GARDEN TOPICS

Ashburton Guardian, Volume 69, Issue 268, 25 August 1949, Page 3

GARDEN TOPICS

Among- the Flowers Written for the '‘Guardian" by A. F. MORGAN. N.D.H. (N. 55.). F.R.1.1L <N.Z.> Many home gardeners who missed the autumn sowing, will be considering the sowing of new lawns. Although autumn is the best time to sow, good results can be obtained from springsown lawns, and now is the time to do the work. A fine level surface is the first essential and this can only be obtained by forking the area (not too deeply) and breaking down all lumps. Rolling by itself is not sufficient by itself to give a level surface on soft ground and the best way to find all the weak spots and consolidate them is to tramp with the heels in several directions, raking and tramping alternately until an even surface is obtained. The roller can then be used as a. final smoothing off, and the seed sown on the rolled surface to be lightly raked in. No further rolling is necessary or even desirable. Seed and fertiliser are applied at the same time, using a seed mixture of 8 parts cheWing’s fescue to one part certified browntop, and a fertiliser mixture of three parts sulphate of ammonia to one part superphosphate. Both the seed mixture and fertiliser are sown at the rate of loz to each square yard of ground. Even distribution of each is very important and to do this the area is best divided off into sections of known area and the correct weight of seed applied to each. For example each 16 square yards of ground requires one pound of seed and one pound of fertiliser. Birds will of course congregate on the newly-sown area and although they appear to eat a lot of seed are really not doing very much harm. If, however, the ground is dry they may make dust holds all over the levelled surface, and it is worth while trying to keep them off by means of cotton strands or some other device. Arsenate of lead powder applied at the rate of per square yard and raked in with the seed and fertiliser, will proof the lawn against grass grubs for up to six years. Young lawns should not be cut until they are two inches high and then only tipped with a sharp mower set well up for the first cut. At each subsequent cutting the mower can be set a little lower. This gives the young grass time to “stool out” and is the best way to encourage a close thick sward. Most weed seedlings will be killed out after the first few weeks of mowing, hut those remaining should be cut out with a knife. Hormone weedkillers should not be used until the lawn is well established. Routine Work There is every indication of an early season and it would be wise to complete any planting of trees and shrubs as soon as possible; the. same applies to herbaceous perennials of all kinds, which should be broken up and replanted without delay. Spring and early summer flowering bulbs and conns such as anemones, ranunculus, hyacinths, narcissi, etc., are making rapid growth and can be encouraged by stirring the surface soil aiid working in a little fish manure or blood and bone. Other spring subjects, polyanthus, wallflower, iceland poppies, violas, and forget-me-notS, should be given similar encouragement. A good dressing of > lime worked in around carnation plants will be of great benefit at this time of the year. Odd clumps of chrysanthemums are best broken up and-re-planted in wellmanured ground every spring. They are making rapid growth now and the job should he done before the shoots become too large. For garden varieties, single, well-rooted pieces removed from the old clump. After it is dugup make the best plants for the coming season. Gladioli can be planted and do best in deeply worked, welldrained soil. Give them an open sunny position, sheltered if possible from the north-west. Flower seeds can be sown in boxes either in the cold fi’ame or glasshouse, to provide bedding plants later on. Verbena, lobelia, salvia, phlox, antirrhinum, dianthus, nemesia, and many others can be sown now, but the more tender subjects such as zinnias, ancl French and African marigolds are best left for a month yet.

Vegetable and Fruit Garden

As previously mentioned there is every indication, of an eai'iy season, and although many vegetables can be safely sown now, small sowings should be the rule, rather than making large sowings of the one thing. Continuity of supply should be the aim in the vegetable garden and is obtained by successional sowing and planting. Onions, early peas, radish, beetroot, (spinach, lettuce, silver beet, turnips and parsley can all be sown. Plantings could include shallots, lettuce, and summer cabbage. Well sprouted potatoes can also be planted in a favoured spot in the garden, using one of the early varieties such as Epicure, Jersey Bennes, Catriona, Early Rose and Robin Adair.

Autumn planted crops of spring cabbage, lettuce, and silver beet respond well at this time of year to a weekly application of liquid manure. Failing animal manure, sulphate of ammonia is the best substitute and is used at the rate of loz to 2 gallons of water. Most root crops will now be making second growth and efforts should be made to retard them so that they will not dissipate their substance in (he production of seed. Unless crops such as carrots, parsnips and beet are soon to be used, they should he lifted and stored in damp sand or soil in a cool outhouse, or in a box' buried in a shady part of the garden. Where necessary, rhubarb should now be divided and replanted without delay. Fruit tree planting and spraying will have to be done immediately if the benefit of full strength winter sprays is to be obtained. A warm sunny afternoon is the best time to spray, and whether using lime sulphur or red oil, it pays to be generous and thoroughly wet every branch and twig, even to the extent of going over the tree twice to ensure this.