TO CORRESPONDENTS.

Auckland Star, Volume LI, Issue 254, 23 October 1920, Page 20

TO CORRESPONDENTS.

AM.ATF.rR (Itemiiernl says: On my nectarine tree I have discovered :i sore on one of the hrnnvlics, composed of gum and sawdust, ;iml underneath were two deep holes evidently made by Insects. The. tree has now developed n sore on the leaf (one enclos.vll, and practically every leaf Ik attacked.—The <-nuse is t.he "Jiorer." <Ju over Iln> tree and whenever you find h holp squirt In some, ■benzine, petml .or kerosene, liy means .1? a small oil can or syringe. Humi plus the hole with. clny. The leaf trouble is -'lent curl." and has no connection with the "horer." ns It Is due to n fungus. Spray ■with Bordeaux Mixture (summer formula* or lime-sulphur solution (obtainable from seedsmen) \ part, water 50 parti. Give, two or three spraying at Intervals of ten or fourteen days. MICHAEL (Epsom) sends plan of section for suggestions for planting trees, , ■shrubs, and If possible general layout. 1 <2l IWBat disease eniiM'S the leaves i>C Tose bu.shes to develop spots, and the best spray to use?—(l> The plan will be dealt with later. (2> See answer to "Ignorant," lEdendale. fourth question. S. N. G.UVSS nVhakatnne* nslts: Ul Have double primroses -gone out of fashion? I Tememher seeing about purple doable primroses in Ireland, but finvi! only seen yellow and white ilouhle primrones In Auckland. How did doulilfl primroses come into existence? If from seed, why not from seed again, as In stocks, etc.? (21 'How .should carnations attacked with rust be treated? 'Some iplanted In a sunny position are not so -badlj Attacked a« some In the shade. although the soil In tne shady po.*itiou is the best. (3) What is the name of the nnrloscd grass? I call It variegated twitch, for it Is equally ns 'bad a pest.— •(1) iDouble primroses have not pone out of fashion, but they are one of those 'plants, that are modest ami sekioni appear In a shop ■window, "the sign of fashion." They ore. not tho best of subjects to grow, especially In Auckland, preforing « warm moist climate, such as i-s found in Ireland and the West of Scotland. They are the result of selection and cultivation, aa in the case of H l double flowers. If seed could bo obtained a certain percentage would come true, but the trouble is that the stamens, etc., 'the parts of the flower essential for seed. -production, are changed into petals, and consequently Hit.le or no seed .i* produced. By careful selection It is possible that as with other thiiips a seed producing strain which would give a fnr percentuso of double flowers could be raised. (2) The fact that the plants shaded have the most rust answers the -whole question. The carnation will not ■Btand any shado or excess of moisture. It is a native of limestone cliffs, and although we Tilant in good soil, manure and water well so ns to produce lnrs<» Wooms. It Li an artificial method, and Iβ <lone at the expense of the constitution of the plant, with the result that varieties deteriorate after a 'few yenra nnd ■fall out of cultivation. 'Spray with IRordeanx mixture or lime-sulphur solution, and always plant in a fully open and exposed position, and one well drained. (3) The grass Is Phalarls arundinacoa variegata. and is equally bntl as twitch if allowed to set out of control. lON'ORANT fEdendaJe) writes: (I) Cauliflower iplant-s showed several semi-traus-T>arent patches on the leaves which later appeared to scotch. New leaves were curled and <lrjr looking. All diseased leaves iwere removed ami burnt, and a spraying with lime-sulphur. 1-100. given. Was this any good, or should the plants ■have been rooted out? (2) Is there any efficacious remedy foe broad 'heaps after the plants have become affected, or should the plants in all cases be pulled up and burnt? (."!) "What is the best (ill •round artificial manure for using In a liquid form, for vegetables and ficvwe.rs, and how often ehould It be used? (4) A number of leaves on new shoots of roses have a shrivelled appearance at the and older leaves have a number of ■brown spots showing on them. What is it, and what is the remedy? (ii) "Would it 'be possible to get flowers the whole year round by plajitln;? bulbs only? ■Could you clvo a short list of the best to plant w4th this object In view?—<(l) The trou'hle Is a mil-dew fPeronospora ■paralitica). This does scrions damage to turnips, oablMiEes. etc., during certain seasons. 'Nearly all wild plants -belonKlnv to this family suffer, and consequently clean cultivation is one of the chief preventives. You did quite rkrht In sprnylnj; the plants: .particular attention should be. given to the under sides of the leaves. Infected soil should be dressed with lime. (2) There is no remedy once broad beans are bndly affected, you call only prevent the <3is«ase sprcadlnz by spraying. Once the crop is gathered, or when the haulms are pnlletl up they should be burned. CO No .particular urtrnYinl 'ran be recommended ns tile best for all purposes. Ulnst of them only supi.lv one kiml of food. Peruvian guano l< the one that ■would be*f meet the requirements of complete manure, and which .-ould ha used ■ill a liquid form. One ounce should he dissolve In a jrallon of water and ipplierl every ten days or so. 14) The trou-hle Is IBlack K-pot. a most troublesome rosm disease. One tablespnonfnl nf formalin in :i -gallon of so-ft water, and the plants sprayed two or three times jit ten days' Intervals. This solution must only ■be used durlns the evening after the sun has gone down. (.".) It is possible to get flowers by plan-tine bulbs. l>,ilTodils nnemones. ranunculus, etc., planted In autumn: VilhimP. mombretias in spring: belladonna llllv*. hn-hcnallau planted in ■midsummer. It would be ton ■loni: for this column to give mimes <,f ~11 bulbs, time r.f plan tine, and lluwerin'' They will probably be dealt will, durimi the season by a number or para-ranhs on the Tnrious kinds. ' BEGONIAS. i TJje fo.lia.ge varieties of begouiae hlioulj be potted in a loose compost. Rotted turf, leaf mould, in equal portions with a little sharp Band added is -a good mixture. Tuberous varieties need a heavier mixture of about two parts loam, onepart leai -mould, and one part sand. Keep the bulbs near the surface, nnd water sparingly for a time. The plants must be kept well shaded and cool with plenty of ventilation on the house or frame they are growing in. This will encourage a steady sturdy growth. Too close an atmosphere will give a-tall weakgrowth -with large foliage but ?mall flowers.

