SEASONABLE WORK

Evening Star, Issue 22526, 19 December 1936, Page 23

SEASONABLE WORK

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN Continue to sow for winter use savoys, broccoli, cabbage (Bair’s), and borecole for planting when potatoes and other crops are over. Sowing of peas may be made, but sow an early variety, like Greenfeast. Plant celery and leeks into prepared trenches. THE FLOWER GARDEN Make sowings of wallflowers. The new early dwarf varieties and the new double are well worth growing. Sou' Sweet Williams, Canterbury Bells, polyanthus and primroses,' forget-me-not (Blue Bouquet), Brompton Stocks, and Noonday Iceland poppy for winter cutting. Chrysanthemums should be sprayed with Bordeaux mixture or a weak solution of Jeyes’ fluid will kill any rust germs that may be on the plants. Prevention is better than cure. THE HERBACEOUS BORDER. Those who have the room should certainly make a herbaceous or perennial border in which plants can be had in flower all the. year found. If care is exercised when, planting—that is, by planting all the taller growing varieties at the back, then the medium for the centre, finishing i off with the dwarf growing kinds in the front —one variety will be prevented from covering up .another when in bloom. When planting a perennial border the most important thing is to dig deeply and apply plenty of good animal manure, or, failing this well-rotted garden refuse. This should bo placed in the bottom of the trenches, and just prior to planting a dressing of blood and hone manure should be forked in. If the soil has not been cultivated for some time an application of shell lime should be forked in instead of the blood and bone. The latter can be applied later on. It is also essential that small pieces should be planted, as these make the best clumps. Now_ is the time to make a note of the varieties to suit a particular taste. There are several varieties of plants that could be raised from seed, and would be ready to plant out in the early spring for next summer’s flowering. One of the most beautiful flowering plants for the border is the gloxiniaflowered Pentstemon. These plants seem to thrive under any conditions, but to get the best results the plants should be cut back after flowering, and the growths thinned out to three of four stems to each plant. When growing they should have an application ot liquid manure at intervals. Given in this way the spikes will be double the size of those which are allowed to grow without attention. They do best in an open sunny position, with a well-drained soil. Plenty of space must be allowed to each plant, as they will cover at least two feet of space. After two years it is best to replace them with young plants, which can be raised from seed or propogated by cuttings. Cuttings should be taken off near the base of the old plants, and if removed with a heel of the old wood they will quickly root if placed in a shady position. Plants worked in this way will produce exhibition spikes. Old plants should be broken up and planted when they are dormant. Another beautiful plant is the perennial Phlox Decussata. These beautiful flowering plants continue to _ throw spikes tor a considerable period, especially when placed in positions protected from the afternoon sun and winds. A mistake is often made by allowing the suckers to remain around the plants. These should be cut out immediately, as they weaken the main plant. The clumps should be luted and replanted every third year, and then only small pieces replanted, as these throw the “finest and strongest spikes. In planting, about 3ft between each clump should be allowed, and through the growing season plenty ot water, with liquid manure, etc., to get the best results. The fuchsia, one of the most graceful plants in cultivation, is another that is ideal for the herbaceous border. When planted between other plants, with their graceful formation, they set off all the surrounding plants in a delightful manner. The position should be partially shaded, but that can bo arranged by planting them between taller growing plants. The fuchsia, loves plenty of moisture, and will respond to liberal feeding through the growing period. Plants can be raised by cuttings if taken off in the spring, ihe plants will be ready to put out in tho early summer, as they make rapid growth when rooted. These plants can be trained as standards by allowing the main leader to grow on and removing all the side growths. When the leadei has reached the desired height,_ then the tip should be taken out. Inis will allow the top to break and form a large head, which in time will have a delightful drooping habit. There are some splendid double and single flowering varieties on the market, which are a great iniprovefaient on the oldei kinds. . n , T The cannas, sometimes called Indian shot, make lovely plants, and when placed between fuchsias and many other perennials, they make delightful companions, with their palmlike foliage and brilliant flowers. J am afraid these plants are somewhat neglected in Dunedin and the district If they are started in a cold glasshouse and then hardened off, there are many gardens in Dunedin in which they would be a great success. It has been said that the beautiful foliage plants, the kochia, or lure Bush, would not be a_ success here owing to climatic conditions; hut that is wrong. They have been a great success in many gardens in this district, but, like the canna, the young plants must be thoroughly hardened off before planting out. . To those who are not acquainted with the canna, it may be mentioned that varieties of these plants dark leaf, with dull crimson flowers were planted in the Broadway Arcade last season. There are varieties with flowers as highly coloured as some of the orchids, and very easy to grow. I would advise that the roots he lifted after flowering and placed away, as dahlia tubers, and then restarted in a frame or glasshouse in the spring. They must bo well hardened before planting out. THE FRUIT GARDEN Gooseberries should be thinned, leaving the larger berries for dessert purposes. This also applies to all fruit hanging in bunches of threes or fours.

In thinning leave only the centre fruit to develop. After thinning a watering with liquid.manure should be given. Vinos, after the thinning has been completed, should have a good watering with artificial manure. A change should' be made if possible from previous manures applied. Plenty of ventilation must be given from now on, except on dull, cold days and nights, when only enough air should be given to keep the glass dry. —F.S.P,