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THE GARDEN

WORK FOR THE WEEK (AVritten for toe “Guardian” by J. A. MoPheiison, N.D.H., N.Z.) . THiE GREENHOUSE. who have grotfn hydrangeas under glass will now be rewarded wl a good display of large and [perfectly formed blooms. To obtain plants tor fiowering at this time next season, cu - tings should be inserted in sandy soil as soon as they are available and when struck, potted singly into pots.. AVhen once they have a good hold of the potting soil, place tnem outside in a cool frame till early autumn, anil then pot them into fi ve " inch pots. The plants should still be left in the frames, but given protection from early frosts. About midwinter bring them into a cool growingon house, keep the shoots reduced to one per plant, and thus obtain a huge head of bloom in each pot. The question of “blueing” should he dealt with early in their career, and treatment should start from the time tliey are potted into five-inch pots. hor the amateur with not heat in Ills gieenhouse, the hydrangea makes an ideal subject for cultivation. Schizanthus are coming into bloom and should be fed with liquid manure. For the main summer display pay attention to tuberoils ; begonias, | and pot them as they become root-bound. Pot on foliage coleus, they are ideal for autumn colour in the greenhouse. Sow seeds of calceolarias, cinerarias, and primulas, but be sure, to keep, them in a cool airy corner of the house. For quick results plant several seeds of golden gleam and scarlet gleam masturtiums in hanging baskets, they make a wonderful sight in a cool greenhouse or sunny porch. , THE FLOWER GARDEN. Owing to wet and cold weather the bedding-out of the summer display has been held up, hut try if possible to have everything planted by the m/V-tie of December. The last plants to be set out should be such tender subjects as zinnias and salvias. Nothing is gained by setting them out too early, in fact they receive a decided check should the weather turn cold and stormy. Always when bed-ding-out, keep a few extras oi eacb subject always on hand, for even in the best of gardens there is liable to be a death or two in the formal beds no matter how carefully the plants are handled.

Though lupins, pyretlirums, and delphiniums finish their main flowering by the middle of December, a second crop of flowers can be obtained if the old flower spikes are , cut off and the plants not permitted to seed. Hyacinths havo now ripened their leaves and the bulbs can be lifted and stored. Some people cannot handle the bulbs when It comes to the final cleaning off oi the outer scales, on account of an irritating itch setting up on the hands and face, and in some cases sores will appear under the fingernails. This information is gii en for those persons who grow these bulbs on a large scale. Arabis andi aubretia should be cut back and cuttings of both these plants, as well as Alyssum saxatile inserted in boxes of sandy soil, to provide plants for setting out next autumn. The first blooming of roses is now at its height, and notes should be made of desirable new varieties to order for next season. Always order early as many novelties are limited in supply. Remove spent blooms plus a portion of the flower stalk, and thus assist in forcing the sap into the new wood springing from the base. From now on the plants must be fed with' liquid manure, and sprayed regularly to keep down greenfly and mildew. Dahlias required for show purposes should receive a stout stake to each plant and only one strong shoot brought up. This one shoot will branch out quite all right and give all the show blooms required. Do not feed with artificial manures until the plants are well established in the soil. Ornamental brooms must receive attention. Prune fairly hard back to within a few buds of the old wood. This will keep tlie plants shapely ana allow for the maximum amount of bloom for next flowering season. Failure to prune results in tlie shrubs becoming leggy and to attempt have! cutting back after a season or two of neglect often kills the plants. Sow wallflower in sheltered beds out-of-doors. THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. BROCCOLI. Important Points Explained. Fully ninety-nine per cent, of amarteur growers and not a few market gardeners divide the “white headed members of tlie cabbage family into two groups, namely cauliflowers for summer use and broccoli for winter use. In the broadest sense this is quite all right, but for continuity of crops there is a very great diffeienco within the groups. AYitli tlie urst group (cauliflowers) we are not concerned this week, but give our attention .to broccoli. AVhen contemplating the growing ol broccoli, especially on a commercial basis, there is a wide difference in varieties, do not mature till late winter and early spring. These three divisions are quite distinct, and it is onlji 'by fully understanding their respective dates of maturity that gluts are avoided and a continuity of supply obtained. This is of equal importance both to the market gardener and the small holder. Varieties in Division No. 1 mature from March to June, thus providing the late autumn and early winter supply, and the seed must bo sown early in August. Varieties in Division No. 2 mature during June and July. The seed for this division requires sowing in September. This gives the mid-winter plyVarieties in Division No. 3 mature during July, August, and September, thus running into the springtime, and at a. time when vegetables are fairly scarce. Plants of this division should be obtainable for setting out this present month. From the foregoing it will be seen how dates of maturity differ reminding ‘ us that if continuity of supply is to be

obtained a variety from each of the three divisions should be chosen and. sown at the correct time. The planting of broccoli should be carried out to permit of plenty of space between the plants. Two to two and a half feet is not too great a distance. Ground that has been relieved of early crops (excluding turnips,, cauliflower and cabbage) may be used during this month in order to plant out the late winter and spring supply. Do not add any animal manure unless the ground is excessively poor, for over-rich soil tends to develop soft growth that will not stand up to winter frosts. A dusting of superphosphate, however, will help to keep the growth well balanced. Above'all, remember that broccoli require very, firm ground, and should be well tramped into position at planting time. In very open ground it may ! be necessary to again tramp the ground in early autumn. KALE. Where it is difficult to grow cabbages for winter use, the kale will be found a very valuable substitute, providing an abundance of. tender green leaves from early winter to late spring. Set the plants out this month at distances of two feet apart, and tramp them firmly into position. A good watering at planting time will carry them on for quite a while. Current Work. Marrows, pumpkins and. ridge cucumbers can be fed with diluted applications of liquid manure once the plants have become well established. As crops mature. do not ; leave the ground vacant, but keep planting, it •up. Beetroot/ for example, can quite easily be sown on land just relieved of lettuce. Late peas for autumn use can; still be sown, and if manuring is required dig in some well-rotted cow or sheep manure. On no account use partly-decomposed stable manure. It only tends to open up the ground and make it dry out quickly. Sow dwarf beans and hide any unsightly corner by sowing runner beans. If these latter are given the temporary support of two widths of sheep netting they will quickly do their work, and at the"same time provide a good crop. Swedes may be sown on land previously occupied by early potatoes. The grass-grub beetle and birds are a source of trouble to this crop until it is well, established. Plant out celery and leeks, and continue to keep up a supply of salad crops. Also make another sowing of mustard and. cress. Holidays will shortly be here, so take every opportunity to complete the thinning of root crops, and keep routine work well ahead to tide ovei the holiday season. Sow New Zealand spinach and silver beet for winter use. iPlant out kale, Brussel sprouts and broccoli.

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https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/AG19351130.2.16

Bibliographic details

Ashburton Guardian, Volume 56, Issue 42, 30 November 1935, Page 3

Word Count
1,436

THE GARDEN Ashburton Guardian, Volume 56, Issue 42, 30 November 1935, Page 3

THE GARDEN Ashburton Guardian, Volume 56, Issue 42, 30 November 1935, Page 3

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