THE GARDEN

Evening Star, Issue 20510, 14 June 1930, Page 28

THE GARDEN

SEASONABLE WORK

“ Cottage Gardener.”—l will touch upon sweet peas next week. 1 can deal more fully then on this subject than T could in a ehort reply in tho spaco available. “A.C.N.”—I do not think the seed forwarded is a shrub at all, but Lunaria, commonly called Honesty. I know of no shrub with similar seeds. Sow the seed iu spring, or have you got it growing? “Plundered Soil.” —Phosphate and superphosphate are not quite tho same'. Other ingredients are added to make superphosphate, the latter being a little more expensive—phosphates 12 parts, potash 8 parts, and nitrates 3 parts. As stated in my last notes, 2oz per square yard is strong enough for tomato growing. Common lime should not be mixed with any manure, but bo used separately on tho surface aud worked in. H.C. FEED YOUR PLANTS MANURES THEY REQUIRE The question of correcting feeding and nourishing plants is one that 'is frequently puzzling to those who have no knowledge of chemistry or botany and cannot afford the necessary time to go into the matter, thoroughly. The object of these notes is to set out briefly and as simply as possible some of tho salient points to be noted in the manuring of garden crops and to give a few suggestions for the correct feeding of certain common vegetables (writes Leonard A,' Griffiths, in tho ‘Hawke’s Bay Tribune ’). Three of tho chief plant foods are nitrates, phosphates, and _ .potash. Nitrates promote luxuriant foliage of a rich green tinge; phosphates increase the size of tho fruit and ensure early ripening; while potash improves quality and increases the flavour of fruit and root crops. ; To use substances containing these foods, therefore, tho gardener must have a definite idea of the end in view. Cabbages, for instance, are cultivated solely for their edible leaves, not for fruit or root, aud so their nourishment must contain a preponderance of nitrates. That is not to say that one class of plants uses ono food to the exclusion of all others, which would, of course, be ridiculous, but simply that certain plants require certain salts in greater proportions than others. Farmyard manure contains all three of the foods already mentioned, and regular dressings are the basis of all successful cultivation. Artificial manures contain only ono or two of these ingredients. Nitrates are supplied by using sulphate of ammonia and nitrate of soda. The former is long retained by the soil, and can be applied iu winter or spring; the latter being easily washed out, must bo given in small doses as required. . Phosphates can ho provided quickly by the uso of bono meal and superphosphates, which, by tho way, is caustic, and should bo kept from leaf and stem. Steamed bono flour is another quick-acting phosphatic manure, and, as it can be absorbed almost immediately is useful for dusting in seed drills and for addition to potting composts. Potash is found in all garden soils which have been well cultivated and supplied with animal, manure. It is. locked up in the soil, however, and needs dressings of lime to render it available to plants. For this reason one authority refers to lime as “ the foundation of fertility,” a slogan worth remembering. Application.—Potatoes are gross feeders, and should respond to liberal treatment. Farmyard manure should be applied to the ground at the rate of four barrow-loads to about forty square yards. If that cannot be obtained dress the land with steamed bono flour previous to planting, and at planting time add sulphate of ammonia./ Brussels sprouts, cauliflowers, cabbages, and others of that tribe are likewise gross feeders. Enrich tho ground with plenty of manure or decaying leaves, etc!, and stimulate the plants with doses of sulphate of ammonia when growth commences. If the cabbages fail to heart satisfactorily or the turnips to “ bulb ” phosphates,aro lacking, and the trouble can bo remedied if a quick-acting phosphatic manure is added.

