EVEREST EXPEDITION.

Evening Star, Issue 22952, 9 May 1938, Page 10

EVEREST EXPEDITION.

The * Mount Everest” Expedition of 1938, led by Mr H. W. Tilman, bas arrived at the base camp at the llongbuk Glacier. It is there that climbers will be addressed—and blessed—by the Abbot of llougbuk Monastery. Apart altogether from the official blessing, which climber-pilgrims of the past have found to irradiate a blend of the secular and the mystic, it is conceded that the abbot has a liberal understanding of the difficulties confronting would-be conquerors of Everest, thus enabling him to impart a wealth of useful ‘information about the course of action best suited to the prevailing conditions . The party now making the attempt will in many ways use methods conventionally employed by some recent expeditions in other parts of the Himalayas, but Mr Tilman himself, who, with Mr Eric Shiptou, has much brilliant mountaineering in the Xanda Devi territory to his credit, is said to bo responsible for renewing the argument that it is an asset lor an expedition of this sort to bo freed of all resources except the bare essentials, llescrves he considers to be not merely useless, but even an utter handicap, lu accordance with the leader’s principles the present party is smaller than have been its predecessors. It consists of six climbers and one doctor, the medical man being also an experienced alpinist. It bas no transport officer, no military escort, and no wireless unit. Probably Mr Tilman is acting on the conclusions he came to during his Nanda Devi explorations, in the course of which he had to cut down rations and equipment to a severe minimum. Mountaineers throughout the world, as well as countless other people who have become intensely interested in these persistent attempts at reaching Everest’s summit, will no doubt follow intently the expedition’s application of the “ travel lightly ” concept to the greatest of the Himalayan giants. The chief problems that such an expedition has to face were formulated many years ago, tbe factors remaining unchanged by any change of geographical approach. The time for the biggest effort to be made lies between winter and the monsoon conditions. During that period the

westerly wind moderates before the approaching mopsoon, and there is a chance of a brief spell of fine weather. Recollecting, apparently, how the last expedition’s ambitions were only too effectively quashed through the arrival of the monsoon ten days earlier than it was expected, Mr Tilinan has set his party moving earlier this year so as to be on the spot in good time tor the ‘‘ dash/’ it is, of course, the final ascent that constitutes the greatest difficulty. The climb to the first 28,000 ft has come 1 to be regarded almost as a matter of course. Even with the aid of transported oxygen those who climb the last I,oooft will know what it is to “ tread the physical limits of the world.” Mount Everest has long withstood the challenge of man, but man appears as resolute as ever in his assaults on those mighty and treacherous slopes.

In two days and a-haif in Auckland a free exhibition of the Coronation robes and regalia staged at the expence of the Imperial and New Zealand Governments was visited by 50,000 adults and 10,000 school children. The exhibition is now closed, and the regalia and robes will bo shown in the principal centres throughout New Zealand.

The St. Kilda Hotel, at the corner of Bay View and Prince Albert roads, has been bought from Mr 1). P. Wilson by Mr S. Massetti, of Christchurch, at a price in the neighbourhood of £19.000. The north express was half an hour late in leaving this morning through waiting for the arrival of a van of oysters. An unusual incident occurred at a senior football match, Springburn v. Metbven, at Springburn on Saturday. Seven minutes after the second spell had started the referee cautioned a player, whereupon a spectator on the line passed a remark to the referee. The latter ordered the spectator to leave the ground, and meeting with, a refusal blew his whistle and declared the match off.—Ashburton Press Association.

Dr Galway is happily adding to patrons’ knowledge ot organ music by introducing regularly several new works at his recitals. Last night’s appreciative pudience heard three items not previously given on the Town Hall organ—namely, a very vigorous, wide ranging ‘ Postiude in E Flat ’ (Harford Lloyd), a charming andante from a pianoforte sonata by Mozart, and a very modern organ suite by Paul de Maleingreau. This proved particularly intriguing, and was followed with keen interest to its indeterminate final, bar. The great work of the occasion, .however, was Pach’s ‘ Toccata ’ in D Minor ’ (‘ The Honan ’). a magnificent example of the composer’s style, magnificently played. Silas’s ‘Fantasia in E Minor,’ a very bold composition, was another highlight, and by request the city organist revived the ever-popular ‘Henry VHI.’ music (German). Mr Donald. Munro, the vocalist of the occasion, sang Henschel’s ‘ ) oung Dietrich ’ exceedingly well, receiving, too, great assistance from his accompanist, Mrs T. G. Munro. Miss Audrey Kirk played , compr’ieiitJy Chopin’s ‘ Polonaise in A Flat Major.’ On tho eve of the municipal elections, when candidates of every class express their opinions as to what they would be in favour of doing if elected tp the position sought, residents of the north-, end on the higher parts of Clyde' and Forth, streets may be pardoned if they hear with anguish such promises of luxury as additional recreation areas, a highway to the airport, abolition of hose-tap charges, or the provision of better and more swimming baths, when for years, under the present and earlier councils, they, have not been in receipt of an adequate domestic water supply. Despite continual complaints over a number of years, the service has not been improved, and it is no unusual happening on Monday mornings in the summer months for no water at all to be “ on tap.” A week has now passed since the shooting season opened, but so lar sportsmen* have, had little luck in the vicinity of Dunedin. Pnkeko, grey duck, and black swan, which are mostly found in this district,, have been very scarce, cine to tho dry weather .which, lias caused the birds to fly high*. r J hose who went to Poolburn last week, however, met with bettor success, several limit bags of ducks being brought down.

Archbishop Averill conducted confirmation services at Ruawai, Mititai, and Oargavillc yesterday, when the Bishop| pastoral letter was read and all the churches were thronged. At the conclusion of the services a meeting of parishioners passed unanimously a motion protesting against the expressed intention of the Minister of Education to terminate the daily voluntary religious exercises in State Schools. —Dargavillo Association message.