Practical Gardening

Auckland Star, Volume LXVI, Issue 170, 20 July 1935, Page 6 (Supplement)

Practical Gardening

«d fDiAWri-ius

TOMATOES

CULTIVATION UNDER GLASS. In a leaflet issued by the horticulture superintendent for Norfolk, Mr. IT Goude says:—-

The tomato is one of our most valuable crops, and of late years there Ims been a bitr increase in the acreage under glass of this crop. Besides the high homo production, thousands of tons are imported annually from the Canary and Channel Isles and from the continent of Europe.

There arc many varieties and many synonyms. Some of the best comriorcial sorts are: Ailsa Craig, Best of All. Sunrise, Stoner's M.l\, Hides' N.C.0., Radio, Kondine Red, Tnckswood, Manx Marvel, Riverside, Favourite, and E.S.I.

Sowing and Germination. For the earliest crops the first sowing should be undertaken in November (May New Zealand) ; for succession, sowings should be made in January, February, March (July, August, September New Zealand). Shallow seed boxes or, oil a small scale, seed pans or pots may be used. Coarse siftings should be placed in the bottom for drainage, and a mixture of one part fibrous loam, threequarter parts leaf mould, and one quarter sand, made up as compost. If damage by the "damping off" fungus has been experienced in the past, it is well to sterilise the soil before sowing. The rough material should be sieved out through a Jin mesh. Moderately firm the compost in the receptacles and nrir.g it to within Jin of the top. Seed should be very thinly sown—about lin apart and covered about Jin deep. If the compost is at all dry in the receptacles "t should be well watered and allowed to drain before seed sowing.

After sowing the seed the receptacles should be placed on benching in a house where a consistent temperature 01 t'O degrees F. can be maintained. The temperature should not lie allowed to fall below 50 degrees F. The earlier batches of seed should be kept covered with a sheet of glass, with a sheet of newspaper or brown paper above that. As soon as germination is noticed the glass and paper should be removed and the boxes or pots stood as near to the roof glass as possible.

As soon as two good seed leaves Arcdeveloped and the first small true leaflet appears, the seedlings should be allowed more room, and pricked out into boxes or pots. If boxes are used the compost should be very open and moderately firm. Carefully lift the seedlings from the germination receptacle and prick off about 2-2Jin apart. If thumb pots are preferred the seeds should be carefully lifted and potted. When pricking or potting-off tomatoes a benching should be erected within the house, and tlio compost should be warmed to the house temperature before using—a few hot bricks will assist in this.

Growing On. Grow the pricked or potted-off seedlings as near to the roof glass as possible. Keep the house temperature about 60-03 degrees F., lint do not allow falls below 50 degrees F. Cheshunt Research Station has proved that tomatoes receive checks when subjected to lower temperatures. Watering should always be carefully undertaken to avoid the possibility of losses by damping oil'.

As soon as the seedlings which have been pricked off into boxes or thumb pots are about 3in high and have developed about four true leaves, they should be potted on into Sin or tiO size pots. The compost should be two parts fibrous loam, one part leaf mould, one quarter part sand, and one quarter part mortar rubble. As previously advised, the compost should be the temperature of the house when used, and all potting on should be undertaken in structures which are heated to comparable temperatures with the house. If the plants are carefully watered and the lrjiit.e temperature kept around the 00 mark, good sturdy plants will be available for planting out in borders or bench boxes, or for potting into Oin or lOin pots for fruiting.

Preparation of Borders. They should be thoroughly dug over— preferably double dug. If the second spit is at all dry it should be thoroughly soaked as the work proceeds. Experience has shown that dry subsoils can never bo satisfactorily soaked wlien once the plants have, been planted. Several proprietary "base" dressings—particularly of the fish nature —are on the market. These have proved of benefit where they have been incorporated during digging. If the border soil is heavy, rather close and inclined to be poorly aerated, a good dressing of stable (strawy) manure should be dug in. Even the incorporation of neat wheat straw'' at three tons per acre has proved of benefit on rather compacted soils. Experiment has proved that an open, well-aerated and drained soil is of primary importance. If the potash content is low, sulphate of potash should be used at the rate of J-loz per square yard after digging. If there is a tendency to high and sappy growth, phosphates should be included in the form of steamed bone flour. If at all dry before planting out the borders should be thoroughly soaked i:id allowed to drain before planting. The house temperature should be kept as high as is possible by using- fire heat until the soil temperature is raised to oG or 57 degrees F. The plants may then be brought in and stood on the borders for a day or two until they are inured to the house conditions. Keep the hou'se temperature about 00 at this period.

Distances. Nothing is gained by close planting. The rows should run in pairs across the house about ISin apart and 2Aft between each pair of rows. The plants should be about 15-18 in apart in the rows. Tliis allows sufficient room for all cultural operations.