THE VINERY PRUNING. . Vines ; should now be sufficiently ripe to have shed their leaves, after which the sooner they are pruned the better, as it gives, the vines a longer period for the wounds to thoroughly heal up .before sap begins to flow iu spring. Late pruning is a bad practice, as there is always a danger of the vines bleeding, with a strong flow of sap, if the cuts have not thoroughly healed. The best way to prune vines is to cut ail the I strings and lower the vines to the I so that they may bo more cou--1 veniently handled, as they not only require pruning, but also an overhaul by way of pulling off all loose bark. This bark. stripping should not be carried to excess. All ■ that is required is to pull away all the loose bark around tho ‘old spurs and down the canes. It is easier to scrap© off this loose bark around the spurs with an old table or pocket knife. But all pruning should be done first, and to do this successfully one must have good sharp tools—a sharp pruning knife and pair, of pruners, and where the vines are old a finetooth saw may be required to cut away old dead spurs or side arms. Tho saw will'not be required if the vines are young. When the saw is used take care to smooth off the saw cute with a .sharp,knife. ; In, pruning vines cut back to the first plump eye on tho yo.ung growth next to the old wood on tho spur. Tho sharp blade should enter immediately beyond the bud, and have a downward cut as it were with the grain of the wood. Never give an upper cut and against the grain. To do this would probably cause a ragged cut; that is, if one looked carefully into it one would see a lot of minute cracks running across the end where the knife had passed through. It is such cuts_ that cause bleeding when the sap begins to flow in spring.- In nearly all cases bleeding is caused by such pruning. Prune then to the first suitable eye pointing outwards. It sometimes happens that the eye is pointing downward from the under part of the shoot, or it may be a curved shoot with the eye pointing directly inward. If so prune to the next eye. Never leave two eyes where it can be avoided, as long pruning causes long spurs, ana if this long pruning were carried on for a few years these spurs on the side arms would become so long that there would not be sufficient room for Jhe foliage to expand; that is, if the vines were planted at the proper distance apart; hence the waste of valuable space, to the detriment of the vines'or at least of tho crop. When ail the pruning and cleaning are completed rake and sweep' up all clippings, leaves, and old bark, and burn them. Whore there has been mildew or signs of mildew in tho previous season remove all the if any, from the vinery and sweep off some of the surface soil and fumigate the vinery with common sulphur by closing all the ventilators and doors. Then place some hot coals in an old iron pan or tin and cover with powdered sulphur. It will burn and soon fill the house with fumes that will destroy mildew or any green or live plant life. If there are plants growing in pots put them iu some other quarters for a day. It is also a good safeguard against pests and also a good preventive for mildew to paint the vines (over eyes and all) with a dressing of clay and cow manure and slb powdered sulphur all mixed together in water until it is the thickness of paint. Then paint all over the vines eyes and all. THE ROSE GARDEN Assuming that tho beds or ground for planting roses have been properly prepared and are ready to receive tho plants, the work may bo put in hand. There should be no hesitation about planting tho roses fairly close to each other—2oin apart or 2ft at the most. Beginners are apt to make mitakes in this respect. When planted too far apart they are exposed too much to all the weather changes, especially heavy winds and hot sun. When planted fairly close ono protects tho other from the hot sun, drying winds, and other extremes. But, of course, they must be pruned accordingly. In ' nine eases out of ten, when roses are planted too far apart, they are never pruned as hard as they should be, consequently they age very quickly and in a short time tho blooms arc only second or third rate. When planting commence with the strong growing kind for the centre row, with, growers for tho second and weaker kinds for tho front. By this alb will receive their fair share of light and air. The depth to plant will depend upon the nature of the . ground or soil. With heavy or stiff soils the roots should not be covered more than 6in; with light soils 7in or Sin, and even 9in in very light, dry ground. The object should bo to have tho junction of the stock an inch or two under the surface. By this moans tho bush is more steady, aud in time tho scion at the top of the stock will send out roots and give more support and assistance to the bush. In digging a hole to plant the rose in let it bo sufficiently large to allow the roots to be spread ouj without bending or doubling them. The centre of the hole should bo higher than at the sides—like a saucer upside down—so that tho roots have a slight downward tendency. Never allow the roots to come into direct contact with manure. Should manure be exposed when digging the hole cover it with some fresh soil. Make the soil firm about the roots. Should the ground bo wet, defer planting until tho conditions are more favourable. In light soils make them quite firm at tho planting. With heavy soils firm the soil about the roots and leave the final filling in to-settle itself. ANSWERS “Maori Hll.” —The pear forwarded is badly affected with pear scab. When scab attacks thp skin of an applo or pear it becomes hard and dry; therefore it cannot swell or stretch as the fruit grows; consequently it must crack. You ask what can bo done. Iu tho first place, the variety is no good. It is not worth worrying about. Tho only thing in this case is either to cut it back to the lower forks and_ graft a good kind upon it, or root it out altogether. I have regrafted many of these old trees, and they proved quite a success.' Now is tho time to cut it back, and graft in the spring. Collect the scion or cuttings for grafting, and heel them in the ground until spring.

]?eas and beans will produce bumper crops if steamed bono flour is hoed into the soil at the rate of 2oz per yard. These plants do not require nitrogenous material, as they manufacture their own from air and soil, and, indeed, I slave tho ground richer than before. The ground in which it is intended to grow onions, leeks, or celery should be liberally supplied with manure and artificials, such as sulphate of ammonia ;and steamed bono flour, applied after growth has begun. Should tho soil bo light, common salt may be applied at the rate of loz per square yard. If farmyard manure is used with carrots, beet, or parsnips, rough and forked roots will bo obtained, therefore steamed bone flour should bo given when tho seed bed is prepared and sulphate of ammonia or nitrate of soda after tho crop has been thinned. RHUBARB The present is a good time to transplant oi establish new rhubarb beds, and the old clumps may now bo subdivided. The roots should bo spaced 3ft apart each way, which is not too mucli room to allow the plants to fully develop during summer When making a new bod it is advisable to have both an early and a late variety in order to prolong the season, as rhubarb is always welcome as part of the household dietary As rhubarb takes some little time to re-establish itself aftei transplanting, it is bettor to subdivjdo halt,the old stock at the one time. ; To grow it well tho ground should be well worked, and should be prepared some time* previously in anticipation of the removal, in order to get well below the fibrous roots. The old long docklike roots may bo shortened some distance from tho clump, and, in fact, it is desirable to remove any broken or damaged roots in order to prevent decay. Bplifc the chimp up into its many portions as are desired, and plant 3ft apart each.way.

