JAPANESE THRIFT.
RECONDITIONING KIMONOS.
THE COMPLETE ART. Nvubai, or rainy season, in .Tapijn, which continues from around June 11 till July 10 or 12, is usually considered the best time for housewives to begin ripping and washing their winter kimonos, bed quilts, cushion covers, etc., which have been used during winter and spring. These are mostly hand-made, therefore the stitches are undone very easily. When kimonos liecome soiled or worn out, they are ripped, washed, stretched and made over again. A worn-out edge of a bottom hem is cut off, the right and left sleeves exchange positions, and various other ingenious methods are employed in making over the worn garment. Some silk ones are sent to the dyers and redyed in a new pattern. Each kimono when taken apart is earefully tied up in one bundle, the little pieces and all. Sometimes they are sent to the cleaners i>nd dyers, called "Arai Hariya," professionals who wash, clean, dye and stretch any kind of kimono cloth or drapery. When the work is done at home, they are first washed in lukewarm water with soap or some soda, to take the grease off the cloth. After the washing is done they are hung up to dry, either in the shade oi out in the sun, according to the material and colours. When dried they are again sorted and tied into bundles and put away until the Nvubai season is over. One often wonders why this washing is done during the rainy season and not after, when the sky is cleared. It is a general belief that during Nyubai dirt comes off more easily than at other times!
Starch From the Sea. When the hot weather sets 111, the housewife begins her job of "Harimono," or stretching the washed materials, which look very dilapidated witli very many creases. In a bucket of hot water a sheet of funori is dissolved until it is the right consistency to starch about four kimonos. This funori is a sea product and of a gelatinous character, and has a yellow tint. It contains a very efficient cleaning property and starch as well. Women often use it for shampooing by preparing it in the same way as for cleaning and stretching materials. For shampooing, a sheet of funori i* dissolved in boiling water or may be boiled for a few minutes, then strained in cheesecloth, after which the fine gluey substance is put in a lmsin, and when a little cooled a tablespoon of tlour may be added, although this is sometimes omitted. After rinsing three or four times in clear warm water the hair is ready for drying. This simple way of shampooing has been practised since antiquity and is a native method. It leaves the hair glossy and does not give any dry effect. In the case of "Arai Hariva" the funori is prepared in the same way, only the flour is omitted and the material is steeped and crumpled in the hands (riot rubbed). Then the pieces of material; are stretched on a long piece of board about 15 inches wide and two yards long. Another way of stretching the material ! is called "Shinsi." Rib-like, fine, pliable] bamboo sticks are laid across the ma-1 terial from one side to the other and secured to the selvedges. Both ends are fastened to a pole, so that when the ribs are attached and stretched the effect is that of a hammock. The funovi is simply brushed over the cloth in this case. The materials stretched either by "Hari Ita" (board) or "Shinsi" (bamboo ribs) are dried in the suii or in the shade, according to the material. When dry they are stripped ofF the board, carefully folded and put into a paper carton ami tied. They arc then ready for sewing during the summer vacalion. The housewife docs the necessary planning in the re-making of them. Nhibori can be practised in any house and may la; very useful to anyone who would like to try it. After the dark colour is removed by boiling with chemicals, the material is dried, a large pattern is traced with a colouring called Aobuna. This bluish colouring for tracing patterns comes on a piece of thick absorbent paper, rather moist. A piece from this is cut otT, just • what is required, and then put in a dish with a little water. With a brush tlie pattern is worked. The tracing paper 1 is laid under the material but when the ' material is too thick, and therefore uni suitable for tracing, wooden rings and boards and such implements are used.
Simple ana Large Patterns. j For tying. old faded quilt materials in simple large patterns are always pre-: ferable, and easily managed. Plain running stitches worked in zigzag stripes j three and four inches wide across the width of the material or simply cross ; ways are quite effective. The thread for stitching must lie strong and left long at: the ends. When this is done the ends j are pulled and tied. The stripes must! not be confused while drawing the ends. ■ The stripes are then tied and the ends of j thread securely fastened. This tying must lie carefully done as it is the main point in this art. Next, the dye is prepared by first dissolving some in cold water gradually made tepid over the tire and finally boiling it with enough water to dye one quilt. When boiled sufficiently, it is well to strain the mixture. Just before I putting in the material, a half cupful of acetic acid or vinegar may lie added to the boiling dye. The tied material is then put into this and boiled for some minutes, about five to ten minutes will do well. Woollen fabrics require more time than silks. Care must be taken not to boil the goods too long as the dye is apt to run into the tied parts. When sufficiently boiled, take the material off the fire and rinse it in clear, cold water several times, and lastly with a half cupful of acetic acid stirred into the water. Then hang it up to dry l»i & shady place with plenty of breeze, if possible. In selecting a suitable receptacle in which to dye the material, a very simple and inexpensive way is to get a few petroleum cans and open them at the top. The edges must be smoothed down and the grease washed off. Such a receptacle is quite workable even for dyeing one woollen bed quilt. Sometimes tin buckets are used, but petroleum cans have proved quite suitable. j During hot summer months the housewife finds many ways to alter her wardrolie. Sometimes silk, cotton or woollen obis (girdles) are dyed or made into something else. Wnrn and faded underwear is dyed anil transformed. Old 'kimonos are made ii>T<> attractive l»-d | quilts. Underwear sleeves as well as i narrow girdles are often dyed in very j fascinating and attractive c<>! ; i ours.
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Auckland Star, Volume LXVIII, Issue 46, 24 February 1937, Page 15
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1,165JAPANESE THRIFT. Auckland Star, Volume LXVIII, Issue 46, 24 February 1937, Page 15
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