CARNATIONS AND THEIR CULTIVATION.

Hutt News, Volume 1, Issue 13, 23 August 1928, Page 5

CARNATIONS AND THEIR CULTIVATION.

(Lecture delivered by H. A. Fox, Esq, before the Hutt "Calley Horticultural Society.)

How to produce those glorious flowers measuring from 3£ to 4 inches across, perfect in colour and in form, with stems fl-om 30 to 36 inches in length is a subject that interests most lovers of flowers.

My greatest success in producing blooms of this quality was only arrived at after years of study and experimentii»g—and then proved itself over quite a number of years. Admittedly there is a certain amount of hard woTk and preparation, but when such results as outlined in my first paragraph are definitely assured surely it is worth working- for.

At the outset beds are laid off about 30 feet long by 4 feet in width. This makes the centre row of plants always* easy of access. These beds are always trenched —if on flat ground —to a depth of 21 inches on one side and 24 inches on the lower side, thus securing a 3ineh slope for drainage. Two or tnree places are cut into the lower sire of the beds and a deeper hole is then dug in the path. These are filled with ashes and garden rubbish which ensures good drainage during wet periods, which is essential fo good Carnation growing.

A. reasonable amount of fairly old manure is dug into the bottom 15 inches of the beds to assist drainage, and the whole is then trodflen firmly? Manure so placed also assists in producing better plants if they are allowed to remain in the same beds for a period of two

years,

The next 12 inches is treated as follows:—To each 4 barrowloads of soil is added one of good well rotted horse manure and one of sharp sand and say about a quart of soot that is about 3 months or more old—never fresh soot — the whole being thoroughly mixea t>ercre adding the next 6 barrowloads, and so on unfil 12 inches have been added all over the Bed. This is tlien trodden very firmly all over, but not rammed down. In this way it will compress into a 9-inch layer. A similar depth should be added all over the bed once more under exactly similar conditions and when finished the top of the bed will be about 6 inches above the path..

If preferred, and provided it is available, a good plan with the top 12 inches" ir- to throw in the earth first.

Then open up a V-shaped trench from end to enu of the bed and put old crumpled newspapers, shavings, twigs, boards etc., in that will burn readily and make a good blaze. The flames will lick the side of the trench and as soon as burnt out mix the ashes thoroughly with the soil, add your manure and sand at the rate of one burrowi'ul of each to 4 of earth and when fully incorporated tread down once more very firmly all over the bed. Next fork the whole over to a depth, of 3 or 4 inches and the bed is ready for^planting. If you can add a proportion of old rotfen turf to the last 12 or 15 inches all the better, but these should be well broken up first. Please 1 remember it is far better to prepare your beds this way than to add fertilizers at a later period. In fact, my experience is that great care MUST be' exercised in using artificial manures of any kind in earnatloli "bells, as it is the greatest source of "carnation rust" which/""is a very deadly enemy. rUr. Douglas has confirmed this again and again. Tho next question is what kind of plants to use. This is most important, and I .say without hesitation or fear of contradiction that "nothing can compare with fresh imported stock "each year. \ There is. • positiveely no comparison with locally grown plants and the newly importeu ones. Always remember that the imported plants arc layered in August, consequently are 17 months old when they bloom. They are taken from plants grown under glass, having been layered in the pots where the old plants are growing and when removeS are potted up inte 3-inch pots—l pair in each pot. As soon as they are well rooted in those pots they are transferred' on to beds of ashes in. the open air and so are hardened off before they are packed for export. They should arrive in New Zea\and in January and before planting are soaked in water, aTTowed to drain for a day, they are then removed with soil intact from the potsy, the soil being \ gripped firmly with both hands, keeping the thumbs on the top soil between the two plants. Gentle pressure is applied with the thumbs and the two plants split apart leaving a well rootea p*ant in catch hand with the soil otherwise undisturbed. These are planted at once into the newly prepared bed. £n planting a hole is opeheefwith the trowel sufficiently deep so that when finished the old soil around the plant will be covered over with the new soil about one inch deep. Always plant firmly, even to the extent of applying a -entle foot pressure" around the plant, and adding sufficient soil so that no^water can lie around the plants. As sooh as a bed is Jflanted once more fork the top soil to a depth of 3 inches, but don't disturb the soil that is close to the plant. Now comes a most important feature, and that is to keep the top soil hoed or forked over at least two or three times every week, no matter whether it is wet or fine. The soil soon becomes friable, and even after "very heavy "tain you will be surprised what a few moments are necessary fo do this work and how satisfactorily the ground behaves. This should be continued right up to the flowering period. It is far better than waterings or liquid manurings and really acts as a mulch if the weather is- at all dry. Either just before or ffiimediately after planting pinch out the nentrc of every plant. Don't "be* tempted to try a few without doing this, if you do you will lose many lovely blooms that would otherwise develop on the plants. In about two or three weeks after planting they will show fresh growth freely and will speedily begin to stool out. In fact they will be fine sturdy plants before the winter sets in. \Jtu9T kHITI XQnQßff 9QUhBk SBWK is necessary till the bpring arrives. When the plants begin to throw up flowering stems is a good time to give a light dressing of half rotted stable manure, or else a liquid manuring with, horse manure, but only give it once. When drying winds set in a mulch of half rotted manure to a depth of two inches will be of great benefit, but . don't have it too deep, as by doing so you keep out too much air from th°> roots. From time to time use the fork to keep the soil open, but uon'tipisturb the mulch more than is necessary, because it is not wise to apply another too soon or your plants will grow leggy. (To be continued).