NEWS FOR WOMEN PARIS FASHIONS SHOWN TO LONDON AUDIENCE

Press, Volume XC, Issue 27502, 9 November 1954, Page 2

NEWS FOR WOMEN PARIS FASHIONS SHOWN TO LONDON AUDIENCE

(From the London Correspondent of “The Press")

a LONDON, October 29. The Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne presented in London last week 80 models from leading French fashion houses including all the most famous couturiers and others less known in this country. Preceding the show an announcement was made by Mr Raymond Barbas, president of the Syndicale, that agreement had been reached between himself and the London designers qn the dates of next season s fashion showings. The London Spring Collections will open on January 24 and those of Paris on January 31. Previously the clash of dates has caused great inconvenience in the fashion world. This new arrangement will enable the buyers to make their twice-yearly tour ©f the fashion houses in a more leisurely manner.

At the show 20 leading French mannequins displayed models from their own particular couturiers. Dior showed one grey satin evening gown with the new torso line, but observers think it unlikely that this vogue will become popular with the average woman. Madeleine de Rauche showed a tweed coat with a balaclava hood which would defy the strongest Wind, Raphael a removable tweed cumberbund over a day suit of the same material.

Maggy Rouff’s black velvet blouse was particularly attractive with a winter-white skirt. Worn with a matching coat trimmed with lynx, the coat and blouse were later removed to reveal a camisole top dress. Fath showed a grey coat with six patch pockets and a white ermine trimmed suit. One model struck an original note by carrying a bamboo swagger cane and another had braided her hair into a plait from which two huge pearls were suspended. This is in line with the current fashion of wearing jewellery in the hair. Muffs were much in evidence. One particularly attractive model in mink closely resembled a pumpkin in

Fur was again popular, many tweed and other coats being lined with mink. Platina fox was used for trimifing the neckline of a decollete cocktail dress, an idea which could be copied by the home dressmaker. Paquin showed a black crinoline gown of tulle with a strapless top, over which was worn a pink satin jacket trjmmed with jet; Alex Maguy a black velvet cape over a camisole top . dress which could be removed to form a peplum, also a tulle stole attached to a velvet neckband. Hanging gracefully from the back of the neck, it was both attractive and practical. So heavy that the model was only able to move at a very slow pace, was a medieval cloak and hood of scarlet velvety lined with white fur—reminiscent of the days when women rode side saddle and their mantles covered both the horse and themselves.

One of the more outstanding evening gowns was in white chiffon with a crinoline skirt formed by enormous petals.

Another evening gown was richly embroidered in diamante with the flowers picked-out in white fur, both unusual and very attractive. Perhaps the toost original of all ensembles was a short black cape trimmed with mink, which closely resembled a Yeoman Warder’s uniform. The regulation white ruffle and the braiding around the “beefeater” hat were replaced by fur. Pierre Balmain’s original blouse of white ermine, which has been copied by so many fashion houses, was also shown. In shirtrnaker style it is both warm and attractive and could easily be made at home in white fur fabric. For the mdfce glamorous occasion Jean Patou has designed a full-length evening coat of white fox. Worn over a scintillating black dress it formed a most beautiful ensemble.

All the models wore shoes with louis or the new “spiky” heels, and for cocktails these were usually trimmed with jet or diamante, which reflected the light. Some even had small bows or decorations at the back of the heel.