THE COAST TRACK

Press, Volume LXI, Issue 18308, 16 February 1925, Page 7

THE COAST TRACK

GREYMOUTH TO WESTPORT

A BEAUTIFUL WALK

[Contributed.]

Comparatively few people in Canterbury have beard of the coastal track between Greymouth and "Westport, which in years to come will be known for its scenic splendours. This track can be covered on a four days trek, through some of the most magnificent natural beauty in the world—beauty of virgin bush, foaming waterfall, and wild rocky promontory jutting out into a thundering sea. Although it occasionally runs inland, up hill and down dale, over bush-clad slopes where the song of birds is an ever-present joy, the track mainly wends its way within sight and sound of the sea. The road itself is well-formed and in good condition, exeept between the two points of Brighton and Punikaikai, where one v finds the merest of rougli tracks so narrow that only horses or pedestrians could get through. _ This January several enterprising parties of twos and threes have journeyed through on foot, while bicycles have also been taken. Indeed, a bicycle, though an encumbrance on steep grades, is a boon when a flat or downhill stretch is reaehed. Good accommodation at the three points of Barrytown, Brighton, and Charleston is to be obtained on the way, and the distance between these places can be easily traversed in a day. From Greymouth, after leaving the Cobden bridge, the road follows the railway line through Eunanga. A short distance out, one passes the stone erected by public subscription in memory of the bank robbery in November, 1917. A fairly large deserted coalmine is to be seen also, and numbers of iron pipes, which are the relics of the old goldmining days of Westland. Evidences of old gold diggings are to be met with in many places, and although sluicing to a great extent has destroyed the land for farming, dairy herds and cattle are very much in existence, especially on the road. Sometimes some fearsome-looking beasts are to be met, but a few stones usually have the desired effect of clearing the way. After leaving Eunanga, and about seven miles out from Greymouth, one catches a first glimpse of that "vision of pulsating loveliness," the sea. From then on, whether rounding some bushcovered headland, climbing some little incline, or emerging into some unknown tiny bay, a jewel in its own perfect setting of green-clad hills, sheer rock and rolling breaker, the sea, foaming and thundering below, is ever present. After traversing the road for nineteen miles, the settlement of Barrytown is reached, and the first day's journey is ended. Barrytown was one of the many mushroom towns of the Coast in the old days, when the lure of gold gave it a population of many thousands. To--day it is but a small township which centres round a flourishing flaxmill, while cream from dairying districts around is sent to Greymouth by regular motor-lorry service. The course of the next day's journey takes one to Brighton, and this, as far as actual going is concerned, is the most strenuous day en route. When Deadman's Eiver is reached the road ceases to be a road, and the track proper commences. About a mile further on, and just opposite the little school of Punikaikai, is the Government reserve round the "Blowholes." The "Blowholes "'are marvellous limestone formations which defy description. They consist of swirling green courtyards, a hundred feet deep, worn in tho counties ages of time. The boom of each wave, rushing and crashing under these huge limestone cliffs into deep caverns beneath, reminds one of enemy guns; u.nd beyond lies the sea, that force of Nature* which has left for the contemplation of man such gigantic wonders. The track surface varies from loose sand and short grass to-boulders. In places it has to be widened, either by burning the bush or blasting the hillsides, and a further grant frorn the Government is being anxiously awaited. But all difficulties of road are more than, compensated by the splendour around, lagoons with stately nikaus and bold cliffs mirrored in their peaceful depths, I separated from the sea by but a strip of yellow sand; native bush so thick that the sea below is scarcely glimpsed; tiny bays with impenetrable cliffs to the water's edge, and afar out a myriad rocky inlets set in a under a glowing summer son. As one reaches Brighton, which is sometimes called by its postal name of Tiromoana, the Foxes Eiver has to bo crossed. The river presents some .difficulty, as the bridge was washed away two years ago. At low tide it is necessary to shout and a boat is put over for one; but with a high tide considerable •difficulty may be experienced. Then the wide estuary mouth, which at the ebb is quite dry, is full of swiftrunning water. Accommodation is obtained here at a farmer's residence on the river bank. At Brighton there are some very fine limestone caves, and visitors are taken over them for the trifling of half-a-crown. The caves are some distance up the bushclad gorge of the Foxes Eiver, the scenery of which is magnificent. As the river has to be forded five or six times during the journey up to the caves, which are on similar • lines' as I those at Waitomo, .though not so big, horses are needed for the trip. Brighton itself, with bathing, climbing, and fishing, is an ideal place for a long, lazy holiday. .... Charleston, some twelve miles distant, is the next stage of the journey. For a mile and a quarter after leaving Brighton there is no road or track but sandy beach. However, when that part is covered a well-formed road runs right through to Westport. Just as the road comes again into evidence a small English church is reached. Here a fairly large landslip has. blocked the path, and reaching the little church by the roadside, has burst open the' doors and pushed it back a yard from its foundations. From Brighton the road goes inland, climbing many a high hill, up and down, until Charleston is reached. Nearing this place, old gold mines and diggings are seen on every hand, while the land, rendered practically useless, grows only a short scrub. | In its prime Charleston had a population of 40,000 people, and to cater for these there were seventy hotels, of which onb/ one remains. Although nearly all of the shops and houses which belonged to its former prosperity have long since been pulled down, or have fallen away, one or two still remain to be seen in ruins. The footpaths, once well-formed, now are grassed over and almost lost. Eemains of big and little gold mines and claims are everywhere. Anyone knowing Charleston in its days of "old, when the lure of gold brought within its ken life in teeming hundreds, can-point out.many places of interest now in ruins or utterly' demolished. Sailing ships, even, at one time, used to enter the harbour at high tide, and there are still to be seen in the rocks two rings through which ropes were passed to pull the vessel into the open sea by man power. Although there is still a stretch of eighteen miles to be covered before Westport is reached, there are no difficulties to be met with en route. On leaving Charleston there are two roads, one following the beach for some distance, the other striking inland. This

road,, being shorter, is mostly used. The. beach road is mainly sand.

A little settlement, Addison's, now consisting of a. building or' two, but. ■which once boasted' some 7000 souls, all keenly striving, in the, search for the elusive gold, is reached about eight miles from Westport. ; The country on either hand bears eloquent witness to the struggles which ensued in forcing Natur'e to relinquish the much-sought-after treasure. Perhaps, in years to come, cattle runs and dairy farms may bring prosperity to the now waste lands. At Westport. the journey is ended. Visions of wonderful seascape, mountain, river and lake; combine to invest with unrivalled beauty, the road, which, when properly formed, will go through some of the most magnificent scenery in New Zealand.