FROM CHRISTCHURCH TO HOKITIKA.

Press, Volume IX, Issue 989, 9 January 1866, Page 2

FROM CHRISTCHURCH TO HOKITIKA.

TO THE EDITOR OF THE "PBESS." I Sib, —With your permission I pur- i pose to give your readers a few parti- ; culars and observations respecting the i overland route to Westland, with , impressions about the port townships in that part of the province, &c. The difficulties and dangers which have been experienced by many who ( in time past have travelled that way, must have left impressions which only death will erase, having been such as neither tongue can adequately describe or pen depict; suffice it therefore to say that the obstacles are fast passing away, and the difficulties alluded to will henceforth be but very faintly understood by future travellers. The accommodation on the line of road is also daily becoming more equally distributed, and is fast assuming a better character, so that even j now there is seldom need to submit to 1 a watery, earthern, couch, exposed to drenching rain or drifting snow, with freshets to cause hasty midnight retreat, [ &c; but the weary traveller can, under j most circumstances, secure shelter, and have his wants supplied, although as yet he must not be fastidious in his choice of living, or very scrupulous about prices. Imagining that to give the reputed distances and nature of such accommodation might be rendering service to future travellers, but especially to pedestrians, I ask your permission to proceed into detail from notes taken* on the journey, both ingoing over and returning to this side. Starting then from Christchurch, and turning into the Coal Track at Biccarton Church (the right-hand road), Taylor's Harewood hotel will be reached at seven miles, and the Miners* Best at eleven miles from town, while at nine miles further Watson's riewaccommo dation-house or hotel will be found, and three miles further, or twenty-three miles distant from Christchurchi the traveller reaches White's, as vgood a roadside inn as need be found in any new country. Proceeding.onwards from White's to Grainger's,* which is the next accommodation, thirteen miles of plain has to be traversed (which the writer" did each way before breakfast), and if the weather is hot the pedes-' triad may find it desirable to carry a; little water, for without going some distance from the road he will not find any drinkable water. When at hostelry, civility, attention, and cjeanliness will have to compensate for a slight paucity - in the ._ accommodation, but judging from the energy of the host and hostess, im-< proved accommodation will riot long be wanting. Grainger ' has appropriated a large paddock for the accommodation of* horses -and other traveling stock, which.': cannot fail to prove serviceable to .many. There is also/a capital shoeing and ,general this place', which is contiguous Malvern coal mines. Ariothe£* accjola-, modation-house 'is -also in course Tof erection, for which I conceive % betfjefc stand might have been chosen. "One or two new farm-houses and enclosures are also to be seen; and, I understand some cultivation is intended, which I deem wise, as it is certain that without the production of horse feed along the line of road, it will be a total impossibility for teamsters to sustain any overland traffic. Moving onwards, the traveller will, at about, seven miles distance, or forty-three' from town, come to Mcßae's hotel (late Wfllufjff Here accommodation for both man and beast will be found in tolerable plenty and variety, Btores being also ' obtainable. A . semi-wholesale.: store 1 has also been recently opened in close ' proximity:. ;Here,;*alsxv;*#ra> erected . the first country stables and barracks, &c., of the Escort service, all of which, added to an/adjoining station and a ( sprinfclvig-of Vsinaljer .npmuas^eids; l in. the distance (say one ;i© Jtiree amidst small clomps, belts, -and Ibxeats of timber, tend to create a feeling ol ' pleasing homeliness. ■ [ About three .jpr four miles onward t the first river has to be as ; a rude, loot bridge is throwpi across for the use of pedestrians,/flfet legs' are spared nntilafuther distance of three or four miles has been traversed, when during the remainder of the ten mile stage, between Mcßae s and BiddelTs : Porter's Pass hotel, four or five, icy, • fast running little streams have to be '. crossed. Accommodation for both ! man and beast will be the . Pass hotel, and, although- not in • Parisian style, yet for a new bush es- \ tablishment, is calculated, to give 1 tolerable satisfaction. A store is also kept on the premises of the hotel, and

