SEASONABLE WORK

Evening Star, Issue 21630, 27 January 1934, Page 23

SEASONABLE WORK

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN Generally speaking this season is very hot and dry, but the .reverse is very: apparent this year which has given opportunity for* getting in our winter crops. Where this is incomplete no time should be lost in getting the work done. Those that have got such crops in as previously advised will find, them growing away at a great rate. Keep them growing by the frequent use of. both hoe and rake. By this, one is killing two . birds with the one stone, stimulating the growth of the plants and destroying weeds. Early potatoes - that are well forward and the tops beginning to turn yellow should be lifted. The seed or set size may be separated and placed in shallow boxes and the useful sizes bagged or stored i away and used as required. The lifting and handling of early potatoes should be done with care to avoid rubbing or breaking the skin more than can be helped. They will soon ripen and harden their' skins, almost as well in store as outside. The vacant ground will then be found usefhl to complete the planting of winter and spring crops. I have always advocated (and still do), the importance of trenching vacant ground early. Do not delay this until winter where it can be done in autumn. Not only will it improve the ground, but destroy many of the grub and insect posts which would otherwise escape. Dispose of spent crops as they appear. Cabbage stumps in particular if left in the ground exhaust it to no good. Stake peas as they arc ready also late sown runner beans. -

Earth up early celery by tying the tops’ not .to -firmly. Remove side shoots if any, and earth them up like celery when the soil is moist so that it will not crumble and fall away which it is very likely to do if the work is done when the ground is hot and dry. Plant cabbages of the winter or drum-head kind, also brussels sprouts, snd late savoys. , 'Plant cauliflowers: from last month’s sowing. ■■' : ■ Continue to plant leeks' either in trenches or. deeply dug and well manured ground. Take up and dry garlic and shallots. Sew parsley for winter use, and lettuce, radish, and mustard and cress for. salading. ‘• Sow (green or purple top turnips, also spinach, using the prickly spinach for: this sowing.

STRAWBERRIES

The. weather of' late has been ideal for growth and the planting of strawberries, and those who have their ground prepared should take the first opportunity to get the” plants in. The sooner‘ the -plants’, arc ,in the cttanee good-- cifop-rof -frulte the first'season. There isj and always has been*, a difference of opinion as to the best time to plant strawberries — autumn or spring. 1 have no hesitation whatever in favour of autumn planting for more reasons than one. Secure. if possible the first plants on each runner. As to the varieties to grow, there are many good sorts such as Etti burgh, Madam Mills, Sir J. Paxton, Laxtons Noble, and others. It is usually a practice to plant eighteen inches to two feet in the row, and two feet six between the rows, but in the case of the Ettesburgh variety it should have more,. as it is known as the tree strawberry. It grows larger and requires more room. If the ground is good give move room, there is no advantage in over crowding. In my young days in the Homeland great quantities of strawberries were grown in pots under glass, and very fine crops of fruit were secured. Those who have li glass house and the inclination, might try this plan. It becomes very interesting and profitable as one gains experience, but

plants for this purpose have to be raised or rooted in small three-inch pots which are filled with rich sandy loan and plunged in the soil up to the rim of the pot. Then the first strong runner is pressed down -into the soil and fastened with small wooden hooks. Should the weather be dry, water occasionally. In about three weeks they will be well rooted. Then cut the runner, lift the pot. and turn it out and repot into six-inch pots, using for this potting rich sandy loan with a little good old manure added. Then place them in a cold frame to grow on until winter, at which time they arc taken into the greenhouse and. placed on shelves in the full light and fairly near the glass. Very interesting* is this work and often very remunerative, but the plants must not suffer for want of water or attention. Plants taken up and sold in the usual way are not suitable for pot culture or fruit growing under glass.

THE GREENHOUSE

Cinerarias and calceolarias seed may be sown, the former to come into flower for late winter or early spring. Begonias should he in fine flower now, and should be carefully attended to by way of watering and removing faded flowers and dead leaves. As the season of ripening the tubers advances less and less watering should be given, until they are dried off altogether. When the tops are properly ripened off they will fall off or come away from he tuber and leave it quite sound and firm. \lt should then be stored in some dry* cool place away from severe frost for the* winter. One of my readers brought a green plant of begonia around to me last winter, wondering what to do with it.

Pelergoniums that have done flowering should be gradually ripened off before cutting or heading back to the ripe wood near the base of each branch. Then place them outside, laying them on their sides, so that excessive rains or moisture cannot enter the pots. When they have broken into growth and made leaves |in long they should be shaken out and potted up into fresh turfy loam mixture and placed back on the bench in the greenhouse, and grown on in the usual way. The pots for this potting should be a size smaller than the one it came out of,-*so that it can be potted on as required. This is a good time to strike the cuttings, four oi five of which can be placed around the sides of a 4in pot. After they are rooted, pot them up singly in •3Jin pots and grow on. After potting, water only moderately or only when water is wanted. Prick out seedling cinerarias as soon as they are sufficiently strong to handle into 3m pots, but do not leave them a day longer in these small pots than sufficient time to fill these with roots, or they will commence to send up flowering shoots, after which it will be impossible to grow them into good specimen plants. Better shift them into 4in pots, and from these to their flowering pots. Six-inch pots will grow quite good-sized specimens, but if very large plants are desired 'give them the'Sin size for their final shift. Remove all faded flowers and dead leaves as they appear on greenhouse plants. Generally at this season of the year they require a lot of attention by way of watering and keeping them clean and free from dead leaves, faded flowers, and insect pests, such as thrips and green aphis. On the first appearance of these fumigate at once with nicotocicle, XL ale, or tobacco.

THE VINERY

Continue the work of stopping or pinching outside shoots as previously advised. These shoots should be kept pinched out right through the season. There is no advantage in leaving these to accumulate, even after the fruit is ripe. This is about the time to give the inside border its final watering with either liquid manure or clear water. Give plenty of ventilation from now onward.

ANSWERS

, “ Tapanui.”—The ’ name of the flower forwarded is plagianthus lyalli—a native tree or shrub belonging to the lace bark or ribbonwood tree. It makes a very fine display of showy white flowers.

“ Amateur ' —The tomato forwarded is affected with black spot, a fungoid disease piercing right into the heart and ultimately affecting the whole' fruit. There is no real cure for it. A preventative is by spraying with summer formula of Bordeaux mixture early in the season—not now. Pick off and destroy every effected tomato as it appears. Give plenty of fresh air and not too much water.