THE GARDEN

Ashburton Guardian, Volume 56, Issue 76, 11 January 1936, Page 3

THE GARDEN

WORK FOR THE WEEK (Written for the "Guardian" by J. A. McPhekson, N.D.H., N.Z.) CLEANING BULBS. The first wet day should be devoted to the sorting and cleaning of bulbs in store. Loose and dry outside scales must bo removed from narcissi, and any bulbs which on pressing slightly give indication of rot or hollowness in the centre should be discarded. The best boxes to store them in are flat trays having slatted bottoms and the bulbs should never be piled more than three deep. Tulips suffer from skin scorch if left where the sun will shine on them for any length of time. Carefully remove any outside scales that fall away, but do not rub off the main brown protective coat next to the first white scales. Tulips require much careful handling. Hyacinths can have their outer loose scales removed and the bulbs then packed in single layers in trays. Ranunculus tubers must have all soil removed and large clumps pulled apart. Place in shallow trays with the tubers not more than four deep. Crocuses should be attended to early. Remove loose outer skin from the corms and place not moro than four deep in shallow trays. It is advisable to get these in the ground as soon as possible. The question of small bulbs always presents a problem when sorting. The grower of expensive narcissii will naturally line in all the small ones of his named and expensive varieties, but with general garden lots there is always a surplus. Do not throw them away but give .them to local institutions, schools, domains, and parks, where they can be naturalised in the grassland.

Rats are very fond of tulips and the place where they are stored should be made rat-proof. Rats will carry the bulbs long distances to their nests and eat them at leisure. An Improved Salvia. From the scarlet salvia bonfire has been evolved a dwarf compact variety which blooms fully a month before the old type. This new variety called Harbinger, blooms at the present time and grows only a foot in height. Though the old type grows two feet high and is not even showing signs of bloom it should not be entirely discarded, for its bloom is a glory of the garden from March till the end of April. The new variety has this advantage in that it can be used in summer bedding schemes and is in bloom when antirrhinums, geraniums, and other plants are at their best. Its vivid scarlet blooms fill a long felt want when a change from scarlet geraniums is contemplated. The plants should be raised in late spring, grown quickly, and above all things do not let them starve in the boxes. Well manured beds will give the best results. Should the weather turn very dry after the plants have been set' out, watch for attacks of greenfly and spray with any nicotine compound, this being the only p'est that causes any damage. Hollyhock Rust. It is very annoying when at the present time with hollyhocks in full bloom the leaves become attacked by a brown rust and quickly assume a sickly yellow colour. There is no known cure for this distressing disease and all one can do is to collect the diseased leaves and have them burnt. Denuded of thenlarge basal leaves the plants look very unsightly, but this can be overcome if the plants are grown at the back of borders and dwarf Michaelmas daisies or Heleniums planted in front of them. Mildews. Rose mildew is known to all, but the worst mildew in the garden this month is that which is attacking delphiniums, especially the choice named varieties. With the main flowers of these plants now past, we are liablo to neglect them, but this is only storing up more trouble for next season. All mildews form what are known as definite winter or "resting" spores which have the power of keeping alive in the soil, or garden rubbish, and even on living plants, and are ready at the first signs of spring with its humid conditions to germinate and attack the whole stock of delphiniums onco more. Get in early and spray all plants every two weeks with colloidal sulphur or liver of sulphur, using the latter at the rate of one ounce to four gallons of water. Fairy Rings. The result of the fungus which forms the familiar fairy rings in lawns can be noticed by the bare burnt-looking patches often in ring form at the picsent time. The fungus works outwards from a central spot and the area enclosed by the ring can, with feeding, be brought back to a good turf. Autumn is the best time to apply a remedy, which, if properly carried out, will usually prove effective. The first thing to do, and a point which must always be borne in mind, is to ease up the turf on the outside of the ring (never mind the bare patch) with a good strong fork, then thoroughly soak with water. It is rather peculiar that the fungus makes the ground in such a condition that it is difficult to soak thoroughly and resembles that condition of ilie soil often found round rotting rimu stumps on cut over bush areas, perhaps tin- most difficult soil for water to penetrate. When sure that the area is thoroughly soaked, dissolve one pound of sulphate of iron in a petrol tin of water and pour on at the rate of one gallon to the square yard. This should be followed next day by another soaking with clear water and the turf lightly tramped back into place. If the work can be done in showery weather so much the bettor. Always remember that the mycelium of the fungus is lying dormant for at least

a' foot outside the brown ring and it is this outside area that must be treated. THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. The Diamond-Backed Moth. This pest is early in evidence and if not checked will quickly spoil promising young cabbage crops. Spraying young plants with one ounce of arsenate of lead to two gallons of water will quickly kill the caterpillars while on older plants three parts to fully grown the above spray must be replaced with a tobacco wash to render the leaves distasteful to the fly. A summer kerosene emulsion will act in a similar manner. Be sure that the undersides of the leaves are treated, for here most of the caterpillars will bo found. • Onions and Shallots. Autumn-sown onions are now ripening fairly quickly and the tops should be kept well bent over in order to guard against thick necks. The soil can be pulled away from either side of the rows for just an inch or two and thus further assist with ripening. When the tops of shallots turn yellow pull the plants up and let them ripen in the sun. When thoroughly dry clean and string them ready for hanging up in an airy shed. Salad Crops. Further sowings of both mustard and cress can still bo made and onions, if sown on rich land, will be of usable size by the autumn. Frequent small sowings of radishes can be made, using only the long rooted varieties. . Lettuce, if given a cool root bottom, will not be long in hearting once they get a hold of the soil. Cos lettuce develop quickly from now on and each plant must be lightly tied up with raffia or a thin strip of flax, thus bringing the outside leaves into an upright position and assisting in the actual hearting. Current Work. Set out the final batches of winter green crops. Earth up early celery and leeks. Firm round the necks of Brussels sprouts and kale. The former will not "button" properly if the ground is too loose, while the latter will give only coarse leaves. Help along all growing crops by good soakings of water and feeding with liquid manure. Where water cannot be obtained mulch heavily between the rows after the first heavy shower of rain. Newly broken-in ground is often infested by wire-worm. Traps of pieces of cut potatoes on sticks should be pushed into the ground and examined every third day. Prevent fungoid disease on celery leaves by spraying with Bordeaux Mixture.