INTO WINTER

Evening Post, Volume CIX, Issue 119, 22 May 1930, Page 25

INTO WINTER

FAVOURABLE CONDITIONS

STILL WORK FOR THE

GARDENER

ANSWERS TO COKHESPOis'DENTS.

L.H., Mastcrton.—The celery leaves sent appeared to bo affected with "Rust," although they were too dried up to determine definitely. At tho first Appearance of the- troublo all affected leaves should bo taken off and the plants sprayed with Bordeaux mixture. It is a good plan to give the plants a spraying once every three weeks to keep them ■ healthy, and as a preventive. "Kust" is a. fungoid disease, hard to control onco It gets a hold. You would bo wiso to pull up all affected plants and burn them, and before using1 the ground again to use a soil fumlgant to destroy any spores which may have fallen. Jeyes soil fumigant !s claimed to destroy any diseases of this Kind.

J.M., Tawa Flat.—There is a patent substitute for glass called "Celloglass." Its advantaßes are that it ia very light, easily fixed— merely requiring to be tacked on to the frames —and that it is less llahlo to be broken. A"alnst these advantages must be put the fact that it does not last very long—about three years—before the wires, rust, after which it very soon becomes useless. The price is -very much the same as for glass.

The heavy rain 1-st week-end has once niorp given'the soil a good soaking. There is still considerable warmth hi the ground, and, given, normal conditions, quite a lot of growth may be expected for the next month. ..Although wo aro into winter according to the calendar, we rarely get real winter weather until the end of Juno. While soil conditions aro favourable every effort should be mado to get planting done, especially the planting of trees and shrubs of all kinds. If they can bo got in before the middle of next month they have every chanco to.make new roots and become established beforo the soil boeomes quite cold. If planting is delayed till later, the plants remain dormant until the soil warms up again in the; spring, and growth is accordingly later. The lifting, dividing up, and replanting of most perennial plants is best done at this 3eason. In most cases it is" best' to dig the plants right out and to thoroughly work and recondition the. . ground,, by manuring and deep digging before replanting;

Such plants as Michaelmas daisies, helcniurns, phloxes, etc., more than repay for dividing up each year, as they spread rapidly and very soon exhaust the soil. The best of the young growths from the butsido edges of tho clumps only should be used for replanting, the old, worn-out parts being discarded. When replanting one wants to remember the ultimate size of the matured plant and to allow sufficient room for full development. Most of these subjects aro best planted in groups of five or six, allowing at least ono foot apart each way. Arrango tho plants so that tht tallest are at the back of the borders, so that they do not smothor or hide lower,growing subjects.

Poeonies may: be cut down as soon as the foliage has died naturally, not before. These plants do not like disturbance, so should be allowed to remain for three or four years without being lifted. When the clumps become too crowded they should bo lifted carefully with a fork, as much soil as possible be shaken out of them, and the roots be carefully divided, damaging as few roots vas possible. Replant in good loam, with plenty of humus incorporated, with the crowns just below the surface, and mark the site to avoid damage during future weeding.

Dahlias may bo cut down as soon as the foliage commences to die naturally, or when" they are cut with frost. It is as well to lift the tubers and store them in a dry frost-free place, either under cover of a hedge or trees, or in a shed. Care must be taken in lifting them, as the tubers often attain a great size and may easily oe badly damaged and broken. See that they are properly labelled before storing them. They may bo replanted or started into growth in the spring.

Gladioli have now died down, and should be lifted. They may be dug up as soon; asi the foliage starts to turn colour; in fact, aro best takuu'out before they die right down, as then the small cormlets aro less liable to fall off. If they aro allowed to remain in tho ground they are liable to start into growth too soon. After lifting, cut off the tops and spread the conns out to dry in a shed, and when thoroughly dry clean off the roots and store away till planting time.

PRUNING ROSES. The main pruning of roses should be done in the spring, but a certain amount of trimming up may be done now with advantage. Go over the bushes and remove all dead flowers and seed pods, also any dead wood. Give the beds a good forking over and a dressing of lime. Young carnation plants should be put out as soon as possible in well-propared, thoroughly drained soil. Carnations like plenty of lime, and during winter and spring an occasional overhead dusting with lime will help to keep the plants healthy. Carnations aro thoroughly hardy plants, and do not require any coddling. Plant in an open position," well away from hedges and ti;oes. They do not like leaf mould, and over manuring with artificial manures should be avoided. Cow manure is perhaps the best thing to use for these plants. Old plants should be attended to. Remove the old flowering stems and all dead leaves, and carefully fork round the plants and give borne lint. HARDY ANNUALS. Hardy annual's of various kinds may bo planted out' in places vacated by summer flowering plants, which have finished. " Stocks, calendulas, Iceland poppies, antirrhinums, forget-me-nots, neinisias, and many other similar plants may be planted now for early spring flowering. SPRING BULBS. Most spring bulbs are well up now, and-should be kept free from weeds. If not already in, some may still be planted, but this work should not bo delayed any longer. This is a good time to lift and replant liliums of various kinds. They should never be dried off, but be replanted as soon as possible after lifting. 'All the stem-rooting kinds should bo planted at least 6in deep, as they make roots from tho stems above the bulbs. Dig the ground to a good depth, and work in a liberal quantity of decayed leaf mould or dead leaves and weeds. Some docayed manure may be worked into the lower spit of soil, .but should not be allowed to come in contact with the bulbs. It is a good plan to surround the bulbs with clean sand. Remove any scales which are broken or which look unhealthy before planting. Most of the liliums^ do best when allowed to remain undisturbed for seyeral years. As long as they remain healthy, and do well, it is better not to lift them. A mulch of well-rotted manure spread over the clumps after they have finished flowering will greatly assist them. AMONG THE VEGETABLES. Tho principal work will consist of preparation for spring planting and sowing. Every vacant plot should be dug over, and either limed or manured. Work in any weeds available, and so improve the humus content of the soil. Anything buried in now will have tho whole of the winter to rot. • Some broad beans may be sown, also onions of the Giant Rocoor Ailsa Craig type. Cabbage and cauliflowe plants may be put out. All seedling crops should be thinnea out in the early stages, and bo kept free from weeds. Remove old tomato plants which have finished bearing; theso are best burnt, as they are liable to harbour disease. Any other spent crops should be dug out and cither buried or burnt.