SHADING THE GREENHOUSE. It ii* necessary to shade all glass used in plant cultivation, such as greenhouses and frames, during the summer months, as the effect 01 the sun through it is similar to a burning glass, and unless shaded, cau.es scorching of tbe foliage, and also causes tiro much watering to be tlone to keep the plants in good liealtli. There arc exceptions in the case ■of fruit houses, and a fexv other plant-, but the majority of greenhouses and frames are used for a varied collection of plants, and shading is necessary. Of course different plants require different degrees of shade. Ferns, begonias, gloxinias, and such like will stand and require heavy shading, whilst others, such as pelargoniums and carnations, only require sufficient to break tbe direct rays of the sun. Tho best'method is to make llie shading thin, and to give sufficient coats ttx bring the shading dense enough rather than making the shading thick ami trusting to one coat being enough. The following is a good rivipe. and if thoroughly strained and made thin enough can be applied with a syringe, and when one ooat is dry add another. When putting on the shading lightly. spray it; do not put in on heavily, or it will run down the glass, and the results will not he good. Do it on a -right day, and it will dry almost as quickly as it is put on. -Mix some whiting with cold xvater fo form a paste, and add a little size or liquid glue, and sufficient hot water to make a mixture of the consistency of paint. It should be applied whilst warm to the glass. A scrubbing brush or broom and water will remove it xx'hem necessary. THE ROCKERY. Few can expect to rival tho examples of large rockeries that arc at present in existence, but many could add a very interesting feature to their gardens by providing a small, judiciously-formed rookery, on which to -grow some of those little iloral gems which it is almost impossible to grow under other conditions. The first essential is exposure to the most air and sunlight that can be obtained. "* Attempts to form rockeries and jrrow alpines, etc., under the shade and drii) of trees is euro to prove a failure, or at least disappointing. Bright cstiii can 'be endured if a cool, moist base ■lie maintained for the roots, and if shade for some particular plant is required it can be procured 'by arranging the stoneso that it is grown on the shady side. Good weather-worn, mossy, and lichencovered stones are best for rockeries, and bricks, eld china, and such-like the worst. It must be remembered -hat a rookery is. or should be, a counterpart of nature in miniature, and anything artificial is out of place, certainly, in most cases, one ha_ to take what comes, but better a few good stones than a load or two of the remnants of modern civilisation. If no other material is obtainable than old ibricks, small scoria, etc... get eomo cement, break up the Ibricks, etc., and mix the whole up as if making concrete. Put into boxes or moulds till dry, and then get a good heavy hammer and break oip into required sizes. This will give rough natural informal shupes. 'Which xvill eventually become covered in moss, etc. Do not attempt to form a rockery in a hollow or depression in the garden unless the soil is sandy and well-drained. A raised mound is preferable. Have the base well and deeply dug, and malce the mound as irregular as space permits. A good depth of soil is essential to rock plants. Use the best soil obtainable, render it firm, and let it stand to settle before the stones or their substitutes are placed where desired. These should be at different elevations, and so placed that all points of the compass from full sun to shade can be obtained as desired. Embed the rocks in. the soil at least one-third to onefourth of their depth, and so arrange them that recesses or pockets are provided for the plants. Do not use more stone than necessary. Remember that a rookery and rock avail are quite distinct, and make the pockets or recesses of different shapes, sizes, and at different elevations. It will probably be necessary to alter these pockets as time goes on to provide the correct one for the particular plant. N Some will require almost a perpendicular wall of small stones, with the plants put in between them so that, they clothe the face: this is a suitable situation for many of tho echoxarias, sedums, saxifragns, and cam? panulas. Others, such as tho shrub veronicas, require a deeper, fiat pocket, but only large enough for one plant. Some of the ivy-leaved geraniums lookwell overhanging a face of -tone, but they must be kept within bounds.

