OLD LACE.

Dominion, Volume 1, Issue 65, 10 December 1907, Page 3

OLD LACE.

Old lace is a poem, and one that never tires. Perhaps it would bo found interesting, the history of this poem, told in tno briefest way. It is extraordinary the amount of lace which is associated with Marie Antoinette. Probably, if all the stories wero true, you could build her a monument, simply by piling the fabrics one on top of the other. ■ In the days of that unfortunato Queen sleeve ruffles in double and treble tier, with a narrow edging for the decollecee, was the extent of the lace garniture of fashionable women, though some wore a flounce of laco in addition. Simplicity was enforced at one period in respect of laco design, and this gave rise to the separation of the needlepoint motifs which make up tho design. Thus were evolved the sprig, separate leaf, and finally tho dot and ring. The invention of machinc-mndo net at tho beginning of the nineteenth century gave rise to appliquo laces. Napoleon tho Groat, when he donned the purple, found tho laco industry decadent, and revived that of Alencon to enhance the costliness of dress nu his court. Brussels lace owed much of its popularity in England to tho generosity, of Troyaux, a Bolgian lacomakor. He was in a big way, and stopped his business in order to turn his factory into a hospital for tno English soldiers. For years after tho British "ran" on Brussels lace to show their appreciation of that act. Burano lace was the lace of the old Popes, but in 1872 there was only one woman in all Italy who knew tho stitch. She taught a lady belonging to the suite of Queen 'iuargherita, and she taught eight others. In this way one of the most famous laces was saved from extinction. A rcmarkablo-spcci-mon of lace was presented Pope Leo au.l on tho occasion of his jubilee. It was subscribed for by the towns of Franco, and was mado by many operatives over many weary hours. It was modern Alencon. Point Trcsse is lace made from human hair. Louis XVI had such a cravat, tho hair being white, of course; and this he wore at his coronation. Marie Stuart .had somo Point Tresso, as tho fact is mentioned in history, and so had the great Elizabeth. Torchon was originally "beggar's lace," so called because it was made by the poorest in France; and was coarse and not very valuable Venetian women were brought iu to correct the work, and thus came Point de France, which is practically identical with Venetian point. Lace in its early history owed its success to the fashions or men, not women, and particularly soldiers. In 1690 a passport was demanded to allow tho passing through the lines of the French army of laces for the officers. Through their hurry in fixing those pieces intended for the neck arose the modern, cravat. The Elizabethan ruff grew so enormous that tho edge had to ba . pointed. This eventually became known as Van Dyck, and henco the name to-day. The Devonshire laceniakers in the reign of Georgo IV wero at their wits' end to live, hut the industry there was revived by Queon Adelaide, who, gave large orders'to restore it. The finest specimen of laco in the world is said to belong to tho Crown of Italy, having come to it from a cardinal. It consists of oval frames containing bouquets of roses, and each oval is linked to its neighbour with a festoon. To reproduce it now would be very costly, even if it were possible.