Clipping Privet Hedge

Press, Volume CIII, Issue 30406, 3 April 1964, Page 8

Clipping Privet Hedge

When should I cut • golden privet hedge? Should a box hedge be trimmed and I? so, what Is the correct height?— Novice (Fondalton). Golden privet is slower growing than the more common green types and so should not be cut as hard or as regularly unless a low hedge is required Two cuttings a year should be sufficient, one In spring and the other in early autumn. Twice a year is usually sufficient for box hedges also. The height to which you clip it will depend on the type of box being grown. Dwarf box hedges should e cut to « or 8 Inches while with other types it is a matter of personal opinion.

Could you give the cause and cure of the disease that is attacking my pears? The tree Is sprayed regularly each season but the fruit always seems to be affected, this year worse than ever. Also enclosed are some nectarines; the tree seemed to bo healthy until the fruit began to ripen, when most of It fell off. The remaining fruit appeared similar to the specimens enclosed.— P.. Me. (Tlnwald).

The damage on the pears is caused by pear scab, also called black spot. It can overwinter on Infected shoots, fallen fruit and leaves. After the fruit has been picked clear up and destroy all infected fruit and leaves. As your trouble has continued for a number of years, a spray programme that should be strictly adhered to is necessary. The spray materials, Bordeaux, captan. and thiram will all give control but they must be applied at the correct times. Brown Rot is destroying the nectarines. This is a serious disease and is common to all stone fruit. Again regular spraying with captan at appropriate times will give control.

Two Mandevlllea suaveolens ware planted about three years ago. I road that these climbers flowered freely throughout the summer and that the white flowers have a pleasant perfume. Heavy pruning was recommanded after flowering, and I have therefore pruned them. Although thia Io the third year

and they have grown to well that they have reeched the top of the trellis, there have been no flowers. Could you tell me where I hove gone wrong?— Gardenia (Papanui). Mandevillea suaveolens sometimes take a year or two before settling down and subsequently flowering. On no account should pruning be carried out until flowering has begun. Your reference said that pruning should be carried out after flowering. Enclosed is a branch of a flve-year-old conifer (Chamaecyparle plsifera squarrosa) which has been growing well until recently but portions are beginning to die out. It le growing against an Iron fence with a fruit tree close by, and is sheltered from the wind, le the discoloration a sign of Hl health, for It is evident on all branches. E.E.W. (Christchurch). Your tree is suffering from general neglect and such symptoms are not at all uncommon in such circumstances with this particular conifer. I am of the opinion that the conifer is not getting enough light as it is hemmed tn by a fence and a fruit tree. There are symptoms of red spider infestation which can be controlled by spraying with chlorocide. It also seems possible that there is dryness at the roots, which would further aggravate such a condition.

In your recent article on sewdust you mentioned that rotted eawdust had most of the advantages of peat. I have read that peat Is very good for gerberas and I wonder If rotted eawdust could be used Instead? The soil is on the light side; what artificial fertilisers should bo used?—V.B. (St. Albane).

Rotted sawdust incorporated Into the soil will be as suitable as peat for gerberas. Four parts blood and bone, two parts superphosphate and one part sulphate of potash at four ozs per square yard should ba applied before planting. R.B. (Christchurch).—lt Is regretted that it has not been possible to identify the plant tn question.