If we take one end of a tablecloth or rope while someone holds the other cud, and we shake it, a wave will be seen to. pass down the length of the cloth or rope. The particles of material, though, do not progress forward. It is the same with waves in the sea. They appear to progress towards the shore because the shake which causes the waves is given by the moving body of the deep sea. There is nothing on the shore to shake the water back into waves.
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https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/AS19340322.2.135
Bibliographic details
Auckland Star, Volume LXV, Issue 69, 22 March 1934, Page 15
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90Untitled Auckland Star, Volume LXV, Issue 69, 22 March 1934, Page 15
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Acknowledgements
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