AUTUMN IN THE ORCHARD

Auckland Star, Volume LXX, Issue 99, 29 April 1939, Page 14 (Supplement)

AUTUMN IN THE ORCHARD

Garden Notes

THERE should be no undue haste in regard to harvesting apples and peavs, but little is gained by leaving the fruit hanging on the trees once they are fully matured. Just when an apple or pear is ready inny 1>« a matter of ex[>ert judgment, for it, is not difficult for an expert orchardii»t to say from an almost casual glance whether a fruit i« ready or not. Actually when a fruit is fully matured tlio n;iliinil way is for it to fall; consequently, it we wish to get the most of tlio crop we must be pre [tared to pick the fruit a few days before it is fully ripe. When you pick the fruits handle them as carefully a« |x»sible. Small and flam aged fruits should be picked out at the time of gathering. Once an apple w damaged there is no way of preventing its quick decay. As soon a« the crop is gathered a start can bo innfie with the pruning, or at leant, the first of the pruning. This consists of cutting out dead and useless wood. At present it is easy to see dead twigs, anil alno inside and iwcless wood is much more easilr seen. Shortening of the leading and main branches can be left, as with a spell of moist warm weather there may be a tendency for the top buds to burst into leaf or flower. However, even if they do, it is not sufficient to be detrimental to the following season's crop.' One thing about pruning, it is a mnch more pleasant job when the weather is fine and warm and the ground comparatively dry than when everything is wet and oold.

Probably more attention to the proper spacing of the main branches, and lees to the shortening back of laterals, would „j ve better results . is always advisable to cover any fairly large wounds when pruning is in progress, and for this purpose a coat of tar or white lead paint is recommended. Grease-banding for control of the upward crawling insects should be done this month, April. Some reject the use of grease bands as not worth the trouble, However, jf the band* are put on, it i« surprising the number of insects that will be caught. Certainly it is not a 100 per cent cure, but it is quite a valuable asset t-o the spraying operations and does help to control insects, not forgetting the codlin n,ot ""

There are different mixtures on the market; all are more or less reliable, a» all that is re< l uire<i is a non-drying grease and also one that does not liquify at ordinary summer temperature, A band of greaseproof paper or sack>ng is put around the stem of the tree 12in to 18in from the £ roun<l lev ' el > a™* ™ S th ° &**** ° F * ticky mhcture is Ther ' e are other mate rials in which corrugated paper is treated with a chemical, and bands of this are placed around the stem. When putting on the band* tack the top edge quite close to the stem; tinned tacks are all right for thi3 purpose. The bands should be examined occasionally to see that they are working properiy and any insects that may be hiding under the band should be removed and killed. The bands need only be

about four inches wide, but if they are six or even eight inches it will not matter. Plum# do crop well in some places, but it is not uncommon to hear of cases where they will not fruit. Where a plum tree is not cropping owing to the sterility of its own pollen there is no means of effecting a satisfactory result, only by planting another fertile Isort in close proximity. Plums, however, often throw vigorous shoots and pruning only has the effect of making them grow faster. Where such is the case confine the pruning to the cutting out of dead, thin and weak inside wood. The long leading whip-like growths should be left unpruned until after the flowering season is over, when they can be checked, but not cut hard. Most plum trees suffer from overcrowding of the branches and the centres of the trees are usually far too crowded. This cutting or thinning should be done now, and with the plum, in fact all stone fruit, it is essential to cover the wound with tar or white lead to prevent the silver leaf fungus from obtaining admission by means of the open wounds. Trees that have shown signs of silver blight should be removed and the limbs, roots, etc., should be burned at once. Cures for this disease have been claimed, and in some cases there has been apparently authentic cures, but so far there is no sure cure, and one can only advise the cutting out of the effected trees. Even where only part of a tree is affected and the limb is cut well below the point of infection, the remaining portion is not long before it falls a victim to the disease. To prevent the disease attacking clean trees the most important and only safeguard is to cover all wounds as soon as made with a sterilising cover, such as tar, ete.