GARDEN TOPICS

Ashburton Guardian, Volume 66, Issue 304, 5 October 1946, Page 2

GARDEN TOPICS

FLOWERS AND VEGETABLES (Written for the “ Guardian ” by Mr D. H. Leigh). PLANTS UNDER GLASS Divide and repot cypripediums. The roots should be carefully washed before potting them into the new compost. Gloxinias started into growth should l-eceive light and regular syringing. Hippeastrums coming into bud should be given weak liquid manure. Old plants, of streptocarpus should be repotted. Make sowings of zinnias, salvias, celosia, kochia and other half hardy annuals. Pot up rooted cuttings of dahlias. FLOWER GARDEN Sow seeds of giant sunflowers and the smaller dwarf bronze hybrids where they are to flower. In selecting the site, remember that the flowers always face toward the sun. Beds of tulips, mijosotis, anemones and ranunculus will soon he in full flower, so have the beds looking neat and tidy. The tulips; and ranunculus will probably have greenfly on them, so spray them with Black Leaf 40. Use a teaspoonful to one gallon of soapy water. These insects spi’ead virus disease, causing striping in the tulip blooms. They also cause had discolouration of ranunculus leaves.

Top-dress roses with a good organic manure or fertiliser at the rate of one handful to each square yard, and work it into the surface with the hoe. Ground where dahlias are to he grown should be well trenched 18 inches deep and enriched with plenty of rotted manure. Sow annuals in the open border. Prepare the soil by forking it over and making the surface smooth. Prune flowering trees and shrubs that have finished flowering, especially those that have outgrown their position. They can be cut well back, or the longer shoots only need be removed, according to position. Annual pruning of forsyttiia is not really necessary. In order to keep various kinds of evergreens in bounds, the larger shoots, should be cut back or drawn out to their base in order that too many cut ends may not be exposed to view.

Spraying After the mild winter we can anticipate early infestations of greenfly and other aphides. No time should he lost in checking the rapid multiplication of these viviparous insects, and continual vigilance is necessary if the attacks of these pests are to he baulked at the onset by timely spraying. Pests which feed on the leaf and stem by eating the tissue are dealt with by using a stomach poison, lead arsenate being generally employed for this purpose., Sucking insects which feed by piercing the epidermis of the plant and sucking the sap are destroyed by means of a contact insectide which covers the body of the pest. Black Leaf 40 is the best for this purpose, using soft soap suds to act as. a spreader. A dull and still day is the best for spraying, or it may be done in the evening without fear of scorching the young growths.

Plant Hormones Synthetic plant hormones such as Weedone, Fruitone, Rootone and Hortsmone “A” are complex substances synthesised from chemicals in the laboratory, and are the results of very extensive research work in various parts of the ivorld. The practical use of these substances speeds up various garden operations, and adds considerably to the percentage of success. I wlould certainly recommend garden enthusiasts to obtain small quantities of these hormones for experimental purposes. They are now being successfully manufactured in New Zealand.

VEGETABLE GROWING Though most of us have only a limited space for vegetable culture, we can, however, make the ground go much further in the way of production and selectivity by skill in digging, trenching, manuring, mulching and cultivation of the soil, also by selecting varieties that respond generously to fertiliser, and by planting them more closely than is the custom. Experiments have shown that some varieties respond nearly twice as well to increased nitrogen than do others, and what it true of nitrogen is also true of phosphates. Where time does not permit for extensive vegetable growing, it is far better to have just a small piece of ground, concentrating on this ample fertilisers, compost heap humus, ashes, and garden refuse, and planting varieties that revel in rich soil. In this way fertility is made full use of, and with the judicious use of fertilisers and lime, crops can receive their particular requirements of plant food. There is also a greater chance that such vegetables will contain their maximum nutritional values. I refer particularly to the culture of cauliflowers, brussels sprouts, celery, sweet corn, broad beans, kohl, rabi, leeks, tomatoes and salad crops.

Outdoor Tomatoes Outdoor cultivation of tomatoes in our varied, climate is not an easy matter unless care is given to soil preparation, and adequate protection in the early stages. The best site is one in which there is ample shelter and exposed to the full sun. Supports are best placed in position before planting so as to prevent future damage to the roots. Disturb the roots as little as possible in planting out, and plant firmly. Mulching, watering, and surface cultivation is all that is necessary to encourage healthy growth without the aid of stimulants until the first truss of fruit has set. It is then advisable to feed the plants generously with liquid manure and concentrated fertilisers. In preparing ground for tomatoes rotted leaves, lawn mowings and compost heap material are ideal, together with a light dressing of super-phospliate at the rate of three ounces per square yard.