Thank you for correcting the text in this article. Your corrections improve Papers Past searches for everyone. See the latest corrections.

This article contains searchable text which was automatically generated and may contain errors. Join the community and correct any errors you spot to help us improve Papers Past.

Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image

WORK IN THE GARDEN

This should be a busy time in the garden, as there are many things which need attention. In the flower garden annuals and perennials' which have been hardened off should be transplanted out into their flowering quarters. It is most essential that the sites bo well prepared before planting, so that the soil is friable and free, enabling the young roots quickly to take hold. A good dressing of welliprepared compost worked into the surface, or, failing this, a dressing of oyster shell (Oceanic lime), will be found beneficial. This valuable material has a tendency not only to help the root action of the plants,-but also to prevent many pests destroying the young plants. From now on seeds of hardy annuals and perennials may be sown in beds prepared outside. Care must be exercised iii preparing the seed beds. .All clumps of clay and- other coarse material should be raked out, so that little fine drills can be made to receive the seeds Many fine 6eeds., I. am alfraid, fail to germinate owing to. the fact that they are not sufficiently covered with fine material, in which case they are often destroyed by birds or dried up with the prevailing winds. Fine seeds, such as Iceland poppies, etc., should be covered lightly, but the coarser seeds, such as calendulas, asters, zinnias, stocks, and similar seeds, require more soil to cover them thoroughly. Do not use the spade to pat in the surface after sowing. Allow it to remain as it is If the soil is in a dry condition it would be advisable to water the-seed in the drills before covering with the. soil, but care must be taken so: as not to wash the seeds out of the drills. THE PERENNIAL BORDERS. These borders will require attention at this stage. The use of the push hoe between the clumps will not only destroy the seedling weeds, but will also allow the air and sun to penetrate into the roots. It will also preserve the moisture, which is most important for all these gross-feeding plants. This is a good time to transplant and also to plant newer varieties. Care should be taken when planting that the colours should not clash with each other._ Also all the tall-growing varieties should be planted at the back, keeping the dwarf-growing kinds in the Ifront. A mulch of half-rotted material should be applied after the borders have been planted and all weeds, etc,, removed. This will save a lot of extra labour later in watering if we should have a. dry spell. All these -plants enjoy plenty of moisture throughout the summer months. THE GLASSHOOSE. Where there is a' glasshouse available, cuttings of . fuchsia and all softWooded plants can be inserted in a mixture _ containing plenty of open material, and then place the pots or boxes containing the cUttihgs into a deep box, placing a piece of glass over them. By keeping the box. closed fOr a few days the cuttings will quickly root, after . which they should be potted up into pots. There is no heed to grow the : old varieties of .fuchsias, such .as Rose of Castile, Phenomenal, etc., as we have finer varieties, with more compact habits/ and certainly finer flowers, and the colourings are ideal. The tubers •of. begonias, gloxinias, and other varieties of tubers Which have been resting should; now be boxed up, using an open material which contains leaf mould and clean sand or oyster grit. Care must be taken not to use too much water. Only a little water should be applied—just to keep the material slightly moist' until the growth is well away, when they should be potted up into pots which are not too large to take the tubers. Do not over-pot. It is better, to shift them on in easy stages as the plants develop. The cultivation of begonias is very easy, and anyone with a cold glasshouse can grow them, providing the plants have partial shade and a moist atmosphere throughout the growing period. THE SPRING SHOW. The Horticultural Society held' its, spring show last week, and provided a splendid display; Although we experienced heavy rains last- month this did not interfere with the daffodils. In fact, these lovely spring flowers enjoy plenty of moisture in the early spring while building up their- flower spikes. There were some splendid individual blooms staged, not only in the open classes but also* in the amateur classes, and even in the novice classes. Mr ,C. V. Dickinson, jun., scored heavily with no fewer than nine firsts and one second out of 10 entries. The varieties staged were no doubt out'of . the ordinary for any amateur with small means at his disposal. Daffodils, of a high standard are recognised the world over as a_ rich man’s hobby. In the plant section the hyacinths were very good, Mr S. Webb staged some good spikes, certainly an improvement on previous shows. The cut flower sections, especially the polyanthus, were outstanding. In the open classes Mrs Stewart, Mr Sturmer; and Mr Preen were the leading exhibitors, and the champion vase was awarded to Mrs Stewart for a lovely vase of crimsons. In the amateur classes a new exhibitor was Mr Eden, of Mulford street, Concord, who staged some good spikes of blooms, for which he was awarded three firsts, in good competition. In the other _ cut flower sections, Mrs It. S., Glendining, Miss M. McPherson (of Mosgiel), and Mr Rupert Fountain, staged some splendid specimens of flowering shrubs. The decorative section was somewhat disappointing, except in a few individual exhibits. When we remember the large number of entries that were staged iri the early days and the high standard of work carried out in the tables, etc., tlje exhibitors do not seem to', take the same interest. There is no doubt a reason for this, and the clause in the schedule, I am afraid, is responsible, that is, exhibitors in the open classes for tables are allowed to bring their work already done and place it on the. tables, while the amateurs, must do all their work in the room before the members of the committee. In this there is preferential treatment. If all the work was done in the room there would be a possibility of educating the amateurs and the general public. In the decorative posy bowl section (open class) a lovely posy bowl was staged by a schoolgirl, Miss Noelene Stunner. This was the outstanding feature in the decorative section —without a doubt, and a work of art. The flowers used were aubretia, euica, thyme, heliotrope, breath of heaven, forget-me-not, kiss-me-in-the-dark, blue pea, and lamaria, finished off with hard fern. The whole combination was of a lavender shade, and was commented on by a large number of visitors. In the decorative tables for Women’s Institutes, Waitabflna was the winner, with Green Island second. There were four entries, which were up to the usual standard, and these four' entries certainly made -up for the poor entries of the local exhibitors on the tables, as only one exhibitor was entered for the open classes. F.S.P., N.D.H. (N.Z.),

Permanent link to this item

https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/ESD19461018.2.21

Bibliographic details

Evening Star, Issue 25926, 18 October 1946, Page 4

Word Count
1,192

WORK IN THE GARDEN Evening Star, Issue 25926, 18 October 1946, Page 4

WORK IN THE GARDEN Evening Star, Issue 25926, 18 October 1946, Page 4

Help

Log in or create a Papers Past website account

Use your Papers Past website account to correct newspaper text.

By creating and using this account you agree to our terms of use.

Log in with RealMe®

If you’ve used a RealMe login somewhere else, you can use it here too. If you don’t already have a username and password, just click Log in and you can choose to create one.


Log in again to continue your work

Your session has expired.

Log in again with RealMe®


Alert