A MIGHTY SCENE

Evening Post, Volume CIX, Issue 125, 30 May 1930, Page 9

A MIGHTY SCENE

STAGE OF ADVENTURE

VENERATED MOUNTAIN

Journey north from Calcutta for 350 miles <across the flat plain« of .Bengal |'"i] «n to tho top of the first ridge of i Himalayan foothills and you come,- at ■ jyurjcuung on the northern edge of British India, to a mountain picture | unsurpassed on this planet, writes 11. L. Bobbins in the'"New York Times." Darjeeling rests on a northwardpointing spur of that first foothill ridge. Below the spur on west, north, and east .art! the river galleys of SikKiM, 0000 feet deep. Across these val- J leys and across range after range of j wooded hills, with other deep valleys between them you look to the eternal snows of earth's noblest mountain chain. I. This hunured-mile amphitheatre that lies before you, this "crumpled world" is the scene of the greatest j'scientific and sporting adventure now afoot: tho attempt of the Dyhrenfurth | expedition to climb Kinchenjunga. The expedition is international, and so is the panorama seen from Darjceling, as if it were too sublime for a single country to contain.

In the north, forty-five miles away, stands Kinehenjunga, spreading its ramparts for leagues into Sikkim and Nepa-l and lifting its hoary head more than 28,000 feet into the blue. Northwest, and twico as far distant, looking down over the shoulders of nearer peaks, Everest is the highest mountain, between Nepal and Tibet.

Europeans, although they have hnd a foothold in India for thrde centuries, have let the Himalayas and the lands beyond them remain largely blank on the maps. There have been political and religious barriers' that were almost as hard to surmount as the peaks themselves. Native surveyors disguised as monks and merchants have charted parts of. the region at the risk of their lives. The Nopaiese, in permitting tho present expedition to pass through their country along the eastern border, have broken a precedent. Always heretofore they have kept explorers away from the snow range along a 500-mile front. Isolated Tibet has never opened tho gates to tho mountain except between 1921 and 1924, when it allowed the British to approach Everest from tho north! Since then they have been closed. Tibetan politics might still be mollified, for Lhasa has been on friendly terms with Delhi since tho breakdown of monarchy in China. Tibetan- religion, however, has a stronger voice iii the decision. Did not the British'assault on Everest cost many lives? Therefore the gods of the mountain resent these invasions. Lhasa turns thumbs down and busily whirls a prayer wheel, hoping that the disturbed gods will be propitiated. WORSHIP OP THE PEAKS,, Awe-compelling these mountains are beyond any other objects on earth. The earliest peoples of India worshipped them. Their theologians could picture no grander hub for tho universe than the mythical mountain, Meru. It rose 80,000 leagues in air somewhere north of Kinchinjunga; sun, moon, and stars moved around it, and tho gods dwelt on its summit. Before Alexander came conquering to Indus, the devout of the plains had journeyed to the mountains for years untold. To the mountains still they trudge, and numbers of' them stay as hermits to finish their days in chill caverns beside the wildest glaciers, fed or not by pilgrims and by the holy men of cloud-wrapped abbeys and sleeping stone coffins. The mountains are symbols of the lofty serenity of soul that. they aspire to attain. ( Tlie day when Kiuchinjunga is venerated is a great day in Sikkim. Professor Nicholas Roerich describes it in his book, "Shambhala." He writes: "Trumpets are roaring. The drums beat. The crowd shouts and whistles. Enters the Protector of Sikkim, in a huge red and gold mask, with a short spear in his hand. Around the fountain, from which the sacred water is drawn each morning, the impressive Protector of Sikkim turns about in a slow benevolent dance, completing his niagie circles. In each monastery in Sikkim, at the same hour, the same sacred dance of the Protector is being performed. Finishing his role, the Protector joins the picturesque file of musicians. ■ ' "Again sound the trumpets and tho roar of the crowd. Then the Protectress emerges from the temple. As a Kali or Dakini, with skulls adorning her head, in dark garment, the deity outlines the same circle; after performing her invocation, she also seats herself beside the Protector. TREASURES OP THE MOUNT. "Again tho crowd shouts and cries. One by one the Protectors of the five Treasures of Kinchinjunga emerge. They- are ready to iight for the Holy Mountain, because in its caves all treasures are guarded for centuries. They are ready to guard the religion which is supported by the hermits, who send their benevolent blessings from mountain depths. Radiant are the streamers on 'the garments of these Guardians. . They glisten as snows glowing in the rays of the sun. They aro ready to fight. They are armed with swords and protected with round shields. "Begins tho dance of tho Warriors. Tho swords are brandished in the air; guns are fired. The population of Sikkim may rejoice—beholding how the treasures of Kinchinjunga are guarded. They may be proud—never yet has the rocky summit of this White Mountain been conquered! Only exalted keepers of the Mysteries, high Dcvas, know tho path to the summit. "Now is tho power of Kinchinjunga disclosed in another way. One sees bows and arrows in tho hands of the people. Tho old joy of Sikkim—the ancient art of archery—is to be demonstrated. Far off are thp targets. But the hillmen still know tho noble art and tho arrows still reach the heart of the mark, as they shall roach the'hearts of Kinehinjimga's enemies. "And when wo see tho beautiful snowy peak, we understand tho spirit of the festival, because veneration of beauty is the basis of this exalted feeling-. The hill-people feel beauty. They feel a sincere pride in possessing those unrepeatable snowg peaks..'.!