SAFARI IN AFRICA

Ashburton Guardian, Volume 58, Issue 191, 26 May 1938, Page 10

SAFARI IN AFRICA

OVER NARROW TRAILS. INVALUABLE PORTERS. Air lines strike across Africa and motor roads also zigzag through desert, bush, and jungle, writes Lawrence Green from Cape Town to the “New York Times.” But there are still many far outposts and remote corners that can be reached only by the old, primitive ways of transport. Oldest of all is the safari afoot with porters or camels over narrow paths. In the “copper belt” of Northern Rhodesia I once met a Nigerian native trader who had walked there from the walled city of liano, a distance of more than 2000 miles, with his merchandise. He had come by those narrow trails which form a network over Africa—footpaths leading from village to village, stamped out by bare feet many centuries ago and followed ever since. You can cross the continent from Loanda to Dar-es-Salaam keeping always to these tracks, sure that you are taking the easiest possible route. There is no room on them for a motorcar.

The main roads of to-day, where railways stretch up to the highlands from the sea, are the slave and ivory caravan routes of yesterday. Such a one is the Arab highway leading northwest from Mombasa to the Congo and beyond. The present Lobito Bay railway tracks are laid over the bones of thousands of slaves. And further north, still bearing an old-fashioned cavalcade, is the Lake Chad trail that begins on the West Coast and ends on the shores of the Red Sea.

Bicycles are Used. On the narrow paths bicycles are seen, with here and there a swaying camel. But in the land of the tseUe fly, when pack animals cannot live, the foot safari remains the greatess cavalcade of all and the native porter with his head load is still the most reliable carrier. Such journeys may be made in greater luxury than newcomers to Africa expect. You can have drinks off the ice, hot baths, a seven-course dinner, and a. comfortable bed under a mosquito net. The equipment is split up into regulation 501 b head loads, and it is merely a matter of taking a sufficient number of porters. The Swahili porter has helped to make history in Africa. No great .enterprise in the tropics has been completed without his aid. He carried the first steamers (in sections) to the Great Lakes and guided all the explorers to the unknown hinterland. On the pay-sheets, porters appear under such names as Kjboko (hippo), Risasi (cartridge), or Riga Mzinga (fire the cannon), simply as a matter of convenience. They are strong. It is by no means rare to see the head porter dance along for a mile at the end of the day toencourage his tired companions. Shoulder loads are moved in unison at the end of a song, a juggling feat; all along the line heads jerk aside, the load shifts over with a thump. Use of the Hammock. For four centuries the “machila” (hammock) has been the white man’s mode of travel along the bush paths. Of course, there are many white travellers and hunters who would scorn to use this queer contraption; they prefer to stride ahead of the safari with the gun-bearer close at hand. But when there are women in the party or when a man falls ill, the “machila’’ will be there. In its simplest form the “machila” is a canvas hammock slung on a bamboo pole and carried in turns by a team of tenor a dozen men. The most muscular fellows are chosen. They move out of step (or the motion would be intolerable) at a leisurely jog-trot. At the best of times it is a nerve-rack-ing method of transport, often causing a sensation like seasickness. Many attempts have been made to improve the “machila.” There is now a type with one wheel, 'which redlices the discomfort. I have seen ornate “machilas” with leopard-skin awnings, polished, brass-studded poles, and teams in uniform. But I have never seen one that tempted me. Even in the sweltering tropics it is better to ■walk. Planning a Safari. The planning of a safari, of course, calls for experience. One young man left the purchase of food to his wife. Her mind was staggered by the quantities required for a trek of several months, so she made certain economies. They were almost starving when at last they reached a trader’s store. •

Pilfering is a prospect * that cannot he ignored. One traveller, nearly 1000 miles from the coast and a long way from any sources of supply opened the box supposed to contain whisky. There were stones inside, carefully chosen to make up the correct weight. Another man found curry powder in tins which should have held sugar.

Nevertheless, the safari is the finest way of all for those who seek contact with the old Africa. And no aeroengine ever sang with such romantic rhythm as a winding, ebony file of porters tramping out into “the blue.”