If the borders are nicely moist when the plants are inserted there should be no need to water the plants until they have overcome the shock and are beginning to grow away. This is important as "collar rot" often makes its appearance after planting out. The night temperature should be s(i degrees F. rising to 65 degrees F. by day.

Commercially, the practice is to use two-ply fillis string for support; this is looped round the base of the plant and attached to wires near the roof glass. Other growers use a short thick cane and attach the string to this—as the plants grow they arc twisted around the string. Bamboo canes may al.so be used, but they add to cost of cultivation.

The growths should be kept to single stems; and if there is plenty of top room they may be allowed to run u\> unstopped. Sonic growers practise stopping after four trusses are set and by taking a leading growth from a lower joint, the uniformity of bearing is maintained and ripening of the lower trusses is accelerated.

As the fruit begins to ripen, a few leaves can be removed from the plant in order to expose the fruit to the influence of light, but the removal of leaves should always be carefully carried out, and not done in wholesale manner or the plants will suffer from the loss of foliage. General Cultivation and Pests. Watering and airing must be attended to as the season advances. When the temperature in the house rises towards 70 degrees F. ventilation should lie given without causing too much draught to the plants, and decreased at the end of the day as the temperature falls. Watering should receive very careful attention as injudicious watering can cause a serious development of cladisporium early in the season. It is advisable to give thorough waterings when the plants require it during fine weather and in the early morning of bright drying days. When two or three trusses of fruit are set 011 the plants, concentrated manures may be given. Fish and! guano fertilisers have been proved of great value. Diseases to which tomatoes ' are susceptible are damping off, collar rots, wilts and the mould fungus. Clean cultivation, attention to airing and watering and judieic.is manuring will: help to prevent the increase of these troubles.

CLAMPING . HOOT CROPS

The old method of "clamping"' or "pitting" root crops is still a very good method of storing. A well-drained and fairly dry position should be chosen and a layer of coarse straw, small tea-tree is ver.v good, should bo laid down, and on this the roots stacked. The tops of carrots and such like should lie wrenched or cut <>(1' before stacking. Keep the heap firm and run it up to as acute a ridge as possible. A layer of straw, tea-tree will do, should he laid on the roots and this covered with nine inches of soil patted firm and smooth. In the top at intervals should he a vent to let out moisture generated by heating. This can be a wisp of straw or a handful of tea-tree inserted so as to come through the soil covering. In the case of heavy rain it is advisable to cover this with-a board or something similar. Root crops that are still in the ground can be taken up and stored in this way, and the ground is then clear and can be prepared for spring crops.

CUTS IN PRUNING,

A largo number of'trees, both fruit and ornamental, are spoilt every year l>y bad pruning. Not exactly perhaps because the wrong branches are cut or not cut, but because the method of cutting is at fault. When cutting off a branch it should be cut no as to leavo as short a stump or snajr as possible. If cut leaving a snag, this snag dies back and admits disease into the

tree, and it is rty this means that silver I blight is sjiread amongst stone fruits. I Another point when sawing off a large branch, always make a saw cut underneath first; this prevents the branch breaking down and pulling a large sliver of lmrk off the main stem, leaving a conspicuous wound. Always dress a cut surface with some paint or tar, never leave it exposed for any length of time. Any wound over three-quarters of an inch wide should have an antiseptic dressing applied. Probably the bc<t and cheapest dressing is ordinary gas tar.

PRUNING ESTABLISHED ROSES

I There are many ways of pruning the rose, in fact the rose is very accommodating. and will give good results without any pruning at all. Uylcss a Certain amount of pruning is done the bushes get out of shape and the centre a mass.of uselesp half-dead wood. Then if the bush is left without pruning it-is useless to expect large blooms, although you will get a mass of flowers, liany of our modern roses are not a success unless pruned. When pruning aim at producing a good shaped bush. Cut back to good buds placed in position to produce 51 shoot where it will be required. The only rules one can give are: prune strong growing sorts lightly and weak sorts prune hard. Remove all the old wood you can, so as to keep your bushes fiynished with young wood. Cut out all dead snags that may have been left from last season.

