SEASONABLE WORK

Evening Star, Issue 22086, 20 July 1935, Page 23

SEASONABLE WORK

TIE VEIETAILE lAMEN Now is the season of the year when many people are considering what potato to grow, and the conclusion the writer of these notes has come to < is that when one has tried a variety which has turned out satisfactorily as to yield and flavour in his own particular plot he should stick to it. I am referring now to those who have small gardens, and who only grow sufficient quantities for an early dish. When one has good results he should not change the varieties. He should concentrate on cultivation, and make a change of seed. \\e hear a lot to-day about certified seed, and no doubt this system will help to a certain extent .in regard to true seed being placed on tlie market, as in the past it was impossible to buy seed potatoes with three or even four different varieties mixed together, liut when we begin to discuss diseases in the tubers which in this country are many, we are up against something whicli I am afraid will not be cleared up very quickly. Although seed may be clean from disease of any kind when purchased, yet that particular variety may when grown become badly affected with any one of potato diseases, for the simple reason that the soil often contains the fungi in a dormant state. A great many of these fungoid diseases can bo kept under by spraying with the Bordeaux mixtures and other sprays, but I would advise those with small gardens not to attempt to make up these sprays themselves, as it is not so easv as some would have us believe. Then one has to obtain utensils to mix them in, because Bordeaux mixture must not be made up m metal containers of any kind. It is mucxi easier to obtain the powder from the seedmen. Again, most of the cioips crown in small gardens are dug and consumed long before many of the diseases take effect on the tubers. The following varieties have been tested in and around Dunedin, and have given good yields for early crops: —Catriona, Jersey Beniies, Snowdrop (sometimes named Witch Hill). Km? Edward, and Ideal. I noticed a variety has been placed on the market that 1 know well—Bobbie’s Early Midlothian. This is much j earlier than any of the above. It is a round potato with a shallow eye and white flesh. The hauhfi is very sturdy, and it is a splendid variety for forcing purposes. The writer grew this variety under glass and outside in England over 20 years ago, and it will be interesting.to watch its success or otherwise in tins district.

THE QUEEH OF FLGWERS-THE ROSE Now is the time to plant new beds of roses- or renovate with new up-to-date varieties, although many of the older kinds can still hold their own in colour and certainly in perfume. Ihe scent of many of the newer varieties has not the least resemblance to the delightful fragrance of. the moss rose and those lovely old roses. La France, Jules Magoten. and others. The hybridists have certainly improved the formation of petal and constitution in many coses, and with numerous varieties it is possible to bloom them nine months of the year. There, is no doubt that the rose may be cultivated in any garden. The principal needs are rich soil and abundance of light, air, and moisture, and with ordinary care and attention the plants will produce beautiful blooms. Where there is plenty of space at one’s disposal the sunniest and most sheltered positions should be chosen. Never plant roses where the roots of trees, shrubs, etc., can reach the soil in which they are planted. If so the roses’will be robbed of the food which should be supplied for their special benefit. Roses must have a soil that is well dug and rich in plant foods. Wellrotted horse manure is the best for heavy ground. The coarse texture of the manure will help to render the soil more open and warmer. On no account must the manure be used when fresh or new. For light soils, cow or pig manure is the best, and this, should bo allowed to rot before digging in for immediate planting. This manure, being finer in texture, will help to bind the particles of loose soil together and also assist to retain the moisture, if those manures cannot be obtained, the following makes a good substitute Collect all the decayed, leaves and vegetable rubbish and dig in deeply', and before planting a good dressing or lime (shell! should be worked into the From now on roses should be pruned: but where a garden is exposed to cold winds pruning should not be done until next month. The reason for pruning should be understood before commencing to cut. With many varieties of roses the plant makes much more growth than it can carry to produce first-class flowers, and if allowed to grow without pruning for a second season it will grow to twice or even three times its size, and its hungry branches would be such a tax on its strength that the results would be inferior flowers. The pruning is to keep down the number of growths to a reasonable limit. . If you require especially choice blooms* for exhibition you must prune so that only a few strong growths remain. The plant then concentrates all its strength on them and the buds that will Inter arise from them, If for garden decoration, then more growths must be allowed to develop, and the pruning is less severe. If required to cover up an unsightly corner, etc., then more growths must lie retained to increase the size of the bush. With weak-growing varieties, if the bush is making a large number of growths these should be pruned harder than those varieties which grow more vigorously. The reason for this is the fact that the roots of the weak-growing

varieties have a smaller number of gtowths to draw the strength from. Of course, the class the rose 1 belongs to must be taken into consideration when pruning. . . . Apart from the climbing varieties, there are three classes —hybrid perpetuals, hybrid teas, and teas. Hybrid perpetuals should be cut back harder than hybrid teas, and these can be pruned more severely than the teas. The following are hybrid teas: —Caroline Testout, Captain Kilbee Stuart, Betty Upricliard, Dame Edith Helen, Emma Wright, George Dickson, and Golden Gleam. Hybrid Perpetuals are: Hugh Dickson, Frau Karl Druskki, Mrs Shaman Crawford, Victor Hugo, and Captain Hayward. , r , Teas: Lady Hillington, Madam Hoste, Mrs Herbert Stevens, Marie Van Houte, and Catherine Mermet. The above are just a few examples which one may be guided by. The pruning should be done by using only a very sharp pair of secateurs, always being careful that a dean cut is made. The first thing that should bo cut out is all dead and diseased wood. Then all old growths must be taken out from the base as closely as possible. The next thing is to cut above a bud pointing away from the middle of the bush. This will enable the growth that will arise from the bud later to grow outwards to the light and air. The next thing is to make a cut in an outward and slanting direction, leaving a clean-cut surface. Never leave a jagged cut or crush the end of the wood, as this will mean the wood dying back, and decay very often will set in. Cut as near the bud as possible without injuring it. The best plan is to cut off the growth of each leader above the second or third bud, providing the bud is pointing outwards. Bushes that have been planted from the autumn on should be pruned later than the established bushes, and then pruned hard back when they show signs of breaking. Standard roses should be pruned more severely than bush roses, whether they are hvbrid perpetuals or hybrid tea varieties, or they will grow into long, straggling growths, and these will often be broken off by the wind. The Polyantha rose should bo allowed to have about 6in of last year’s wood. In this way the bush becomes men* compact in form. All primings should be gathered up and burnt. This will help to destroy many of the pests that have been harbouring in the old wood, etc. F.S.P.