EVEREST GIVEN UP

Hawke's Bay Tribune, Volume XXVI, Issue 156, 17 June 1936, Page 8

EVEREST GIVEN UP

Snow Renders Further Effort Useless PARTY’S LAST CLIMB I Ry Telegraph—Press Assn—Copyright. LONDON, June 16. A copyright message from Mr Hugh I r.uttlcdge at Camp I. on Monday says: I “The Everest expedition must now depart. Deep snow everywhere is rendering further effort useless, ’ although Smythe and Wyn Harris discovered a route which I am convinced will be of great value on a fntere occasion. Unhappily, it has been made in a season in which Everest has not given us a single chance. The seven climbers ascending the ice fall on the west side of the North Col were prevented from examining the upper slope by clouds. Already then there was evidence that, the monsoon would be so severe and the snow so deep that Everest would be unclimbable this year. “Smythe and Wyn-Harris yesterday took advantage of a temporary lull and proceeded to a point previously attained just out of the reach of avalanches pouring off the North Col. The rush of air from one nearly blew down their tent during the night. This morning they obtained a clear view of the slopes to the crest and, although the snow was too dangerous to make an ascent, they are satisfied that, given certain conditions. a safer and more direct route could be made on this side. “Smith-Windham and I, with porters, went up half-way to the ice fall and formed a similar opinion from a good viewpoint. Sir Percy Cox, chairman of the Everest Committee, commenting on tho telegram, says: “The committee’s regret will be shared by Britons throughout the world, as the conquest of Everest has become a national enterprise on which all hearts are set. The expedition’s splendid composition and equipment justified every hope as far as human agencies were concerned, but the early monsoon and the heavy snowfall, preventing re-occupation of the North Col, which was originally occupied with unusual ease a week ahead of schedule, produced impossible conditions that no previous expedition has ever suffered.’’ The committee is telegraphing Mr Ruttledge sympathising in his lamentable ill-fortune, recognising that no leadership or mountaineering skill could have averted the result, and congratulating members on emerging from their critical experiences without casualty.