EVEREST DRAMA.

Auckland Star, Volume LXVII, Issue 136, 10 June 1936, Page 7

EVEREST DRAMA.

CLIMBERS' PERIL. Narrow Escapes in Daring Final Attempt. REASON TOIL ASAInSONMENT United Press Association.—Copyright. LONDON, June 9. In liis copyright wireless message from Camp 1, dated yesterday, ir which he announced the abandonment of the attempt on Mount Everest, the leader of the British expedition, Mr Hugh Ruttlcdge, says:— Messrs. Wyn Harris and E. E. Shipton narrowly escaped with their lives during a daring reconnaissance. Thereupon, I decided to abandon the attempt for 1930. After our abortive attempt on Friday to reoccupy Camp 4, a tremendous northwesterly wind continued to sweep Everest, making it obviously impossible to carry out the ascent of the nortl face, with its treacherous slopes on the North Col. Sheets of snow were flying across tlu slopes. This eauseel a debate in the camp as to whether, after the cole night followed by brilliant sunshine ant incessant wind, we shoulel find the snow safe. Harris and Sliipton undertook te risk an inspection. The two men safely scaled the firs. £>00 feet —a direct steep upward asceni in the old track. Then they began the horizontal traverse to the left wliicl we always suspected was dangerous.

Although the angle of the snow was only moderate antl the surface hard and good, without the slightest warning there came a ripping sound and the snowfield split across the surface, breaking up into ice-blocks which began to slide down towards the edge of a 400 ft ice cliff just below. Menacing Avalanches. Shipton was quietly but irresistibly carried away but Jlarris, who was behind, and nearer the top edge of the avalanche, made a tremendous effort to leap back to the edge of a crevasse on the lip of which he jammed his axe. He secured the rope to the axe and pulled , Shipton back sideways from the sliding ice. The rope tautened and was beginning to pull the axe out when the avalanche stopped just before pouring over the ice wall. Harris' prompt action certainly saved them both. In the meanwhile, another avalanche, more to the left, broke away independently. Shipton was completely out of breath owing to the pressure of the rope, but he and Harris got down safely. Their bold investigation confirmed beyond possible doubt the risk of tampering with the slopes of the North Col once the monsoon air currents have begun to decay them. But for this reconnaissance, the whole climbing party and the porters would have made another attempt to reoccupy Camp 4. • The result could only have been disastrous. Therefore the attempt on Everest by the only known route must be abandoned for 1936. It is terribly disappointing, with the mountain now belatedly in good condition, and an absolutely first-rate party ready to attack it. However, it would be criminal to send them within reach of the avalanche or that terrible icefield. As a last effort we will start up the main Rongbuk glacier to-day in order to examine the west side of the 'North Col, but as Mallory decided against trying it in 1031 and Shipton's party disliked, the look of it last year, I cannot be optimistic.