FLOWERING SHRUBS

r USE AS BORDERS. Few gardens will provide so mud pleasure and interest with so little expense and upkeep as a border oi flowering shrubs. Those who consider that, the growing of shrubs in quantity is only for those with large gardens are making a great mistake, for even a small plot, with its often bare and ugly fences, may bo completely transformed by the deft use of shrubs. Judiciously selected and placed, such shrubs car appear to enhance the size of the garden, and at the same time afford an additional atmosphere of shelter and seclusion. The success of shrub planting depends, however, not only upon the wise selection and cultivation of varieties, but also upon their arrangement, and whjle the colours of the flowers may not play quite such ar important part as those in the herbaceous border, there is no doubt that a little trouble taken in providing pleasing combinations of blossom will be well repaid. In this connection ar accurate knowledge of the times ol flowering of the plants employed is, oi course, essential, for however attractive a combination may appear from details gleaned from catalogues it v/ill be valueless if the plants do not bloom simultaneously'. Such disappointment may be obviated by utilising combinations oi different coloured varieties of the same species. For example, a simple but effective association is to be obtained by mixing in a few light rose-pink flowering currants (Ribes sanguineum) witli varieties of a deeper shade, as foi example, Astro sanguineum, or King Edward VII.; or by interplanting the blush pink Pyrus floribunda with the crimson fiowereel Pvrus prupurea, 01 Eleyii. Similar colour arrangements are possible with the many new hybrid blooms, which provide wonderful scope in those soils in which rhododendrons and azaleas thrive. Of these shrubs, however, the flowering times are very diverse, covering a period of nearly six months, so that unless first-hand knowledge is available as to the time oi blooming experiments in colour combinations are best limited to definite groups of these subjects. It is also worth bearing in mind that it is seldom a good plan to mix azaleas and rhoelodendrons, since the bright yellow, orange and salmon scarlet colourings which characterise the former do not harmonise well with the rose pinks anel crimsons typical of the garden hybrid rhoeloelendrons, which are most satisfactory for general culture. On the whole, however, it will be far better to keep the rhododendrons atiel azaleas in separate plantations, where also they can be given the soil they most approve. Among shrubs which do well in any good garden soil, we should not on any account overlook the lilacs, which offer'consider - able opportunity for pleasing colour arrangemont, since their blossoms vary from palest lavender to rich wine red. The effect at flowering time of a plantation of light mauve and deep purple lilacs is very charming, and it may be further enhanced by the addition of yellow laburnum, which may generally be reckoneel to be in bloom at the same time. The variety of laburnum known as vossii, with its elongated flower racemes, is much superior to the common species, and one or more standards can be planted at the back of a bed according to the space available. In warm gardens where species of ceanotlius, such as veitchii may be grown with safety in the open border, the bright blue of its blossoms makes a fine contrast with yellow-flowered brooms, while for autumn effect the mauve Budelleia variabilis, forms of which vary considerably in colour, may be associated with advantage with the golden flowered shrubby St. John's wort, Hypericum patulum, or H.P. Forrestii, of recent introduction, an improvement upon the type. The majority of deciduous flowering shrubs are not exacting as to the time of planting, and this may be carried oil throughout the winter and early spring, so long as the ground is workable. It is as well to complete work of this liature as soon as possible. Do not forget to tread the soil firmly after planting, and to aflix stakes to all standard specimens.

THE VINERY.

Jf full advantage lias been taken of the recent heavy weather the work of tli ici department should now be well advanced, for with the exception of a few of the very latest varieties, most of the vines are cjuito safe for pruning. On 110 account should any measures be taken to make the leaves fall prematurely, as the returning sap has important functions to perform.in strengthening and invigorating root action. For this reason the foliage should be kept clean and intact until the leaves fall naturally. The vines should be pruned as soon as the sap has returned, and not left until every vine in the house is ready. The longer season of rest the vines have after being pruned tin? better it is for them, as the wounds caused by the knife lu.ve then ample time to heal before the sap again becomes active. After pruning and Jiefore the final painting the canes should be carefully gone over with insecticide, crushing the liquid well into every crevice to destroy bug or other pests that may be upon them. It is useless simply trusting to paint to destroy them. After removing the rough bark :i mixure of clay, soot and sulphur mixed to the consistency of paint will form an even, dark coating, leaving but few crevices in which insects can hide.

" CHELSEA."

Tlio greatest horticultural event of the year in England, and probably the world, was the Chelsea Show, which opened on May 21, 1935. To attempt a detailed description is impossible, but the president, in a brief speech at a luncheon on the opening day, mentioned i that the frontages of the groups niea- ( sured 110 less a distance than two and a half miles, while upwards of two acres of ground was covered b> the large groups in the open, and he justly added that 110 other country in the world could surpass in beauty and variety the flowers of which the many and varied exhibits were composed. Their Majesties the King and Queen were able to pay their customary visit, and as is their invariable rule they made a leisurely inspection of all the exhibits. The Duke of Connaufrht. the Duke and Duchess of York, and the Duke of Atholl also, honoured the show by a visit the same afternoon. J

CAULIFLOWERS.