Daphne locks particularly well growing out from a chink between two large stones—much better than when grown m tho .border, xvhere its low-growing, sprawling habit is certainly against its appearance, whereas on the rockery the position fits absolutely. Lobelia in another subject which can be displayed to advantage: in fact, there iis no limit to the many things which can 'be shoxyn to more advantage on the rockery than ebsexvhere.

CULINARY PEAS. Everybody groxvs culinary peas, some better than others, few however give the consideration to the preparation of the soil that they require. To groxv them xvell dig out -a trench about eighteen inches deep. Put a layer of manure about six inches deep in the bottom of tho trench. Then tho soil should be put back, treading it. well, just putting back as much as will leave the trench about four inches deep. Let ihis trench remain for a foxy days before sowing. Ilefor. the seed is sown give the soil in Ihc trench a breaking-up with the hoe. Sow the seeds about an inch and a half apart, making three roxvs doxvn the trench. Cover with about an inch of fine soil. As soon as the peas arc up they must be protected if birds are troublesome. This is best done by stretching txvo lines of black cotton down each roxx- nbout txvo inches above the .-oil. When tbe peas are three inches high pull some soil to them: this should in- continued until the trench is full. When about six' inches high and before they fall over, the peas should have sticks or other support put to them. It is not usual to stick dwarf varieties, but they arc better and more productive it it is done. When the peas arc in llower scatter some superphosphate at the rale of an ounce to txvo yards along tbe roxv and hoe and water it in. EARLY TOMATO PLANTING. l-'.arly planting of tomatoes rs very xvell where the situation of tbe garden and the condition of the soil warrants it. They arc essentially tropical plants, and need a great deal of warmth, especially in their young stages, to carry them 'through. Choose the warmest, driest, and most sheltered position in the full _un that the garden affords. If a warm position cannot be found, or the soil is naturally wet and cold it is better to defer planting, for nothing is gained if the plants arc checked or stunted in their young stages. Plants should not be put out till continued groxvth is assured. THINNING VEGETABLES. Vegetable crops should be thinned early, partly because delay means overcrowded and weakly plants, but also because there is less disturbance if the work is done early. Generally speaking it is best to make two operations of thinning, the first, as soon as the seedlings are large enough to handle, and again when Ihey are larger, and the best and strongest plants are discernible. In many cases the second thinning need not be done till the plants are usable. This is the case with carrots, turnips, etc. In the case of some crops, the best way of doing the first thinning is to draxv a hoe through the row, leaving small bunches of seedlings nt the right distances apart. Afterwards these bunches can be thinned by hand to a single plant. In the case of peas and beans. thin sowing should save any need of later thinning. The following arc the distances to which some crops should be thinned: French or dwarf beans, 6 to 8 inches: runner beans, 12 to 15 inches; beet, 8 to 9 inches; carrots, 4 to G inches: lettuce. 0 to 12 inches: onions, 4 to !) inches; parsnips, 8 to 12 inches; turnips, fi to 12 inches. A SIMPLE WAY OF IRRIGATING DURING DRY WEATHER. Tako some large flower pots, fill the holes at the bottom so that only a tiny aperture is left. Put the pots into holes in the ground, made for them —a few inches from the root of the plants you wish to water. Fill the pots with water and leave them. One pot xvill <lo duty for two plants if placed between them—on level ground, of course.

