THE HOME GARDEN

Hawera Star, Volume LIV, 7 November 1935, Page 10

THE HOME GARDEN

PROVIDING WINTER GREENS PLANTING OUT KUMARAS ATTENTION TO FLOWER GARDEN (By “Salvia.”) Now Zealand spinach, though not a true spinach, is an excellent substitute when the ordinary spinacli runs quickly to seed in hot, dry weather. Seeds may be sown now, and a short row is sufficient for an ordinary sized family. Three or four seeds should be sown in clumps at intervals of two feet apart, and the seedlings thinned out to the strongest one at each place. The plants will grow luxuriantly even in a hot, dry season, and are perennial unless cut down by severe frost in winter. The tender young shoots should be picked for cooking and cooked in the same way as ordinary spinach. Only sufficient water should be placed in the bottom of the utensil used to prevent the spinach burning. As soon as the spinach commences to cook it exudes enough moisture to keep it from drying.

SAVOY CABBAGE. This is one of the hardiest of the winter vegetables, and is of superior flavour to the ordinary cabbage, frosts improve the crispness and flavour. They grow well in any ordinary garden soil, but it must be made firm when the plants are planted out, or the hearts will be loose instead of being firm and compact. Sowings can be made from now to the beginning of December for succession. Sow the seeds thinly in a nursery bed and thin out the seedlings to two inches apart. When large enough to transplant set them out two feet apart in rows two feet apart, and give plenty of water during dry weather until they become well established.

KUMARAS. Kumaras or sweet potatoes will grow well in any ordinary garden soil, and are preferred by many to the ordinary potato. They also have the advantage of being immune from the. fungoid diseases which attack the ordinary. potato. T.hev are grown from cuttings which spring up from the mature kumaras, which are placed on a hotbed of manure and covered with soil. The shoots grow in large numbers and are detached when a few inches in length and are planted out in November. The kumara plants give the best results when planted in about 12 inches of light, sandy soil on a hard bottom. If planted in rich, deep land the kumaras, which are really a swollen portion of the roots, do not form properly ; the obstruction caused by the roots coming into contact with a hard bottom causes the roots to swell and form tubers. T.he cuttings should bo planted three on a mound, with the mounds three feet apart, or singly in rows, the plants 30 inches apart, and the rows three feet apart.. After cultivation consists of earthing up the plants when large enough, keeping the soil free from weeds, and lifting the runners occasionally to prevent, them rooting into the soil. Cuttings suitable for planting are purchasable at reasonable rates from seedsmen from early in November until December.

MIGNONETTE

Among the many fragrant flowers the mignonette is unsurpassed; both in the garden and cut for indoor decoration. the perfume is always welcome. The seeds should he sown where the plants are to flower, as the seedlings do not transplant well. The plants are lovers of lime, and some should be scattered freely on the soil around the plants and lightly forked in.

CHRYSANTHEMUMS.

Rooted cuttings should be planted out now in well-dug soil to which humus in the form of well-rotted leaves, weeds, or animal manure has been added. Make the soil very firm before planting, and after planting tread the soil very firm round the plants to induce a short-jointed, stocky growth. Plant two feet apart, and if in rows the rows should be throe feet apart. To prevent “rust” attacking the plants dust a liberal quantity of an equal mixture of lime and sulphur on the. soil round the plants and fork it lightly in. and dust th c plants with finely powdered flowers of sulphur once a week; this should be done while the leaves arc- wet with dew or rain, or made wet by watering. ROSES. Look over rose hushes at frequent intervals and rub off any shoots growing towards the centres of the plants. Aphides (“green fly”) is prevalent now, and should bo destroyed as soon as observed. When on the shoots only they can be rubbed off with the first finger and thumb, but if all over the plants an insecticide of some kind must be used, either “Black-leaf 40” or kerosene emulsion. The latter may be made by boiling one .half-pound of soft scrap in two Quarts of water; while still boiling take off the fire and add one pint of kerosene. Then churn for 10 minutes with a syringe to thoroughly emulsify tho mixture, which when cold should he the consistency of cream. Acid 10 times the volume of hot water.

If available mulch the plants with well-rotted manure or vegetable refuse to keep the soil moist; cover to a depth of three or four inches and place a little soil on top of the mulch, so that it will not look unsightly.

REMINDERS. Spray poach and nectarine trees affected with “leaf curl” with Bordeaux mixture, summer strength (one pound of Bordeaux powder to 10 gallons of water); one pound of treacle added will make the mixture adhere better. Trees badly affected should he sprayed several times at intervals of seven days.

Spray plum trees affected with “bladder plums” with Bordeaux mixture (summer strength). All affected plains should be picked off and burnt, and also any lying on the ground. Badly affected' trees should bo spray-

ed three or four times at intervals of seven days.

Spray potato foliage with Bordeaux mixture (summer strength) to prevent, attacks of “Irish blight.” Spray several times at intervals of seven days in moist, humid weather, or every 14 days in hot, dry weather. Spray tomato plants with Bordeaux mixture (summer strength) as soon as they are planted and afterwards at intervals of 14 days.

Spray apple, pear and quince trees with arsenate of lead .solution as soon as the flower petals have fallen to protect the fruit from attack by the caterpillars of t]ie c-odlin moth. Use one teaspoonful of powder or two of paste to each gallon of water, or for large orchards one pound of powder or two of paste to each 50 gallons of water. 'The first spray should ho directed with force into the calises of the fruit, and subsequent sprayings (which should be done every three weeks until the fruit is ripe) should he mist-like, so as to cover the whole of the fruit and foliage with minute dots of spray. . Plant gladioli corms in rich soil m a sunny position. Plant from six to nine inches deep (according to tho size of the corms) and one foot, apart. Prune spring-flowering shrubs as soon as the flowers have faded. Sow seeds of hardy and Jialf-hardy varieties of flowering plants. Sow seeds of tender varieties of flowering plants in a sheltered nursery bed outdoors. Protect from frost at night. Plant tomato plants in a sunny, sheltered position 18 inches apart, and drive in a stake which should be five feet above ground. Tie the. plants to the stakes as they advance in growth, and pinch out all side-shoots which grow at tho junction of each leaf with the main stem as soon as they can be handled. Protect from cold winds and possible frosts at night with tins or boxes with the tops and bottoms removed, covering the tins or boxes with pieces of wood, tin or sacking at. night to exclude frost. Remove the tins or boxes when the weather is warm during the day to keep the plants as hardj and sturdy as possible. Sow beet, broad beans, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, French, butter and runner beams, cabbage (drumhead and savoy), cauliflower (Autmn Giant), cress, lettuce, onion (for, salads), parsnip, parsley, radish, rhubarb, salsify, spinach, silver beet and turnips (including swedes). Plant cabbage, cauliflower, lettuce and tomato plants.