for a season, stand little chance of germinating successfully the second year. Only when stored - in the cool and dry may they be considered satisfactory. Most vegetable seeds may be regarded as satisfactory in their second year but unless carefully stored will be feeble in the third year, or probably dead. The effective number of years which popular vegetable seeds may be kept is* as follows: —Beans 3, beetroot G, cabbage family 5, carrot 4, celery 8, cucumber 10, leek 3, lettuce 5, melon 10, onion 2, parsnip 2, parsley 3, pea 3, radish 4, spinach 5, tomato 4, turnip 5.

Test Germinating Bowers. Assuming that you have decided not to discard your surplus old seeds, it is advisable to test the germinating powers of any doubtful samples rather than risk a crop by sowing them in the hope that they will come up all right. •Seed testing for this purpose is quite simple. Procure a number of shallow tins with lids, and line each with a piece of blotting paper. Damp the latter by pouring a little water into the tin, and then lay a few of the seeds to be tested along the crease of the folded paper and close the lid. Place the tin in a warm place, the hot water cupboard will be quite suitable, and examine them from time to time. It is only necessary that the paper remains continuously damp, and this the closed lid tends to ensure. ; . In from five to ten days germination should have taken place with) ordinary seeds. To obtain the best results thee few points should be borne in mind:— ,| 1. The number of seeds tested should be ten or some multiple thereof to obtain an easy percentage of results. 2. Notice whether all the seeds germinate at the same time or spread over a period. 3. If some seeds germinate after so many days, while othersi take longer it is probable that the sample consists of new and old seeds. 4. If germination is delayed and the seedlings appar weak, seeds are at the end of their limit of good germination. These seeds will probably fail when sown out in the open. 5. If all the seeds germinate evenly and strongly the seeds may be sown with confidence.

6. Good seed should germinate 98 per cent, if the germination is 75 per cent, it is still regarded as satisfactory but full allowance for losses should be made when planting. 7. Finally, remember that the seedti being tested have everything in their favour and any sign of weakness disclosed will probably amount to failure when the seed is sown out in the open. Most seeds today are inexpensive and readily obtainable a id I would recommend that you purchase fresh seed from a good reliable firm and avoid the disappointment and additional labour involved by the use of old or inferior seed, The Friendly Worm. The earthworm is classed as a lowly animal, and is generally regarded as a terrible nuisance, especially when found in flower borders,, the lawn or in pot plants. The creature lives its unobtrusive life by tunnelling through the ground, literally eating its way along, for it obtains its food by swalowing the soil encountered in its travels, extracting the nourishment contained in it and throwing up the residue as worm casts on the surface. In this way passages are opened up in the soil which allow of the circulation of air, beside which the worm’s habit of -feeding helps to break up organic matter, to pulverise the soil particles which are brought up to the surface from below and to cover the ground with a fine new tilth. In addition the worms pull into their tunnel leaves, fragments of twigs and other vegetable matter lying on the ground, burying them in the soil and thus assisting in the formation of rich vegetable mould.

Tims althougli the gardener may feel disposed at times to eradicate

the worms, which Spoil the appearance of his lawn by their castings and which push up from his care-fully-prepared seed bed the precious seedlings just as they are showing through the ground, he may console himself by the fact that annoyance caused him is insignificant by comparison with the benefits conferred by the creatures. Worms in pots can be evicted by watering with lime water or mustard water. The worms •do not eat plant roots but prevent their development by burrowing about in the soil.

Asparagusj Beds. Established asparagus beds will need some attention during this month while preparation of new beds should be pushed ahead. Asparagus beds will remain in profit •for at least twenty yeai's so that .thorough preparation will well repay the grower. Beds may be' either “o:i the flat” or raised. I would recommend that raised beds be mo3t suitable in this district and this can be most economically done by cutting the beds five feet wide, with alleys two feet in width between them. The soil in these alleys should be taken out to a depth of one foot and the mould which is thus removed thrown on top of the bed. Raising the surface this way by say four or five inches ensures that the bed will be both warmer and drier. To prepare for planting trench to a depth of two feet and in the lower spit use an abundance of old mortar, bonfire ash and vegeable refuse to assist in breaking up the clay and keeping it porous.

In the top foot of soil use old mortar rubble or coarse sand, leaf mould and strawy horse manure, if obtainable, together with a generous dusting of lime and a sprinkling of basic slag. Leave the whole of the surface rough until the spring when it may be broken up as finely as possible to receive the crowns*. With established asparagus beds the first thing to do is to rake off the manure, litter or leaves and to fork very lightly between the rows; it is dangerous to go deeper than three or four inches, but the forking-up of the surface layer helps the plants immensely and allows the thick roots to take a new lease of life when the call of spring comes. After * forking scatter loz. of salt per 'square yard or, better skill, 3ozs. of kanit over the same area. If salt is ■used the bed might also be given a liberal dressing of wood ashes, or failing that, a sprinkling of artificial manure. After that the bed should be covered with well-decayed leaf mould, or seaweed will be found most beneficial. If treatment on the above lines is given no further stimulant will be required until spring when a very light dressing of nitrate of soda or some liquid feeding will assist in the production of the thick succulent shoots that every gardener desires.

Rhododendrons and Azaleas. These beautiful plants have rather pronounced likes and dislikes in regard to soil. To try to grow them in a chalky district or on soil rich in lime is to meet with certain failure. On the other hand, it is folly to say that they can only be grown on a peaty~soil. If in the garden there is a site with fairly loamy soil, partially shaded by trees or buidingsi it will grow these plants splendidly. Even if the site* is in full sunlight that is not so very great a handicap. The soil should be trenched to a depth of at least two feet and thor-oughly-decayed manure, sand and leaf-mould incorporated. If obtainable, peat is also of much benefit. Soil preparation should be completed a few weeks before planting for established bushes of both rhododendrons and azaleas. It is well to remember that these plants dislike interference with the surface soil around their rootfi and at this time of the year will benefit by a dresiing of leaves or leaf-mould six inches thick around the roots, and evefi-y second year by a top dressing of decayed manure during the winter months.