THE GARDEN
GENERAL ROUTINE WORK. (Written for the “Guardian” by W. B. Brookie, N.D.H., N./.) PLANTS UNDER GLASS. Cyclamen as they go out of flower should have the water supply to them gradually 'reduced. A good place for them at this stage is in a cool glasscovered frame. The conns are again started into growth late in January. Seedlings in pots should he kept growing steadily in a, minimum temperature of 60 degrees, rising to 65 in the daytime. These' temperatures are not essential, and may be much lower, hut they give the most satisfactory results. To make standard fuchsias, rooted cuttings are grown first in tour-inch pots, and thence, when large enough, in seven or eight-inch pots. All lateral growth should be pinched out until the desired height is obtained. To encourage strong stem growth, however, it is advisable not to pinch out the laterals until they are a few inches long, as they help to draw up sap to. the terminal growth. Two to three feet is a suitable height for standards used in summer bedding as dot plants. At that height the leading shoot is snipped off, and the laterals immediately below are allowed to develop to make a bushy head, hut they, too, should be pinched back to cause them to branch. Such standards may be used for greenhouse decoration during the first summer. Established plants for use in the flower beds this season should have all of the young shoots stopped about three weeks before planting. During this period they must he gradually inured to open-air conditions in full sunlight. Sow cinerarias in shallow pans of finely-sieved soil containing a good proportion of - lcafniould. The small seed requires covering with just a mere dusting of the seed! soil. Cover the pan with a. sheet of glass and shade with brown paper, and stand in a draught-free position on. the greenhouse bench or in a closed frame. The ’safest way to water the, seeds is to stand the pan in a shallow basin of water. When large enough to handle easily the seedlings are pricked oft into boxes, spacing them two inches apart.
THE FLOWER GARDEN. 'J& In the herbaceous perennial section delphiniums will need staking and tying. Some of the weakest shoots may be removed from the base. Miehaelmast daisies, thie tall-growing heleniums and rudbeekias will require to have the shoots rather drastically reduced in number. In the case of niichaelmas daisies the small divisions that were planted over a montiii ago should be kept to three, four or five shoots. By thinning at this stage the remaining stems get the benefit of light and air. Later, each, shoot should be tied in separately to a. thin, strong stake. After the work of thinning is completed the whole of the border should be hoed to suppress weeds. Spaces may then be planted with stocks, clarliia, antirrhinums and any other annuals that are available. Seeds of sunflower may be inserted here and there toward the back oif the border, marking their position • with a smail peg. Apart , from spring-flowering bulbs, plants in flower in the herbaceous border at present include: doronicum, with yellow daisy-like flowers, Dielytra "spectabilis (the lyre flower), Asphodeline lute® (the King’s spear), oriental poppy, Geum variety Dolly North, Iris pumila and various rock garden subjects which may profitably be used behind a, reck edge such as mossy phlox, aubreitia, arabis and Alyssum saxatile. Out out old deteriorated branches of forsythia to encourage new growth. Straggling shoots should also be cut well back.
„ Rhododendrons may still be transplanted provided they are lifted with 11 large ball of earth and kept well watered during dry weather. A mulch of rough leafniould or rotted vegetable litter will help greatly in conserving moisture about the roots.
Keep the surface soil in the shrub borckr loose by frequent hoeing. A far greater number of shrubs arc in flower during October than in any other month, so a special effort should be made at this time to maintain the herder and its surroundings in a tidy condition. Petunias and salpiglossis are useful for brightening spaces toward the front during the summer. These may be planted as soon as plants are available. THE KITCHEN GARDEN. Apple and pear trees should he sprayed for the control of. oodlin moth when most of the flower petals have fallen. User arsenate of lead paste or powder at a strength as directed on the container. Some soft soap dissolved in the solution will ensure that the poison, will be evenly spread. Apply the spray with some considerable pressure and directed! particularly into the fruit clusters. All fruit trees are benefited by a. top-dressing of superphosphate at this time. The manure, applied at the rate of cue pound to 10 square yards, should be lightly forked into the ground. Sulphate- of potash may also be applied, using half a pound to 10 square yards. It should be remembered, however, that these artificial fertilisers do not make up for a lack of humus in the soil, and that unless this product of decayed organic substances —humus — is present in sufficient quantity their use as it affects the quality and quantity of the fruit and the general health of the trees will he unprofitable. Raspberry beds should be hoed frequently to suppress weeds and suckers and to maintain a blanket of loose earth with the object of conserving moisture.
Sow runner and dwarf beans, and continue to sow gre'en peas at fortnightly intervals to ensure a. continuous supply. Support the green peas Aditli branch stakes when they are two inches high. No time should! be lost in sowing onions. A rich, deeply-cultivated soil suits them best, but it should be Avell consolidated before sowing. Make the surface quite level and raked to a fine tilth, and sow thinly in shalloAV drills 14 inches apart. Leeks may still be. sown to provide plants for setting out at the end of December. Sow in a- two-inch Avide drill in very rich soil.
White butterflies are again active and laying their eggs on cabbages. Young plants should lie sprayed Avitli derris or arsenate of lead. Continue to make small soAvings cf lettuce, radish, turnips and globe beet.
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Bibliographic details
Ashburton Guardian, Volume 63, Issue 3, 14 October 1942, Page 6
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1,037THE GARDEN Ashburton Guardian, Volume 63, Issue 3, 14 October 1942, Page 6
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