GARDEN NOTES

Press, Volume LXXXIV, Issue 25537, 3 July 1948, Page 5

GARDEN NOTES

(Specially Written for “The Press.”) [By T. D. LENNIE. A.H.R.1.H., N.Z.] FLOWER GARDEN No one can say that the weather so far this winter has interfered with due gardening work. It has been a most favourable season, and bears out a credible assertion that weather conditions run in seven-year dry and wet cycles, and that we are now approaching the peak of a dry cycle. This would seem to be borne out by the unfailing evenness of the mild weather of the last two years at least. Such being the case, routine work should be well up to date. Even when the ground is wet, other jobs can be done. Hedge trimming is one of these. It is not always sufficient just to trim up to last year’s mark, especially with older hedges that are getting too wide, for then it is advisable to remove some of the old wood by sawing. Most evergreen hedges will benefit by this reduction, for younger growths will be encouraged and a closer hedge result. This applies particularly to laurel, holly, and Eliagnus. These cuttings can be burned and the ground turned over to leave everything tidy. Fallen leaves on the borders should be dug in. This will benefit shrubs or perennials, and leave things in order for plants ing to fill gaps, and as planting time has now arrived, this work will occupy attention in many gardens.* Spring flowering bulbs will be showing through now and it will be wise to weed

and loosen the soil over and round them. This should be done carefully. It is also a good time to make any planting changes you wish, for even fairly large trees can be shifted, provided top growth is cut back to conform with the inevitable root reduction. Often a wrong site may be chosen for things like azalea, rhododendrons, and daphne, all of which like a cool root run, and, using care, these could now be shifted. The soil growing these best is covered by the description "a good black soil without lime.”

Chrysanthemums should be cleared of all old stems. Leave the young base shoots to grow in for next season. Old clumps can be broken up and the young shoots potted up to make strong plants for October planting. Small birds are liable to eat off the tops of carnation and polyanthus buds where these are growing in a sunny border. It seems strange that the birds leave alone those in a cold position. A few strands of black cotton round low sticks is the best preventive.

Autumn flowering bulbs can be planted. These include the nerines (spider lilies), arum or Galla lily, amaryillis, Hippiastruni, and Crinum Powelli.

Climbing plants for the fence can be planted. Roses are perhaps first favourite, but there are other good alternatives. Clematis montana (pink), ampelopsis—Cydonia Japonica—alebia-* quinata. Passifloras, and jasmine are all very suitable. Hokeria or Gaya.—The family of lacebarks are among the most striking of New Zealand endemic plants and are extensively planted for their profusion of white cherry-like blossoms and neat habit of growth. The three main divisions— Hokeria, Plagianthus, Gaya, have botanical differences, but have the common attribute of snowy blossoms throughout summer and autumn. The Hokeria is native to the North Island, the other two only to the South Island. Travellers doing the Te Anau-Milford journey are enraptured by the beauty of Gaya Lyalli in, its home on the Southern Alps, where it is one of the few New Zealand plants to become deciduous. Plagianthus is more of a seaside plant and used to be common throughout Canterbury down to Stewart Island and the Chathams. Like the kowhai, the plagianthus goes through an interesting juvenile twiggy stage before attaining the mature normal larger leaves of the adult plant, which the Hokeria does not. Climatic conditions seem to govern the domicile of this fine family. VEGETABLES AND FRUIT Preparations can be begun for spring sowing and planting. Where good supplies of farm manure or compost are available this can be spread over vacant ground two to three inches thick and dug in. It will have disintegrated before sowing. Rhubarb may need attention if the roots have been in position for some years, and are liable to go to seed. Lift the crowns, dividing off the fertile outer quarters for replanting, and use the old worn out centres for the compost heap. It will be good business now to dig up the root crops, remove tops, .and bury somewhere handy, thus freeing more ground for digging in manure. Early potato tubers can be boxed under cover for sprouting. Choose a good, early kind such as Epicure, Jersey Bennes, Cliff’s Kidney, or Ddbn Early. Broad beans, early peas, lettuce, and cabbage can be sown. Shallots, letttuce, and cabbage plants can be put in for early use. Carry on with pruning and spraying of fruit trees. This is another job that can be done when the soil is too wet for working. ANSWER TO CORRESPONDENT Reader, Selwyn street.—The fact that you put a good mulch of cow manure round your raspberry dumps makes it inadvisable to add lime for some time yet. The action of lime on organic manure results in a rapid liberation of nitrogen and potash salts, and these would be wasted if the roots were not very active. They are not yet at that state. It would be In order to add the super about flowering time when the raspberries will need a stimulus, but lime is not advisable at present. Manure one year, lime the next, is the accepted formula.