THE GARDEN

Ashburton Guardian, Volume 57, Issue 236, 17 July 1937, Page 3

THE GARDEN

GENERAL ROUTINE WORK.

(Written for the "Guardian” by J. A. MoPhebson, N.D.H., N.Z.)

THE GREENHOUSE.

Tomatoes must be sown in gentle bottom head if plants are required for early setting out under glass. The seedlings must be grown on without a check otherwise they do not give of their best. Such being the case, avoid leaving the seedlings in plant trays too long prior to planting in their permanent quarters. In very small houses \yhere only a few dozen are grown it is impossible to sterilise the soil by steam; bl#t boiling water poured on a fevv weeks before planting will rid the ground of a host of fungus spores and kill any grubs hibernating in the soil. Cleanliness in the tomato house is essential and all walls and woodwork be thoroughly cleaned, whitewashed or painted, long before the plants are set out. If the soil has become wpjrked put, then portion of it % should be removed and sweet soil from outside brought in. Pansies and violas that are still in hoses waiting to be planted out will not spoil if given regular attention and not placed ih the beds until the severest of frosts are over. Nothing is gained by planting them out during the present cold weather. Took over sweet peas in frames, pinch out the leading shoot to make each plant send out three lateral growths, stake each plant singly with a short twig of manuka brushwood, and dust the hexes with lime to ward off slugs. .

WHAT TO PLANT, Provided soil conditions are not too sticky, every endeavour should be made to hurry on the planting of all hardy trees and shrubs. First and foremost, the early flowering subjects should be placed ip their -permanent positions, these include the flowering plums - , cherries, apples, peaches, and such spring flowering shrubs as spiraeas, forsythias, and japbnica, etc. Among the trees it will be found that the poplars, ash, and willows break into leaf early and should therefore be planted without delay, while perhaps the last to break into leaf is the English beech. Ornamental conifers, especially . the dwarf and slow growing types, should be planted more freely. As groups they complete many a landscape picture, particularly when associated with actual planting schemes near the dwelling house. They should not, however, be placed in borders of mixed deciduous shrubs, for conifers and shrubs are two distinct types from a garden architect’s viewpoint, and the on© detracts from the other. Lastly, remember that the planting of ornamental conifers is always associated with sweeping and well-kept lawns if the maximum effect is to be obtained. From now till the end of August is the correct time to plant the above conifers, and also all evergreen trees and shrubs. Having disposed of the planting of the larger garden subjects, let ns now turn our attention to herbaceous plants and roses. The majority of herbaceous! plants are gross feeders, and many require regular splitting up. In fact lifting, dividing, and replanting is asked by a big majority if they are to give of their best. I mentioned that most were gross feeders, and, such being the case, the herbaceous border requires, besides the usual feeding with stable or cow manure, a good top-dressing with bone meal, something that is more lasting, and being a phosphatic manure, balances the tendency to sappy growth produced through too frequent applica* tions of organic manures only. Remember, too, that in the herbaceous border will he found several limelovers, including gysophila and scabiosa, and it is round the necks of these plants that the lime should be forked in.

SEED-SOWING without glass. Too often under the heading of gardening notes, and I, too, have been’a culprit, reference is made to the sowing of seeds of annuals, perennials, etc., nuder glass or in glass-covered frames. It must be admitted, however, that the average home gardener does not possess glass-covered frames, and only a small percentage possess a glasshouse. What, then, can be done? Striking success can, with a little care, be achieved by the use of muslin or scrim-covered frames. The actual, timber of the frames need not be heavy, and their size, in both length and width, proportioned to permit of easy handling. These light frames are a boon to the home gardener, apd mean the difference between success ana failure, especially in districts where drying north-west winds occur, and, on the other hand, in districts with a heavy rainfall. Choose a warm corner of garden, and make sure that the soil is absolutely well-drained and friable. Call this area your miniature nursery, and before sowing seeds work in an ounce and a half of superphosphate to the square yard. I mention super, for it has been proved essential to germinating seed' and tender seedlings. Sow the seeds thinly, cover with the faintest dressing of sandy soil, and then place the scrim-covered frame over them. A frame four feet by two feet will cover an area of the size of several standard seed-boxes, so that quite a number of different classes of annuals can be sown under the one frame. As tho seedlings germinate, lift the frame up on one side, and keep it propped up with a piece of wood or brick; then as all seedlings become stronger the frame can be lifted right off in the daytime and only used to keep off the chilly night atmosphere. But, you say, what about pricking the seedlings off to give them more room ? Well, this can be done under another frame, just as if the seedlings weti* being pricked off into plant trays. Allowing two inches between each seedling, think how many hundreds of plants can be treated in a very small space. Immediately on pricking the seedlings off, they must be watered into the soil and the scrim frame placed over them for a day or two until thoroughly established. Gradually, as they grow, more air and light can be let in from the side, as was the case with the germinating seeds, until eventually the frame can be discarded altogether, leaving the grower with as fine a batch of bedding plants as one could wish for. In very wet districts the beds could be raised slightly above the level of the surrounding soil. No, it is not essential when growing such annuals and bedding plants as stocks, marigolds,

nemesia, phlox, antirrhinums, salvias, petunias, etc., to have glasshouses and glass frames with their great amount of detail and attention so necessary for watering, etc.

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. As the days gradually become warmer attention should be paid to stimulating the growth of'peas and leaf crops sown in the autumn. Peas will greatly benefit if given a light dressing of superphosphate worked into the soil at the rate of half an ounce to the running yard. Lottuco and small-hearted cabbage can be stimulated into growth by the application of nitrate of soda at the rate of one ounce to a gallon of water, and given on a warm sunny day. Both garlic and shallots may be planted, choosing a warm sunny area, and one that will permit of the crops being ripened and out of the way in time for the. planting and sowing of autumn crops. The warmest corners should be chosen for the planting of the first early potatoes. It is useless placing tubers in ground that is ill-worked and holds excessive moisture, and expect to obtain an early crop. If at all possible plant only certified seed. You cannot tell from looking at a tuber whether or not it harbours the virus for leafroll of mosaic; but certified seed is a guarantee that your tubers are free from both. Virus diseases reduce the cropping power of your tubers by over 30 per cent., and in many cases the majority of the mature crops are under table size. , ~ , Make up seed beds in a sheltered corner (not under the overhang of trees), and sow seeds of cabbage and lettuce for future planting. Give ruhbarb beds a heavy mulch of farmyard manure, hut do not mulch asparagus beds till next month.