THE GARDEN

Ashburton Guardian, Volume 56, Issue 65, 28 December 1935, Page 3

THE GARDEN

WORK FOR THE WEEK J. A. McPherson, N.D.H., N.Z.) (Written for the “Guardian” by THE GREENHOUSE. Thrips Attack Gloxinias. Owing to the hot dry atmosphere experienced of late, thrips have been encouraged to attack the soft leaves and stems of Gloxinias. The result shows in a rusty appearanc e of the leaves and stalks, and the bloom buds become twisted and deformed. I he great remedy is the use of. a nicotine fumigant similar to that used for greenfly. Spraying the plants overhead night and morning with the very finest of misty sprays not heavy enough to run on the foliage is also beneficial, for thrips do not like water. Begianias. Tuberous Begonias form the chief attraction in the cool greenhouse at the present time, and will continue to give a good display till late autumn. They must, however, be fed with dilute liquid manure once the plants have filled their pots with roots. Keep all stems staked out and remove the female blooms from the double flowered varieties. Spring raised seedlings will require shifting into five inch pots. For winter work and where heat is available there is nothing finer from a decorative point of view than baskets and pots of the winter flowering Begonia, Gloire de Lorraine. It has fibrous roots, small rounded leaves about two to three inches across and when in full bloom the foliage is completely hidden by masses of small bright pink flowers. Rooted cuttings must be potted into three inch pots during this month and later given a shift into five inch pots or small baskets. One word of warning, if youv glasshouse is not provided with a heating apparatus it is useless to grow the above plant, for they require growing temperatures og 55-60 degrees. Helping Fuchsias. Fuchsias will quickly stop flowering and the leaves commence to fall if the food supply in the pots runs short. This is liable to happen from now on and care should he taken to see that the plants are well supplied with liquid manure. A yellowing and bleaching of the foliage is, on examination, often found to be caused by attacks of red spider. A good remedy is to spray the foliage daily with water to which has been added a little soft soap and some reliable nicotine compound. Keeping the glasshouse well damped down will also assist, for red spider flourishes in a dry atmosphere. Roof Furnishings. Roof climbers in the greenhouse arc liable to make excessive growth during mid-summer, and it not attended to m the wtfy of lightly thinning out unnecessary branches and shoots, will cast too deep a shade on the plants growing on the benches underneath. Hanging baskets of fern and aspai«igus are at their best this month. The latter when well grown, especially A. Springeri, quickly fills a basket with roots and must be liberally fed with liquid cow manure to keep up the health of the plant and the colour m the foliage. Some baskets will be past their best by the winter and replacements should be got ready now. Use twelve inch baskets and; after lining the insides with a layer of moss, place three young plants in each basket and pot up in the usual way, using a good rich compost containing a sprinkling of hone meal. These baskets should be ready by early winter. The reason why three plants are used in each basket is to assist with rapid furnishing. THE FLOWER GARDEN. Carnation Cuttings. During this month is a good time to propagate carnations. Choose the young shoots springing from the base and a little way up the old flowering stems. These are always a little too short for layering and in any ease they make ideal cuttings, being neither too soft or too hard. Cut off a. few of the lower leaves and finish each by making a nice clean cut just Below a node or joint. Insert them in pots or boxes of sandy soil and stand on a bed of ashes in a very cool greenhouse or frame. Where large quantities are required an entire cool, frame can he devoted to them by filling the frame with sandy soil and inserting the cuttings as they become available two inches apart in rows four inches apart. Shading will be necessary to keep out the strong light and just a very little ventilation required to keep the air ■within sweet and stop any damping off. Biennials and Perennials. Do not neglect to sow seeds of 'biennials and perennials. These will make strong plants by the autumn and be fit for placing out in their permanent positions. A note should bo made oi all worn out plants so tha t these young ones coming on can take their place. Do not coddle the seedlings once they are above ground, but keep them hardy, yet cool in an open sheltered frame. Under the above heading come delphiniums, hollyhocks, gaillardias, Oriental poppies, aquilegias, pentstemons, wallflowers, Sweet William, for-get-me-nots, polyanthus, alyssums, and a host of others. THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. Late Planting of Winter Green Crops. On account of the lateness of maturity of some of the early and midsummer crops it has been impossible up till now to find the necessary room for the planting out of winter greens. Unfortunately the land is in a very drv condition and it would appear useless to attempt planting unless an abundant supply of water is available. Thoroughly soak the laud, but if this is not possible make shallow drills with a draw hoe and run water along them. On large areas where it is impossible to water the above, a good plan is to make a. puddle in which to immerse the roots before planting. This eoncists of equal parts of clay and cow manuro made into a thick paste. A little lime and soot can be added if

there is fear of club root. This cool puddle will adhere to the roots and keep them cool until root action into tlis new soil commences. If each plant can ho given a pint of water on planting, so much the better. Plant out savoys, drumhead cabbages, Brussel Sprouts, broccoli, and kale. Lifting Potatoes. Early and second early potatoes are lifting fairly rvell this season. Do not expose the tubers to the light otherwise they will quickly turn yellow and then green in colour. If it is intended to save seed sets, do not choose them from small growing plants with stunted foliage and an abundance of small tubers for such plants are usually virus ridden and will give very poor crops next season. Medium sized sets from healthy loliaged plants giving a good return of table potatoes is what one requires for placing aside as sets. Give a final earthing up to the main crop of potatoes, leaving the tops oi the ridges slightly concave, not sharply V shaped. Current Work. Staking peas arid beans besides constantly watering and hoeing between all growing crops is the chief work at present. Do not let celery become dry, but flood the trenches in the early evening or early morning. Spray green crops with arsenate of lead (a teaspoonful to a gallon of water), to keep in check the diamondbacked moth. Thin out beetroot to* six inches apart and run the slightest trace of salt along either , side of the row. Tie up the tops of asparagus to prevent damage from winds. Tomatoes out of doors are making good growth. Keep the leading shoots tied to their supports and rub out all side shoots. When four bunches of fruit have set pinch out the leading shoot on each plant. The dry weather, is having its effect on raspberry crops by reducing the size of the fruits. Where water is layed on, give the bushes a thorough soaking. If loganberries are difficult to root from cuttings, try pegging down young vigorous branches. This month they root readily from layers. Strawberry runners may be pegged down for the purpose of increasing the stock. Loosen the surface soil a little before the actual pegging down is done and the offsets on the runners will quickly root after the first good rain. All runners not required should be removed . Seeds to Sow. A cool situation but one not spoilt by overhanging trees should be chosen for the further sowing of lettuces and radishes. The former will appreciate well decayed manure in the soil, but the latter are better without it. Parsley that has run to seed should be removed and a further sowing made to stand over the winter. Make a last sowing of French beans. A supply of spinach for late autumn and early winter use can be obtained by sowing the prickly seeded type this month. Make the drills one inch deep and fifteen inches apart. Thin out the seedlings to six inches apart.