SOME FASHION NOTES.

Auckland Star, Volume XLIX, Issue 57, 23 February 1918, Page 16

SOME FASHION NOTES.

SIMPLICITY OF THE NEW STYLES.

Paris-made garments for the season of 1918 have been planned to please, rather than to startle. In the introduction of new styles no attempt has been made to achieve bizarre effects at the expense of wearability and serviceability. The styles are well defined. Suits and coats are either uncompromisingly tailored and ornamented or frankly elaborate tor more formal occasions. There is none of the tendenoy to touch up with a bit of trimmings garments which must needs depend for their success on good lines and accuracy of design.

For suits, coats, and dresses there is unanimous agreement on a broad, general outline developed according to the individuality of the different costume maker. The silhouette displays a well-defined waist-line, a. straight, slender hip line, and a graceful flare at the bottom of the skirt. Variety is given to the new gowns by the introduction of many forms of drapery. While a few hip draperies are used which still have a suggestion of the dead and gone barrel outline, the larger proportion of the draped gowns show the fullness arranged in the lower section of the skirt, usually at the sides. With the long draperies is often seen a narrow underskirt, visible only a few inches below the over-skirt. Conservatively narrow drop skirts are used with the long tunic, which are now shown in great variety, ln most instances, however, these tunics or draperies, are so arranged that the Btraignt line of the silhouette is retained. The straight line silhouette has made such a strong appeal to the average woman that she will have it at any cost. Panel draperies, arranged at the back and front with free sections at the sides, or panels draped over the hips with the open spaces in back and front, are taking exceptionally well in street and afternoon dresses. These panels may be slightly gathered, or in pleated form, but they are usually so weighted as to hang closely to the figure, thus retaining the straight line effect. In some of the semi-fitted dresses, the hack section of the bodice is straight, while the fronts are'sufficiently curved to show the lines of the bust. No attempt, however, is made to produce the real tight-fitting Htyles.

The choker collar about which we have so frequently spoken in these articles is one of the new features of the tailored dreas which bids fair to come more prominently into favour as the season advances. Some of these collars are boned high behind the ears, while others are softly crushed and fastened at the sides. The preference for the set-in sleeves is strongly marked, although a few long shoulder effects or kimono forms are used.