TO KEEP OFT SLUGS. If you desiro to protect some special plants, put on your thickest gardening gloves, and cut some sprigs of gorse. Peg them down round any young plants you wish to preserve. Np slug will cross the prickles.

**THE VEGETABLE MARROW. Time was wh.u there were no vegetable marrows, but about 100 years ago a new gourd was introduced to cultivation, the Ilesh,of which was soft and buttery. This was called the "vegetable marrow gourd." Since then the affix "gourd" has been dropped and often the {irefix is also dropped and they are often referred to as "marrows'' The, vegetable marrow is a most useful plant in gardens, for they bear throughout the summer and autumn. There are positions in most ga/dens where a plant or two can be grox\-n. Perhaps there is a rubbish heap or such like; a seed or txvo sown on this, and it xvill be transferred from an eyesore into a thing of usefulness, and if not altogether beautiful, at least not unsightly. There is no need for any special manuring to grow them, as they will do in ordinary garden soil. They are. however, gross feeders, and as with all vegetables, are better for maturing quickly. When there is no room to grow the long trailing varieties, the "bush" sorts can be grown: Uip«c do not "run" but produce fruit on short lateral branch' produced close to the main stem. Vegetable marrows can be transplanted, but like all members of the gourd family, are best xvhen sown where they are to grow. Sow two or three seeds a foxy inches apart, putting thorn about an inch deep, and covering xvith light soil. If weather is inclined to be rough nnd stormy, protect from the weather with a piece of glass, a bos. or even snmi' scrub put over them will keep off a lot of weather. Seeds can be sown from noxv onwards: the best method is to make a sowing noxv and another towards midsummer, for although a plant will continue in bearing for a long time, the best fruits are obtained from young plants. They are gross feeders and require watering during dry weather, and if liquid manure can bo' supplied, they will be greatly benefited by it. The mistake is often made of allowing the fruits to get too large before using. To rcallv appreciate a vegetable marrow it should be used before the seeds are formed, so that the fruit can be boiled whole.

'• DONT'S." Don't leave faded Mowers on violas or pansies for a day. Seed pods form very quickly, and tho energy of the plants becomes diverted in the xvrong direction, resulting in a cessation of blooming. Don't cut the laxvn too bare at this season. Provided the machine cuts properly Ihe grass looks as xvell if left rather longer, Bml it suffers less in dry weather. Don't fail to shade celery for somn days after plant ing, and keep the roots moist always. This plant cannot xvithstand a check to growth. Don't allow the flower spikes of gladioli to develop far before supporting them, as they are easily broken by the wind. A light cane placed to each stake is the best method.