WOSCK BOM. THE WEEK*

amltiftofrr. • weStfaxmo gardener, wSJ be glad to answer questions, •wbidi mart be resawed vsoi later than Tuesday <& each week. ‘jlfwi fTwnli <1 Sat IhSm. arfnwm mmt bo handed ia te tha a£Eh» before 2 ?-*• Friday.

EVERGREEN SHRUBS

Taken as a whole, evergreen shrubs are more difficult to handle than deciduous species on account of the fact that they are always more or less active. Even in the depths of winter the leaves transpire a certain amount of moisture. Many, if transplanted then, would suffer severely before their roots took hold of the soil afresh, [t is for this reason that late planting is advised for all such subjects as yew, holly, evergreen oak, and arbutus. Rhododendrons, andromedas, and heaths, also laurels, aucubas, and specimens of Viburnum tinus that have been frequently transplanted in nursery beds, will lift with a good root-ball, and may, therefore, be safely handled a good deal earlier. Wall shrubs, such as ceanothus, azara, choisya, and escallonia can frequently be purchased in pots, which makes planting a simple matter, as these may simply be cracked and removed without disturbing the roots. As a general rule, the more exacting evergreen shrubs should not be transplanted till November, while easier-going species can safely be established early in October. Rhododendrons, because of the dense mass of fibrous roots which they naturally make, may even bo transplanted m mid-winter without suffering great harm, but September is a better season. and also a suitable time for establishing pot-grown plants. Where much planting has to be done It is a good plan to deal with the various shrubs an rotation, handling the most accommodating first, and leaving hollies, yews, and evergreen oaks until the last. But whether many or few are to bo planted, the gardener will be well advised to place his orders early, as good samples aro never over-plentiful, and money spent upon untrnnsplanted specimens might just as well bo thrown away. Every effort should be made to retain as much soil around the roots as possible. With young trees that have been lifted and replanted every year, and have consequently made a large number of fibrous roots, this is not a difficult matter, but older bushes that have remained undisturbed for several years present a real problem. Where they are only to be moved from one part of the garden to another much may be done with the aid of a low, four-wheeled trolley on to which the specimen may be lifted bodily and wheeled to its new site with the minimum amount of disturbance.

[n tho case of evergreen shrubs planted as late as the end of November or early in December, some difficulty may bo experienced should a hot, dry. spell follow. Mulching will ameliorate matters to a certain extent, but, rather than allow the foliage and young wood to wither and shrivel it will be necessary to remove some of the leaves. This will reduce the demands made for moisture upon the roots. In extreme cases, it may bo necessary to denude the tree of as much as half its foliage. HYDRANGEAS Hydrangeas are among the most interesting of plants to cultivate, owing to their habit of changing colour (writes “ Lorna,” in the ‘ Manawatu Daily Times ’). At this time of tho year those plants' which perchance are pink, and you would like to turn blue, should be treated to a few ounces of alum or sulphate of iron. The pink bushes will deepen in hue if given a liberal dressing of lime. Hydrangeas make charming low growing shrubs, and are also ideal for growing in barrels. Some interesting and valuable varieties are now obtainable, many of them with much larger individual flowers than the older type, while a double variety has also appeared on tho market. Most gardeners have had interesting experiences with these plants. One the writer has in mind had two pink plants which were for tho start grown in pots. After they had finished blooming they were set out in a sheltered spot in the garden. They bloomed the next year and were still pink, but gradually turned to the most gorgeous blue without any effort on the owner’s part, whose only solution seems to be that the plants are growing near a rain water barrel with tho usual iron hoops, and the rust form those must in some way have been driven into the soil. Some gardeners aver that a shady, moist spot tends to turn hydrangeas blue, but the shadiest and wettest spot in the writer’s garden produces bright pink heads. With so many new shades among tho novelties, tho tones of blue and pink also vary when treated. _ Purplish blues and mauvy pinks, combined with all intermediate shadings in these colours, will result from experiments made with iron, alum, and lime. CLEMATIS MONTANA RUBRA Those who require a trailing plant for a pergola or archway will find a suitable subject in the above clematis. It will not provide too dense a shade, and does not need pruning. The somewhat unusual soft pink colouring is attractive, and if a group of the ordinary blue flag iris can be placed near by, tho effect is very line, as they bloom at tho same period. This small-flowered clematis is wonderfully free blooming, and grows rapidly, the flowers being about the same size as the native clematis, and like the latter, will grow at the foot of trees, running riot among the branches. Clematis montana is a good white companion to montana rubens. Where climbers of this nature are planted over pergolas, a suitable spot is gained beneath for the growing cl primroses and other plants which thrive in partial shade. Many of our creepers provide too dense a shade for the successful growing of these fragrant spring blooms. -