MOUNT EVEREST

Greymouth Evening Star, 19 June 1922, Page 5

MOUNT EVEREST

EXPEDITION’S ADVENTURES.

CLIMBERS’ NARROW ESCAPES.

) (Australian and N.Z. Cable Association. —■■ , Recd. 10 a.m LONDON, June 17. j General Bruce, leader of the Mt. Ev i erest expedition, in a lengthy despatcl : from the base camp at Rongbuk, gives - extracts from a diary covering the rei cent doings of the expedition. ! He states : Mallory and Doctor Som- ■ ervel reached North Col on May 17. 1 Five members of the expedition and a large number of porters established a ' camp there on May 20 at a height of 25,000 feet. Next day, Mallory, Morshead and Norton climbed to 26,800 feet without oxygen, and thereby accomplished the most successful and daring mountaineering feat yet recorded, and one of the greatest feats of pure human endurance in any field of activity. Since the last despatch was forwarded, great efforts have been made to complete tho linos of communication. General Bruce gives details of establishing three intermediate camps one at 17.800 feet, the second at 19.800 feet and the third at the foot of NorthCol 21,000 feet. Enormous difficulties were encountered, and work was carried out in the face of the stiffest mountaineering difficulties, across moraines and glaciers, amid deep snow. The party was much hindered by crevasses, bad weather and the intense cold. The third camp forms an advanced base where enough food is stored to supply 10 Britons and many porters, and also a full Alpine and bulky oxygen plant. All camps are now completed and furnished with every necessity, including fuel. While the establishment of camps was being completed, Mallory and Somervell as an advance guard started to make the road up the north. Cold weather through the operations, unsettled the thermometer, ranging to eight below zero. The country is almost bare of fuel. The porters’ work was beyond praise considering the difficult country. In a fortnight they transported sufficient supplies for 60 people for the whole month, to a

height from between 16,000 and 21,000 feet. This did not include the camp at 23,000 feet, and a camplet at 25,000 feet. The latter was quite unprecedented as 24,600 feet was the previous highest record. How soon the whole force is collectable at the advanced base is a question of supply of the elusive Tibetan coolies, whereon the expedition is obliged to lean. These are most difficult to obtain, owing to the season of the year. However, the chief difficulties are now ended. The two main enemies are shortness of time and unsettled weather, consequently Strutt, who has first class mountain knowledge has been placed in charge of the advanced base, and it was considered advisable to take the first opportunity to make a reconnaisance before the oxygen plant was ready, because it was felt that if a camp could be established at 25,000 feet, it would be of the greatest importance when the time came for the grand assault, armed with oxygen. The weather did its best to annihilate this reconnaisance. Mallory’s party descended in desperate circumstances, after one of the grand est struggles with mountains evermade. Mallory adds an account of this dash which reached the height of 26,800 feet. He tells of the difficulties as they mounted with a piercingly cold wind, the men slowly cutting steps in the frozen snow and ice. They camped at mid-day in a most uncomfortable position as it was necessary to send back the porters before the weather got worse, to prevent them getting frestbitten. Three of Mallory’s fingers and Norton’s ear were frostbitten. Morshead was badly chilled, and became unwell. Snow fell during the night and the next morning Morshead stat ed that he would not proceed farther as his condition was uch that it would only keep his companions back. The other two pushing < nward, were impeded by the snow, but found travelling less difficult than anticipated. The chief drawback was the difficulty of breathing owing to the rarity of air.

With the aneroid registering 26.800 feet they turned to descend and picked up Morshead. Soon a i ->sty slip occurred, and the three were 1 eld up by a rope belayed to a single ice axe. They were more cautious afterwards, but were now racing gainst darkness. Morshead showed great pluck in descending, but was unwell and exhausted" Norton had to s ipport him on his shoulder. After sunset, they had to cross a dangerous crevasse. They lit a candle and groped for an ice axe. When ascending the candle burned out and hope seemed extinguished, but groping blindly someone found the rope. They reached camp, only to find the most essential of all things missing, a drink, for which their parched throats yearned. All day they had relieved with a mixture of jam, frozen milk and snow. Morshead declared that thirst alone did him up. Mallory adds : ‘‘With a windless day they might have had the summit within reach. Our margin of safety was small, and the three of them mmht have been out of action bv frostbite. They were not fortunate, hut in view of the severe conditions, Were not wholly unlucky.”