SOW NOW FOR NOVEMBER. Cauliflower seed sown towards the end of July in a cool greenhouse will provide plants to plant out in September to come in about November. Pots, pans or boxes about 4in deep are filled with fine, fairly rich, porous soil, after providing the usual drainage. Make moderately firm and level on the surface and after watering set aside for a few hours to drain. The seeds should be sown an inch apart and covered with a quarter of an inch of soil. Place in a warm corner with a sheet of paper over the receptacles and the seedlings will soon appear, when they should be afforded a position close to the glass, pricking off being done in due course. Transfer to a cold frame about the middle of March, hardening off for planting out a month later. Keep the uniformly moist from the first, avoiding overwatering, which conduces to damping off. Poor soil and a high temperature are definitely detrimental. First Crop and Early London are among the most suitable varieties for early sowings.

A HINT TO ASPARAGUS GROWERS.

Mr. R. C. Gaut, of the Verdiswcll Research Station, Worcester, speaking at the annual meeting of the Vale of Evesham Asparagus Growers, said: "If you want large buds, grow female plants, and if you want a. prolific and an early yield you must grow male plants. Roughly speaking, the weight of a female bundle of 120 heads of 'grass* is about lib more than a male bundle."

TO CORRESPONDENTS

WAIPIPI (Wainkn) asks: "When to plant Soya beans, height when grown and how far apart, etc., soil Is light and sandy?— Ihe Soya bean is similar in habit and growth and needs similar cultivation to the dwarf or French bean. It is, however, taller, the varieties vary, but some grow up to three feet high. It needs a very long season of growth, as the pods are allowed to mature. It needs a welldrained, warm soil and position in full film. Sow in October, let the plants stand a foot apart in the row and the rows quite 18in apart. Some varieties will need more space between the rows. SI. (Eltham) writes: (1) My azalea is covered with lichen, a Pink Pearl rhododendron also, but as they do not like lime I am afraid to spray with lime sulphur. What spray should I use? (2) Is it correct to plant new shrubs in the scrim packing in which they arrive from a nursery?— (1) Use a white oil spray. Use it as recommended for citrus fruits, which is about 1-25. (2) There is no harm in unwrapping if carefully done, but the best way is to make the hole for planting a good size, put in the tree with wrapping intact, then cut the strings by which the wrapping is secured, spread out the roots and plant. This ensures I the least disturbance to the roots and the sacking soon rots away. G.II. (IJevonport) asks for a cure for cabbage fly, which is so very prevalent, and is doing a lot of damage to young plants?—(l) Cabbage aphis rather than the cabbage fly, or diamond-backed moth Is the insect which is infesting cabbages just now. White oil spray is the best spray at this time of the year, although to control aphis on large cabbage plants or those "heading" is very difficult; it is doubtful if it is possible to apply a remedy once the leaves have closed over to form the head. When aphis is once present in a garden it should te anticipated and after planting, ail members of the cabbage tribe should be periodically sprayed with lime-sulphur during summer and autumn. It is not difficult to prevent an attack of aphis, but at this time of the year very difficult to control it once it has started owing to the bad weather and the size of the plants. STAUGAZEIt (Mahoenul) asks: (1) For some tips on violet growing? (2) My hyacinth bloom stalks are only about 14 inches and npt clear of the leaves, can you suggest treatment? (3) Sly cyclamen in pots do not seem to be i/.aking any growth, can you suggest treatment? (4) Three five-year-old Uawsonianas have died off this year, the ground may be too damp?—(l) Although a lover of partial shade, violets give the best results if grown In the open. The protection of a hedge or wail is desirable if early blooms are required. Drainage must be good. The violet is perfectly liurdy but by planting in sheltered positions early lrlooms are obtained. The best manure is well-rotted cow or stable mpnure, but failing that use superphosphate 3 parts, sulphate of ammonia 2 parts, sulphate of potash 1 part. Apply this at the rate of two ounces per square yard a week before planting, and give the plants one or two topdressings at the rate of half an ounce per yard run of row during the growing season. Planting is best done early in September, but they can be planted from August to November. Plant firmly nnd cultivate well. If foliage shows signs of red spider or leaf spot, spray with lime-sulphur 1-120. in fact, it is advisable to anticipate disease and give a spraying in December and another in January. (2) The short steins of hyacinths are due to the bulbs not making good roots. Tlieve is nothing you can do now, but when the bulbs are planted In pots the pots should be plunged under six inches of ashes, sand, or fibre to keep the soil cool and so that the bulbs can form roots before the tops show. This is one reason, but poor soil, dry conditions at root, shallow planting. too quick forcing will all cause short stems. (3) Water with liquid manure. A teaspoonful of sulphate of ammonia and one of superphosphate in two gallons of water and used once a week will help them. You could sprinkle a little of the mixture o - i the surface and use clear water. (4) Due to a bacterial root disease ; there is no cure, pull out and burn affected trees. Treat soil with a soil fumigant, 1-100.