there is a capital new store adjomtngJlH The* mail changes horses here, a_d§jP9 light coach is substituted for the heavyMfl one —distance about fifty-three mue_ll_B from Christchurch; and the may be said to have been crossed a*f9i three or four miles on the C_iufc,sH church side. Passing onwards at moderate incline for about a mile, thasH foot of the renowned Porter's Pass reached, and a climb of no ordinary !l|f character commences, which, tak_aS§|| only by my judgment, I should rate «*f_H about a mile and a-half of steep cut from the winding side of the hill, jap but firm good road as could weMbftf||| made in such a place; however, a poafjlfi and rail fence on the outer edge would jffl be a vast improvement. It appears toJSg the writer that the gradient of tbiaf§| rise is something akin to thayMl southern side of? tLe Lyttelton;ffl ! bridle track, though not quite m\Wl steep. But it also seems to mc thatffi | the opposite Bide of the hill, on the present dray track is cut, oflfertJj| facilities for securing a much mor*t|B I easy gradient; and if so, when a fitting gal! I opportunity arises, it will, | doubt, be seen to by the proper fil 1 authorities. On reaching the top, 'thft|fl traveller will find the decent lebgthT,||| but remarkably easy, and fine metalled |s road ; and at a short distance a fitw|-||i lake is passed, near which is goo£|jfl camping ground for teamsters, b_f|fl short of wood for pedestrians camp.^9

The distance between BiddelTs audi Brownlee's, the next accommodationJ| house, is thirteen miles, where a nud|| way house is often wanted, at present some provisions, &c, are itf be got at one or two road stores. This road runs along a sort o|| undulating valley, with three orfoajg rather strong running rivers or streanS to cross- down the somewhat high _q|| steep banks of which good roads been cut, and across two of them ri>4i| pole bridges or crossings have bed! placed for foot travellers, availab]|| except during freshes. A considerably! portion of this valley, over which tfii| dray road passes, is of a somewhat w_g or spongy surface ; but side draoH have been cut, the road well formaf! and much of it already, metalkjaa whilst the work is still rapidly being proceeded with. Of the accommodJ| tion at Brownlee's, which stands inff! somewhat pretty limestone cotmttjß with plenty of timber at hand, W& know but little, but the propriety seems possessed of a good share JB civility and desire to aecommodajH and expresses a determination to ev|B plenty of accommodation, whilst keeps a fair supply of stores; and ijw I presume that the traveller wiHjfß least, find comfort equal tothatffajjß vided at most, of what I term, v btnfl hotels," or the accommodation lookflß for by " swag-men.*' " §m I Proceeding forward from this $|jfl | telry for a distance of five miles oafl similar country, with the road neaaß if not all, completed; the somenß pretty Buckenua creek is which on my trip across presentiffi lively aspect. The mfxture camps, and travellers of created somewhat of of a smajVßnglish country fa_ySv_||g the traveller finds the but comfortable Black Ball where most necessaries of can be had at prices, when <***lgsH with some establishments, any||H but extortionate. The propneto*l|H accommodates travellers with cotnjnH able bush meals, beds or iihiitiiiiliMJß and I believe is about to obtljfl license. For business individual rejoices in the titleof**l*Wß pool Dick," which, to many would imply that the place waajnH by a rough navvy j but not SAH&iH more truly- civile j_B such circumstances; tnoronghljfr<jft|B vant, having travelled experiew^man^ ift night can be well spent m]J&'|aH pany. _ JThis. gentleman has and. is about to gol&wsavH machine, tS be M*&so&*riM and from the' descriptjpa I invention, more especially saving jjarts, to l&i p&&fa&m& Bf9 and likely to. P^ T & amongst the black that a small portable -? t^oa-t 11 would in many instances tema&i&M ah&as a. dmrngsßowtg.i.-izQXi * ■ - '<%____ A. two anda-half miles dowahi&fiiM ithis place, - Chaigiebiim the.second Escort eatabliahmwit!___ reached. The mail coachnw|M 'final change of horses at the *t*f*|9 fine team which stands !«%)■ the somewhat axdaons ta-ko? the coach tbrougn totbo ship. Mr. .Horden has ereefe4a]_fl stone house' near the' which is formed at this placA joining the main road ; it.is intended ibr pnblic accdgittp4jp__j and is weß:adaptediJfor anA|M*«B Craigieburn. named, the hilla arpnnd craggy _nd of water running 1 the'lake. RrcW. few miles onward, -the an open country, or rather a fiwonQß wide, gently undulating *asa& !■ land in which - is generally a coi-dderable extent goon. a 6 nt ?rfSW sop, with. 1 plenty of timber at reasohalte awgM for all practical; pagwees, and that not only is the. 2j!____ desirable for settlement « ni ___9H tion, but that* i|JM?fe3irj£ggH that it should, ap^uj into cultivation m order play to overland traffic, lis without such expenditure' on road wocts. comparatively useless. possesses natural ment; iMatho laaton upon care to expend- Jus labor. more _mvi half, way to Coast, and is far. beyond impediment "Porter's pass;" carrier cool- obtain; feed in such district, at Christchurch prices, » some pounds per ton in tlhi > *fffs§__„ cartage must" inevitably from; whilst coach and /**r|sH

