THE GARDEN IN FEBRUARY

Evening Post, Volume CXXIII, Issue 29, 4 February 1937, Page 20

THE GARDEN IN FEBRUARY

VEGETABLES AND FLOWERS

In normal seasons February is one of the driest months of the year, but if the summer continues as present we shall be able to grow watercress on our best-drained beds. Should the weather be as it ought, then very little planting can be done, but should rain come the planting of cabbages, cauliflowers, and other winter greens may be completed. " Vegetables which; may be sown this month are lettuces and radishes, turnips, spinach, silver beet, French beans, and mustard and cress. It will be necessary to keep the seed beds moist at all times, otherwise the newly-germinated seeds may be killed. Tomatoes should be sprayed with Bordeaux mixture once every three weeks, and at this season it is advisable to add arsenate of lead to the spray to get rid of the caterpillars which often cause damage to the ripening fruit. Tomatoes should be starting to ripen up outside, and all side growths should be ■ removed as may also some of the larger leaves where they are shading the fruit clusters—the plants must not be entirely denuded of foliage, however. Potatoes should be lifted as soon as they are mature, as if left in the warm, moist soil they are liable to start into growth and be spoilt. Onions are ready for lifting as soon as the tops commence to turn yellow. They should be left lying on the surface till they are thoroughly dry—turning them to ensure them drying all round, after which they may be stored in a dry, airy place till required-for use. Any vacant plots may be dug over, receive a dressing of super and be sown down in blue lupin for digging in later. . Gather up all rubbish and for preference burn it. At this time of year insect pests and various diseases are liable to be on plants or harbouring in rubbish and burning is the best way to: prevent their spreading. The ashes from a rubbish fire make very excellent manure for any part of the garden. . ■~.,.. ~ . . . In the flower garden many plants are liable to be attacked by mildew. Dusting with Flowers of Sulphur will check the trouble. Choose hot, sunny days for this work. Keep dahlias growing by giving copious waterings once a week; Liquid manure is also useful. Hemove all dead flowers unless it is intended to save seed, and hi the latter case only retain main stems and just as many as will G r Attend to the staking of tall plants which are liable to be blown down. Tie at intervals as the stems grow. Weeds run to seed very rapidly at this season. Keep the hoe going and so stop their growth before they drop seeds.

sometimes called sterilisation, simply means the placing of dormant bulbs in water heated and maintained at a temperature of 110 deg. Fahr. The length of treatment is invariably three hours, but some growers increase the period to as long as four hours, the duration depending upon the size of the bulbs treated. This treatment effectively kills both eelworm and bulb mite if properly carried out.

At the first sign of the trouble any affected bulbs should be lifted with apparently healthy bulbs immediately surrounding them and with each a spadeful of. soil should be removed. The bulbs should be destroyed and the soil burnt.

Burn all dead foliage on the beds as soon as it dies off. The pests are carried over from year to year in the dead foliage.

The foregoing information is extracted from an article in a recent issue of an Australian journal.