IN THE GARDEN

Press, Volume LXXII, Issue 21686, 21 January 1936, Page 5

IN THE GARDEN

WORK FOR THE WEEK (•PBCIALLT WBITTIX FOB 188 ?BBS«.) [py W. J..HUMM.] vegetables' Though the weather generally has been warm and sunny this season there have been frequent showers, which have made the watering of vegetables growing on good land almost unnecessary: But where the land is dry watering or mulching will have to be carried out, if. first-class vegetables are to be grown. Where it is necessary to water great care should be taken not to overdo it. Keeping the toil too cold and wet retards growth and kills the fertility of the soil. To put the hose on and leave it runin the same place for hours at a time is not only a waste of water, but it washes the plant food beyond the reach of the roots, and therefore more harm than good will be dune. It is also a mistake simply to sprinkle the surface, for this usually causes the surface soil to crust over and exclude the air from reaching the roots, and also has a tendency to attract the roots to the surface. When watering is done, give enough to sink well down to the ends of the roots, and the next day, when the soil is workable, give the surface a good hoeing, to prevent rapid evaporation from taking place and to warm and aerate the soil. In deeply cultivated soils, especially those of a clay sub-soil, watering is seldom needed, as the natural water is held in the sub-sou and it gradually rises to the surface during dry periods by capillary attraction. In such soils the frequent use of the hoe is far better than the use of the water- , ing can. Surface cultivation not only conserves moisture, but it liberates plant food and assists bacterial action In the soil, without which healthy growth is impossible. Nothing is more injurious to vegetable plants than a hard-baked surface soil. The special advantage of mulching with manure is that the soluble plant food is washed down to feed the roots, and also it prevents to a large degree the drying out of the soil. Of the three operations, hoeing and cultivating are the most important, mulching is the next, and watering should be done only when absolutely necessary. Any vacant land from which crops have been cleared should be again deeply dug over, except that which is to be occupied by any members of the cabbage family, ail of which do much better when they are given a firm root run. When the soil has been deeply cultivated previously all that is required when planting any of the cabbage family is simply to hoe over the surface lightly and make holes with a dibber and put the plants in. If the land is not required for crops at present, clear off all rubbish and I turn the soil up to the weather. It is far better to keep it in cultivation than allow it to grow a crop of weeds. If the soil is lacking in humus, sow it down with some green crojp and dig it under in the autumn. This will restore the soil to a fertile condition. Those who grow their own vegetable seeds should be most particular to save seeds from those plants which are true to type and which show unusual excellence. There are always to ibe found in every crop .quite a number of plants that are: not up to the standard and.quite frequently the pods or; tubers of these are passed over as not fit.for the table so that quite frequently they-find their way into the seed-bag. No good result can come, from this method.. Only the very best should be saved for seed. Good as our vegetable types are at present, they may still be greatly improved .by onlx ; toe v best types lot s&edg Many mmbemtil vegetable growers know only too well that it is impossible, no matter what cultivation is given, to produce good quality crops from inferior seeds. It is necessary when selecting potato sets for next season's crops to save only those from prolific and healthy parents. Quite often those plants smitten with that deadly disease known as virus will produce nothing but tubers, and sometimes these are saved for producing the crops next season. This can only end in disaster. By saving seeds from those plants which are true to type, prolific, and healthy, and are suited to your particular locality, you may greatly prove the yield and quality of yoyr crops. * Tomato plants are doing well this season and many of the lower bunches of fruit are beginning to show colour. Assist the plants as much as possible to mature the fruit by supplying liquid manure occasionally. Topdressing the roots of the plants with well-rotted manure, and fresh loam to which sharp sand has been added, will cause the plants to develop stem roots. These will greatly improve the quality of the fruit. Do not expect too much from each plant. As soon as they have set four •✓or five bunches of fruit, stop the main leader. This will cause the plant to put all its enerpv into maturing its fruits. Continue to plant broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, kale, and savoys, also celery and leeks. Sow silver beet, carrots, endive, perpetual spinach, and yellowfleshed turnips. Make the last sowing for the season of french beans. If an early variety of peas is sown now a fair crop can be depended on. The Sherwood is quite good. Make sowings of all vegetables used for salad. FLOWERS This month the flower garden should look its best. At present a great many annuals and perennials are in bloom. Dahlias, too, are beginning to make their display. Of* late years these showy subjects have been greatly improved both in form and colour; their flowering period, too, has been much lengthened. Many of the varieties begin their display soon after Christmas and continue to be effective until the frost arrives. Dahlias are fast growers and their growths are easily broken by heavy winds and therefore they should

be well staked and tied from the time they begin to put on growth. If. flowers are required for exhibition, a little extra attention must be given. With the large-flowered, decorative and cactus types a definite plan of training, must be carried * out Strong, growths capable of bearing blooms of the highest quality must be built up, and the plant's energy be directed to this purpose. As a rule, four or- five main shoots are as much as one plant can mature, and these should be selected from the strongest of the basal shoots. Each selected.shoot must be individually staked and tied. Except for a few lateral growths to provide a succession of blooms, the selected shoots must be kept free from side growths. Encourage the plants to develop well-ripened growths by giving them a wellbalanced food. Soft stems and watery foliage result from overfeeding. A limited amount of disbudding will be necessary, but it should not be carried to excess or coarse malformed flowers will be the result. Huge blooms lacking, quality seldom find favour with a qualified judge. The layering of carnations must be undertaken as soon as the plants have finished flowering, otherwise the layers will not be rooted in time for autumn planting. Begin by cutting, out all spent flower stems and spindly growths. Leave only six or eight of the strongest to be layered on each plant. Strip the lower leaves to within six inches of the top of each growth, then make an incision with a sharp knife, beginning two or three inches from the base. Cut straight in below a joint and continue the cut upwards. for at least one and a half inches. Have some wire pins, ready to hold the layers into position. Fill in around the layers with some finelysifted soil and sharp sand. Do not water the layers for at least three days. The best time for planting lily bulbs is as soon as the flower stems ripen off. Several of the early flowering kinds may be attended to at once, should they need it.. Lilies dislike transplanting. When once they are established and doing well they are best left undisturbed. The Christmas lily is almost evergreen, and the best time to plant it is as soon as the flowers fade. Lilium Regale blooms very prolifically and sets seeds freely. To mature this is a big drain on the vitality of the bulbs, and unless needed the seed heads are best removed. SHRUBS At present several species of Buddleias are making a display. This family of plants supplies quite a number of showy garden subjects. They start off during the winter with a display from that sweetly-scented form B. salvifolia, followed by B. allernifolia, and during the summer with several forms. At present several forms of B. variabilis are making a display-. Two distinct kinds now in flower are B. V. var Veitchianus and 8.V.. nanhoensis, both of which have panicles of lilac coloured flowers. These two forms will continue to flower until well into the autumn. Buddleias are not difficult to manage. They do best when givena well-drained, sunny position. All are vigorous growers, and if left to grow at will, are liable to get out of hand. However, they stand the knife, well, and the strong growths may be pruned hard back during the early spring.