1962 Fashions May Be More Feminine

Press, Volume CI, Issue 29728, 23 January 1962, Page 2

1962 Fashions May Be More Feminine

(From a Reuter Correspondent)

i PARIS. The top designers of Paris are preparing “the Shape” of things to come. But if predictions come true, the new collections, being shown to buyers and press from January 22, will continue present trends towards a soft and feminine silhouette rather than produce any startling “new line.” The 1962 Look is being likened here to that of 1917. It may well prove, even, to be an unmitigated revival of the “Old Look” which epitomised the most feminine type of fashions. Now, as then, the pendulum is swinging back towards femininity. In 1947, Christian Dior launched his first New Look in protest against the severe, utilitarian clothes forced upon the women of the world by the exigencies of World War 11.

Today, designers are said to be sensing that the time has come for another “revival of the body beautiful,” after years of styles based on the sack, the chemise, and stiff, arohitecturally-con-structed, fashions. Last season, Paris applauded the gradual return of a waistline. Mr Marc Bohan, of Christian Dior, launched the most frankly feminine silhouette m years, giving women a moulded midriff, a belted waistline, and gracefully full or flared skirts. Current betting is that many other designers will follow the Dior leadership again in the coming season, and break with the last vestiges of stiffconstruction techniques. Even Balenciaga. long recognised as the originator and master of the stark and ultra-simple, architecturallyconstructed silhouette is breaking with the past. His broad shouldered look with mounted sleeves, shapeless, bloused bodice, and waistline resting on the hipbones is gradually giving way to more curvaceous fashions which cling to the body and salute natwe’s natural outline.

This over-al] change does not come as a dramatic, overnight revolution. The preview of “coming attractions” has been flashing across the Paris screen for several seasons. For more than a year, there have been subtle indications that the decade of the 1960's will be as different from the loose, unfitted, chemise fashions nf the 1950'5, as black from white Renewal of Ideas

But. thanks to financial considerations, the days of violent revolution are definitely over. Couturiers can no longer capriciously attempt to outmode existing styles every six months. Instead. there is a constant renewal of ideas, a subtle but often vital change from season to season, coupled with development and expansion. This is, however, a far cry from violent revolution which completely outdates all existing concepts of fashion Women today cannot afford such revolutions. What is more, they will not stand for them.

Designers who have tried to turn the tide singlehanded in recent years, have usually ended with a shattering financial loss from dealings with professional buyers and private clients alike. Mr Bohan recentlv elaborated on this idea. "I do not believe that women want to look completely different every season.” he said. “Designers can say a lot without becoming involved jfj big changes.”

Specific ideas now being discussed in Paris are clothes with cling and swing—clothes which emphasise the new, softer feeling through bias cutting and supple fabrics, clothes with more trimming and frills. Collars Again Collars and white accents arpund the throat are expected to replace the stark, and unflattering, collar-less necklines of past months. Hemlines will, it is believed, remain short and skirts will retain a gentle flair. Bodices will be more snug, with sleeves cut tighter and higher under the arms. Watch for a big revival of belts or lightly sculptured waistlines. _ The couturiers’ prolific choice of crepe from the new textile collections suggests that draping and bias cuts will be in the limelight. Leading textile firms report that designers have been enthusiastic about the supple silk, wool, and chiffon weight crepes. Another favourite theme is the brand new summer weight tweed. This has been most frequently chosen in soft blends, combining two or more pastel shades. Chanel is using many of these summer weight tweeds, in soft plaid weaves, marrying leaf green and lavender, many shades of blue, or black and white hound's tooth checks.