DEFEAT ADMITTED

Evening Post, Volume CXXI, Issue 141, 16 June 1936, Page 9

DEFEAT ADMITTED

EVEREST CLIMBERS

"NOT A SINGLE CHANCE"

NEW ROUTE FOUND

United Trcsa Association— By Elcctric Tcleisrapb—Copyright. (Received June 16, 12.20 p.m.) LONDON, June 15. In a copyright message from Camp 1, Mr. Hugh Ruttlcdgc, leader of the Everest Expedition, says: "The expedition must -now depart. Deep snow lies everywhere, rendering a further effort useless, although Messrs. Smythc and Wyn Harris have discovered a route which I am convinced will be of great value on a future occasion. Unhappily it has been made in a season in * whicn Everest has not given us a single chance.

"Seven climbers who ascended the icefall on the west side of the North Col were prevented from examining the upper slope by clouds. Already there is evidence that the monsoon is so severe and the snow so deep that Everest is uncllmbable this year. Messrs. Smythe and Wyn Harris yesterday took advantage of a temporary lull to take a light camp to a point previously attained jflst out of reach of avalanches, which are constantly pouring off the North Col. A rush of air from one avalanche nearly blew down their tent during the night. This morning they obtained a clear view of the slopes to the crest, and although the snow was too dangerous for them to make an ascent they were satisfied that, given certain conditions, a safer and more direct route could be made on this side. J "Mr. Smith Windham and I, with porters, went up the icefall and formed a similar opinion."

WORLD REGRETS. Sir Percy Cox, chairman of the Everest committee, commenting on this telegram, says that the committee's regret will be shared by Britons throughout the world, as the conquest of Mount Everest has become a national enterprise on which all hearts are set. The splendid composition and equipment of the expedition justified every hope as far as human agencies were concerned, but the early monsoon and heavy' snowfall, by preventing reoccupation of the North Col, which originally was occupied with unusual ease a week ahead of schedule, produced impossible conditions which no previous expedition had ever sufferedi The committee is telegraphing to Mr. Ruttledge sympathising with his lamentable ill-fortune, recognising that no leadership and mountaineering skill could have averted the result, and congratulating the members on emerging from critical experiences without a casualty.