IN THE GARDEN.

Press, Volume LXII, Issue 18682, 4 May 1926, Page 7

IN THE GARDEN.

WORK FOR THE WEEK. (SPECIALLY W3ITTZK TOR "THX FB2SS. )

(Uv J. T. MVCLAIR.)

VEGETABLES. Peas aii.l broad beans.—When the latter are sown in the autuuiu they are less straggling in growth, more productive, and earlier than when sown in spring. Not only that, but the points of the shoots are not so much attacked by aphis as are later sown lots. For both crops the ground should be well manured and cultivated, and the manure should be put some little way below the surface, so that the plants may get the benefit of it when they most need it and that is when they start to move, when warm weather begins in spring. The beans can be sown six inches apart in drills four inches deep, and three feet asunder. Broad Windsor or any of the long-podded sorts can be sown. A dwarf, hardy variety of pea, such as Euglish Wonder, must be chosen, and the drills can be three inches deep and two feet apart. If possible select a warm site.

Rhubarb.—Crowns required for forc- [ ing should be lifted, and exposed to the weather. This is the best way to get good results, as the roots get a good rest before being subjected to the stimulating influence of the hot-bed. When lifted and placed direct into heat the stalks are usually weak and spindly, but when lifted and kid on the surface for some time, the stalks are much stouter and the crop better in every way. FRUIT. Raspberries.— The best time to make a new plantation is late autumn, while there is plenty of warmth in the soil, and yet little fear of long-continued drought. Under ordinary circumstances the raspberry is such a prolific plant, and continues to bear for such a long time with very little trouble and expense, that there is a disposition to leave the bed without renewal for a long time. A fairly heavy, yet welldrained soil is perhaps tlie best, but. even with the best attention, this will become exhausted through time, and when this has happened, a new plantation should be made. To increase the plants is a fairly easy matter, owing to its habit of pushing" up suckers at some distance from the parent plant. When digging up the suckers it is well to retain all the fibrous roots possible. The rows can be fivo feet apart, and, if planting is going to bo done in clumps, three feet from clump to clump. A bettor way is to plant eighteen inches apart in the row and securo the canes to wires, one two feet and the other four feet from the ground. How: deep the roots should bo planted depends a great deal upon the nature of the soil, but as the surface roots are fibrous they should be kept well up, and be well spread out in holes sufficiently largo to receive them. The raspberry always repays for good feeding, and light land should get a heavy dressing of manure.

FLOWERS. | The rose.—ln rose-growing there are two very important points to consider, < namely soil and situation. The rose succeeds boat in a fertile, loamy soil, ,of a rather stiff nature,.free from stagnant moisture; it is a very accommodating plant as regards the site it may be placed in, but, like most other beautiful products of Nature, it has preference for a place in the sun, with a clear atmosphere, and fairly good shelter from stormy winds. The plants may be put in and do well in shady situations, provided the shade is not overhead, as from overhanging branches of trees, but there is no doubt whatever that a woll-sholtcred, open site is best. If one's soil is light it may be improved by adding some stiff loam and cowdung, and spent manure. Likewise, if the soil is of a heavy, cold nature, add some of a lighter texture. All the preparation needed with a good ordinary loam is trenching and manuring. Break up the subsoil, whatever its nature may be, with a spade, or pick, or fork, and leave it in its place, then turn the loam on it, and mix therewith the manure, leaving the upper half without manure, it being injurious to the roots if brought in contact with them when fresh. Wet soils must be drained, as the plant is impatient of stagnant water about the roots, and whenever this is likely to occur, draining must bo the first operation to be done, in preparing to plaut the rose. If the ground i 3 in proper condition for planting, the soil should work clear, eo that the roots may be nicely laid; out. Before planting, examine the roots cf every plaut, to discover any that may be broken or lacerated, and cut them back to sound parts with a sharp knife. Do the same with the branches, cutting any that are broken back to the first bud below the break, but, prune uo more of the top than this till spring is well advanced. Should the ground be wet, or the weather frosty when the plants arrived from the nursery, open out a trench and lay the roots in. it, covering them with soil, where they can remain until such time as planting can take place. Make the hole wide enough to lay the roots out their full length in a natural way, working in tine soil around them, and make the ground firm by tramping it well.

In. planting dwarf roses and climbers to train on fences and pergolas, all of which are generally budded "close to the ground, the poiut at which the union of stock, and scion is situated on the stem should be placed an inch or two below the surface of the soil. By doiug so there is little chance of injury to the union, and there is a chance of the rose striking roots near where it is budded. Staudard roses should be planted just as deep as they were in the nursery. This can be settled by examining the base of the stem, where it will be found the bark is paler in colour. The distance apart for standards should be at least three feet, and dwarf sorts from eighteen inches to two feet, according to the sorts. After planting, place a firm stake to all that require it, to prevent the wind blowing them about. For the full enjoyment of a plantation of roses they should be legibly and correctly labelled. It does not do to trust to the flimsy thing attached to the ■ tree when purchased, as this is not intended to stand much wear, and the chances are that the writing is in pencil, and will soon «.ash out. After planting, staking, and labelling has been finished, nothing further needs to be done to the young rose brushes until the end of August, when pruning should be taken in hand. Edging.—Path, bed, and border edgings of thrift, lemon, and common thyme, pinks, and hardy heaths should be planted within the next two weeks or so, in order to have the plants wellestablished before the more vigorous types of winter weather arrive. Boxedging is not so frequently seen as it deserves to be in modern gardens, for a well-laid out and maintained box edging is always an attractive feature in gardens, or part of gardens, where a certain formality is preserved.