THE GARDEN

Ashburton Guardian, Volume 56, Issue 290, 19 September 1936, Page 3

THE GARDEN

GENERAL ROUTINE WORK. (Written for the “Guardian” by J. A. McPhekson, N.D.H., N.Z.) THE GREENHOUSE. Greenhouse climbers are usually attacked this season oi the year by greenfly which if not checked will quickly spread to the plants on the benches. £low all types of annuals and bedding plants and have them hardened off in frames as soon as they have a good root-hold in the boxes. When tuberous-rooted Begonias become too large it is a mistake to cut the tubers in half until growth has well started. The cut surfaces should be immediately sealed by dusting with either flowers of sulphur of finely powdered charcoal. The potting soil for these plants should be kept open by Ihe addition ol' line quarry chips or very coarse sand. The tubers must not be buried in the true sense of the word, but must be so potted that the top of each tuber is barely below the surface LILACS.

lu cold and wet districts especially if tho land is at all on the peaty or heavy side, Lilacs fail fo do well chiefly through tlie- lack of lime. These plants are very fond of lime and a good dressing round each plant now that they are coming into bloom’ will prove ol immense benefit. Lilacs do not require pruning like many other spring flowering shrubs, all they require is a thinning out of weak growths and the removal of all seed pods before the seed has time to set. The named varieties are usually budded on to the common privet and care should be taken to see that no suckers arise. The common lilac is a fairly tough shrub and will stand a good deal of knocking about, but the newer French hybrids should bo treated with much more care. Sometimes the question ‘arises as to how long it takes a lilac to bloom. It should bloom from the first season you receive it from the nurseryman. If it is a sucker from the old common lilac then dt might tako several years. PENTSTEMONS. It does seem a pity that the Fentstomon is not more widely grown. The new varieties are a great improvement on the old types and the plants will thrive in exceedingly dry conditions. Blunts can be set out now but seed should not be sown till November and the resultant plants set out the following spring. Readers who have dry areas under eaves or trees or steep banks and are tired ol pot marigolds and geraniums, should welcome a change over to Bciistcmons. Besides being raised from seed the plants can be increased by cuttings of the young ripened tips inserted in cool i rallies of sandy soil in February. The rooted cuttings are then planted out the following spring. POLYANTHUS.

Those delightful spring plants are always best when raised each year from seed. In very cool climates success lias been obtained when the plants have been split up and divided, but on the whole it will be found that fresh young seedlings each year give the maximum results. Polyanthus love cool root conditions, a moist soil and perfect drainage. For manures use rotted cow dung and burnt wood .ashes to keep the soil open. The best plants should be chosen now and marked for seed saving. Seed should he sown in November, the seedlings pricked off into boxes, kept growing all summer in cool and shady surroundings and finally planted out jn the late autumn.

GARDEN ROUTINE. "When hoeing among roses take care not to rub off any ol tho tender young shoots, it is so easily done that the greatest care is necessary. Finish off all work of replanting the herbaceous border and give the whole garden a thorough pointing over with the fork to let air and warmth into the soil to assist bulbs and other spring plants in their flowering. Weed and feed lawns as previously advised, romboring that a perfect lawn is better than many a flower border.

THE VEGETABLE CARDEN. Leeks. This is perhaps the most reliable green crop wc have during winter and early spring, and one that takes but little attention plus the added advantage of being free from insect and fungoid pests. Seed should lie sown in gentle heat this coming week and gradually hardened off outside. A further and later batch 'of seedlings can be obtained by sowing the seeds out-of-doors on a warm sunny bed and these will provide the bulk of the supply for setting out in December and January. Any type of land will suit leeks provided it is heavily manured, in fact it is hardly possibo to over manure for this crop. 1 o obtain extra fine stems for exhibition purposes, the plants should be treated in a similar manner to Celery, grown in trenches of rich soil and earthed up as high as possible towards the end of autumn. For ordinary purposes a shallow drill some lour inches deep is opened up, either V shaped or flat-bottomed, and with a wooden dibble boles arc made four inches deep and nine inches apart Into each hole du>p a young plant and finish off by filling each hole with water. This will settle a little soil round’ the roots of the plants and as the plants grow the sides ol the holes will gradually fall ill and commence, the first part of the work of blanching. Usually leeks are best left m the

ground until required, but in cold districts it will probably be wise to liit a batch and heel them into a sand bin under cover. Lettuce. Fairly extensive sowings of lettuce can be made from now on and euro taken to avoid disappointment by bearing in mind two essential points, namely that this crop quickly runs to seed if given a check such as lack of water, damage to roots when being transplanted, and secondly that it must, be grown fast. Plants which take a long time to heart are often Litter in flavour and much of tho outside leaves cannot be used. Sow in rich soil that has been brought down to a fine tilth, spacing the rows twelve inches apart, and thinning out to nine inches apart. If lifted carefully the thinnings, if planted in very shallow drills and immediately watered, will provide a later crop. If it is intended to use lettuce as a catch crop through rows of peas, the rows of peas should be least two to two and a half feet apart to avoid swamping the lettuce plants. Radishes. There is nothing so tasty in early spring as a quickly grown radish, and on account of the crop not taking up much room many and varied are the positions found for sowing the seed. Frequently one may see rows of them between rows of peas, beans, parsnips and carrots, and bu such methods tlio space in the vegetable garden, is conserved. Stump-rooted kinds are tho best for early use, CURRENT WORK Besides the sowing of radishes and lettuce the supply of salad crops must be kept up by sowing onions at intervals ol ; two weeks. Give them rich ground tinned on top with the roller' Discontinue showing mustard and cress indoors and start to sow tho seeds out-or-cloors, either in rows or on small beds; a little and olten is always a good rule when dealing with these two crops. Weather conditions will enable us to catch up with seed-sowing and early varieties of the following crops can bo sown: carrots, parsnips (main crop), beet, turnips, peas, beans, and celerias, while young plants of cabbage, lettuce, and cauliflower, can be planted out If herbs have not been split up and repianted, this work should not be delayed a day longer than can be helped. Sow seeds ol Brussel sprouts on sheltered beds and protect the seedlings from birds. A thorough hoeing of the whole .surface of the garden will do a wonderful lot pi good at the present time and if carried out on a dry and windy day will kill countless weeds.

Second early potatoes can be planted during this week.