IN THE GARDEN.

Press, Volume LXIV, Issue 19198, 3 January 1928, Page 6

IN THE GARDEN.

, WORK FOR THE WEEK. ! ■«■ cc:.'.:.t.t wbittut 70s the rsi?;.) j i'L'.y J. T. Sinclair.l ANSWEKS TO CORRESPONDENTS T<.•;:;.!•.<;. —J lAiij'i-'in ' :ot - ojuuiijoes you ; nicntivn. yen;- -.omato plants seem 10 be i .l.'Tcc'.cd ly a blight called ciadosporinin j iuiuu)-:. ;;«■!;• with iime-sulphur at the I mt*' »: iwo tabiospcor.inis to one gallon i .>:' v.a'.sr: repeat in a fortnight. Give ! .. ::ond soaki:'.L- to the '.oots with sul- ! |-!j;ii.- ■-.:' iroii. ";c: to the pa I ion. Apply ! j'-iii-iif.iV'ph'-.'-sM i'e'r-nV'i-h. I ; VEGETABLES. Silvor rivet. — A sowing to provide ' iraw- (luring winter ;i 111 i spring -hould :»• imi!o early this month. Tito midlib-- iiro n*t'il like ,-eakale. and the leaves like spinach. Tlic plants do not thrive (in a poor dim. and for that ; ro;iM)ti 1)10 ground should' ho well day anil liberally nut mi rod. Tread the ! ; ground moderately firm and .-ow m J diills two ioct apart and two inches i ■ iK'om.

Winter Crop.-.-.-The usual vegei uu'les ;n ;iif aimiUiii'a garden consist or a single hatch of cauliflower, cabbage. !iioc.''.i!i. or savoys as a general rule. When the.-.' are over there is no other green vegetable available until the -priug-piaut', 4 ..i.-ie- '.-oiiio in, and thus there is a largo gap. But if a dozen of each kind ana' variety were planted instead of a big batch of one particular .sort, the same piece of ground would be taken up. and yet the produce would be spread over several months. The cost of the method is no greater than the ordinary way. All that is needed is a little more thought, and, perhaps, a little mow trouble. There is not much to say on planting, .as that is an easy matter. It is well, however, to plant on firm soil rather ihan on one which is fresfily dug. The latter should! be well trodden previous to planting. It is better to draw out drills some four inches deep, and to plant in these rather than on the level. Later on, as the plants grow and the ground is hoed, the soil will fall about the stems and give support to the plants. With the exception of the smaller sorts of cabbages and savoys there should be two i'eet between the rows, and the same distance between the -plants. Nothing is gained by planting closer together those which are to stand the winter. There was, at one time, much discussion as to whether it is better to plant with a trowel or dibber. We <k> not know that there is a great deal of difference between the two. The main thing is to 'get the tap root of the plants straight down into the soil, and to make this firm about the roots. What is important is to water the plants immediately thev are put out, giving sufficient to get well down to the roots. Tf parched plants come to hand dry at the roots, stand them 111 a vessel containing a fairly thick puddle of soil and water for an hour or two. Celery.—This is another important winter'vegetable that should not be overlooked now. Plant in trenches as described earlier, either in single or double rows. A check will sometimes cause these plants to "bolt"; therefore plant carefully, preserving the soil about the roots, and install immediately thev are lifted from the boxes. Potatoes.—This crop generally is looking well, but' the recent weather, although it has led to rapid and showy growth, also seems likely to prove favourable to the development of disease. It therefore behoves everyone, as far as possible, to take all possible precautions and especially to look out for tirccnflv. Turnips —From now until the end of February make small sowings of some yellow variety, such as Golden Globe, at intervals for autumn and vantei use. A semi-shaded position ts best, and attention must be given to thranin" hoeing, and! watering, as the sucthe crop will depend upon how these details are carried out. .Vsparagus.-One sees asparagus tollage used here, there, and everywhere iit conjunction with flowers during the summer, and it would appear necessary to remind those wjho are in -tue habit of cutting the "fern" from then asparagus beds that by doing so tney are injuring the prospects of a good supply of that vegetable next season. The stems of foliage should not bo cut down till autumn. Why not grow a clump or two in a corner of the flower crarden for supplying the necessary greenerv for. nosegays and flower vases? Each crown has a considerable number of buds, and when some of ihc shoots are cut. others hitherto dormant start into growth. Obviously, however, this cannot go on indefinitely If the cutting is continued too long the plants are permanently weakened, and good, strong growth impossible.

FLOWERS. Violas—Those in beds will continue flowering lor a much louger time ir the shoots are pegged down as they extend. They will root at tho joints, each plant becoming the centre of a little colony of younger ones, which will keep up a succession of flowers. As the old straggling shoots of pansies arc hollow, lliey cannot he treated the same ivav. Th'ev should be cut hard back. ]i" the soil is then kept moist vouii'-' shoots will issue from the base of the plants, and will flower if allowed to remain, or they may be taken off and used as cuttings. Rose Budding.—There is no doubt that one of the most interesting duties of the summer garden is the budding of roses. Tho best months to carry out the work are January and February The stocks which.are to be budded must, of course, be well rooted. The bud must be taken from wellformed, firm, but not luxuriant or tappy shoots. In taking the bud, it is cut from the shoot with a 'sharp knife in the form of a small shield, inserting the knife about half an inch below the base of the bud, and cutting upwards about half-way through the thickness of the shoot till under the bml, when the knife should be moved upwards again to a point about halt an inch above the bud, and then be brought out. A little of the wood will be found to be adhering to the bark of the shield or slice thus cut out, which must be removed with care not to injure the base of the bud. If a small cavity is revealed by the removal of the wood at that point, the bud is useless, and another attempt must be made to secure one without that fatal cavity. The T-shaped receptacle for th.p bud is made by two cuts with the point of tho knife, one downwards, the other transverse half round the thicknest: of the shoot at the top of the downward cut. The bark is nest raised on each side of the incision, and the lower end of the bud is inserted and pushed to the bottom of the opening: the hark is then returned to its place, and tied firm enough to exclude air from the wounds with raffia. ]■' u part of the shield projects at the top end of the incision it must be cut awav before the tie is put on. As in grafting, everything depends on making clean cuts: as well. too. it is most important that there should be no dolay in placing the finds in position as soon as they are ready. Current work. —Young geranium plants intended for winter flowering should be encouraged to make free growth, giving them closes of liquid insure now and again, and keeping the buds pinched off. Long shoots on climbing and other roses that can be bent tiT the ground may be layered. Ther will root by late antumn or

spring, and can be seTered and removed. Regal pelagoniums finished flowering should be placed outside on ashes in a sunny position, to ripen thoroughly. When flower seeds are required to be saved, cut off the stems, and tie the heads in proper hags, hanging them to the ceiling of a dry room. The seed pods will gradually open.' and the seed fall into the bags.