t-iffic would also lie equally benefited thereby, for even tfie oot traveller would get the advantage of cheaper stores along the road. Whether the country is sold I know not, but be that as it may, so far as the public interests are concerned, it is equally desirable to secure the cultivation thereof, and that with as little delay --possible, and if willing cultivators arti scarce, it would be well for encouragement and even assistance to be given to practical men of energy, who. short of means for judicious improvements, are always worth the outJay- and if. owners of land advance for tlie'actual necessities, they have the labor of the occupant, as well as whatever their money is invested in, as security. But, returning to the rbad, we find at some four or five miles from Cragieburn, another new and rather large accommodation-house, nearly completed— between the former place and Goldney's saddle, some four or five stores or shanties have, for some time, had existence. Several small streams have to be crossed when approaching Goldney's saddle, the surface of which is of a cold, "weeping" nature; but the j road has been formed with drains oni each side, is well metalled, and of easy gradient, and consequently is as good travelling as almost any portion of the road. Immediately across the so-called saddle, the banks of the dreaded Waimakariri are reached, where the road for a mile or more is cut along the top of the bank, sometimes rather high, steep, and dangerous, and would certainly be the better for a fence, as recommended for Porter's pass. After about the distance above stated, the road descends into the bed of the river, which at this part, when low, is divided into several streams, twisting about across about a mile of shingle and boulder beds; and from here, with but one slight exception, the coach and other wheel traffic, as well as that of horses, cattle, &c., have to keep the bed of the river up to the Bealey township, a distance of nine or ten miles. It is fearful heavy work for horses to drag loads along so many miles of loose boulders and shingle, constantly crossing and contending against rapid streams (running the Bpeed of mill races), with ever-shifting bottoms, creating doubt in the minds of drivers, and occasionally coming in contact with unseen boulders large enough to throw any horse off its feet, .or capsize any two-wheeled vehicle.

Pedestrians never ought to attempt this river except certain of the ford; being able to see clearly throughthe water, and taking care to have the leading foot firmly placed before raising the other. At about six miles from the Bealey, the road crosses for some mile or more a shingle flatj slightly raised above the river bed, and on which there is a little coarse vegetation; here is a packing store and shanty combined. Returning to the spot where we descended to the. much dreaded river, Mr. "Wright, tho engineer and contractor,/has ;astore* erected for the wxpnjjkpi' his workmen, a strong army of whom are employed in making what is now termed the bridle-path into a dray roajd;. the track is at present used by peeping them clear of until opposite the Bealey township, where a ferry boat will be found, which I strongly advise all boat travellers to avail themselves of. "When complete, this, road will also enable coaches and all other traffic, to keep, clear qf, .the river until opposite the I town of Bealey. But it is an exceedingly ¥old road, that will need nerves ol\ steel to "tool" a team of four or six spirited nags along some of it. At some points it is a great height above the river, with nearly perpendicular hanksj and the waters below rushing in deep, confined channels close to the base with a velocity that would render and certain, even were it possible for a.person falling over the cutting to have life left on reaching the stream. And thus my remarks about fencing are still more, applicable here j at imv rate it would create confidence, and thereby go half-way towards promoting,, security. I consider that in some-respects Buch fences are superior to dead; walls,, as whilst affording procan be seen, and if any sums Skely to occur indications thereof would-often be observed. They answer the purpose in Otago, and might do However,Tiaving arrived at the great town of Bealey, and having spun n>yyarn:to,a terrible length,! must, make this the end of Part I. S _ To be continued.