Men Create New Fashions

Dominion, Volume 31, Issue 204, 26 May 1938, Page 5

Men Create New Fashions

There Is Skill, Inspiration and Patient Work In Designing Dresses

'pHERE are, in the fashion centres of the world, a number of gifted dress designers whose ideas dominate styles wherever women walk. How these people work, what influences their decisions and how they carry them out is shrouded in as much mystery as the workings of international politics; but an Englishman, visiting Paris, decided to invade the inner sanctum of a worldfamous dress-designer and see for himself how fashions are born.

WRITING in a London publication, the Englishman, Paul Bewsher, tells of what he saw in’ a famous fashion house.

Climbing up a narrow staircase covered with a soft pile carpet, he says, I made by way somewhat nervously into a large, quietly lit showroom of one of the French Maisons de Ilaut Couture.

I explained my mission. Boldly I asked whether I might be able to learn the key to the great mystery from the creator of the styles for which this house was famous. He is a man. Today about half the leading designers are men. Many people claim that men are better dressmakers than women. “But the spring collections are only a fortnight off. M. Is Directeur is working all day in his studio completing his designs. He cannot be approached,” an astonished woman secretary told me. However, a lit,tie later I was able to glean from “M. le Directeur” his ex-' planation of “How fashion is born.” He told a fascinating story of how the flash of inspiration in his brain eventually became a certain style of dress worn at the same time by a doctor’s wife in Vancouver and a diplomat’s daughter in Shanghai. In the middle of his large studio, surrounded by mirrors, stood a tall,, slitn mannequin, with gleaming brown hair exquisitely coiffured. She wore a dress which provided a. strange contrast to her beauty and dignity. It was an excellently cut evening gown—but made of a material like rather good quality cheese-cloth.

“Ah, this is toile. I design all my dresses in this plain cotton fabric direct on to the mannequin. Then I can get the line —the style—without being distracted by colour, materials, or anything,” explained the designer, running his slim hands like lightning over the frock, pinning here, pleating there.

“About the end of November I must begin to create the styles for the ‘spring collection’ to be shown to buyers from all parts of the world at the end of January. “I try to sense the atmosphere of the moment. All kinds of things influence this atmosphere—perhaps some theatrical success, or an exhibition, or a great musical or artistic event. Even polities sometimes affect it. You can feel this atmosphere in the air. “Then suddenly I decide. There comes a moment when I know. From then on I set to work to create styles in accordance with that inspiration."

The tall brunette floated out. A shorter mannequin, with curly blonde hair, walked perkily in. She wore a dapper sports outfit—still in the whiteish cheese-cloth.

“Mind you, women themselves have some influence on the fashions,” explained the designer with the flying fingers. “Just as I try to interpret the atmosphere, so I try to interpret what women want. As you might say, the ‘mode’ is the ‘mood.’ “The ordinary man, too, has some influence on fashion. After all, women are affected a little by what their husbands or men friends say. Women are always supposed to dress for men. “Might it not be said that women choose a style of dress to please men and the details of it to annoy other women? It is the style that men notice above all. That is one reason why men are such good designers. Women are too much distracted by details. “When 1 visualise a dress I just visualise a woman. Perhaps 1 see her walking into a restaurant, or stepping out of a motor-car, or strolling in the

park. I see just the woman in her dress. No colours, no fabrics, no details. Then I design that style.

“Aftey that come the endless details —the hard work.

“First, make a sketch of the design. My expert fitters have this produced in the simple white .material to the measurements of a mannequin suitable for the dross. The mannequin comes to my studio. I alter the dress until I am satisfied.

“Then I choose the fabric and the colour. These fabrics are being especially made for me. I have chosen the colours and the patterns. They are exclusively mine.

“Then the dress is made. I fit it on the mannequin. I choose the decorations. Perhaps a belt, a brooch, or an artificial flower. At last it is finished ! Than heaven! Think of it—l7o dresses for this collection alone. Nearly 500 a year altogether. Yes. hard work!” Upstairs, in room upon room, 300 or 400 workgirls were feverishly cutting and stitching-making the dream come true Printed notices warn them that if they reveal one single secret they might be punished by law. I. too, was sworn to secrecy. The women of the world must wait. 1