THE GARDEN

Ashburton Guardian, Volume 56, Issue 18, 2 November 1935, Page 3

THE GARDEN

WORK FOR THE WEEK THE GREENHOUSE. (Written for the “ Guardian ” by J. A. McPherson, N.D.H., N.Z.) Readers who wish to increase any particular variety of dalilia may do so during the next three weeks. Ihe two main methods are: (A) division of the tubers and (a) by cuttings. It is tie latter method which concerns us when dealing with the greenhouse. There is nothing difficult in rooting dahlias from cuttings, and provided the house is warm, bottom heat is not absolutely necessary. Lift the tubers, place them in boxes and work some »ot round the' necks of the tubers. These when they reach about three inches in height should be cut off with a snaip knife, and two lowerJeaves on each cutting removed and the cuttings placed in boxes or pots of very sandy soil. On inserting them see that cave is taken not to bruise their bases, ornervvise decay will set in. If the cuttings are kept in a close atmosphere.it will prevent flagging of tlie young leaves, and in two or three weeks, all should he rooted. The next stage is to pot the cuttings singly nito small pots, later hardening them off in a -cool frame and finally placing them outside in their permanent positions. Some of the dwarf types of dahlias, especially those known as Unwin's hybrids, come fairly true from seed and are constant as far as dwarfneas is concerned. The seed germinates readily and if sown now will provide a wealth of bloom from late January till the frosts cut them down. All t,fie tubers may then be saved for next season. Continue to prick out teiidei annuals, and get them hardened off as soon as possible. Pot on begonias, streptocarpus, gloxinias, and coleus. Sow seeds of calceolarias for next season’s display.

THE FLOWER GARDEN. The recent rains have made ground conditions ideal for bedding out the hardier types of plants for the summer display. 'lt is a little risky yet to place out geraniums, marigolds, salvias, and zinnias in positions exposed to late frosts. At this tinie of the year especially after cold rains accompanied by snow on the ranges there is always a tendency for frosts to occur on low-lying areas. Antirrhinums, nemesias, godetias, and clarkias always made better plants if the leading shoot is pinched out. The first signs .of flower will of course be a little delayed, but the increased number of flowering steins compensates for this delay. When bedding out see that the roots are set firmly in the soil, loose soil will cause injury as soon as the ground commences to dry out. Sufficient rain has fallen to permit of any bare patches in lawns being resown. Attend to this work at once and keep the young grass well watered throughout the summer. Well established rose bushes are making excellent growth, and soon it will bo necessary to disbud, ready for the production of show blooms. Usually a good shoot produces a terminal bud and round its base one to two smaller buds, the latter are the ones requiring removal. It has been found that the application of sulphate of potash at the rate of one ounce to the square yard not only helps the young shoots to firm up better, but materially assists in keeping mildew in check. This should not be lost sight of in gardens whero mildew is usually prevalent. Greenfly is best kept in. check by spraying the hushes with any nicotine compound such as Black-leaf 40, used at the rate of a teaspoon ful to a, gallon of warm water.

The flowering of azaleas and rhododendrons should remind us of one important detail essential to the wellbeing of the plants. That is the removal of all flower heads as soon ns they are over. To permit the plants to set seeds only saps the strength out of them and often prevents the growth of shoots so necessary for the production of next season’s bloom-heads. Lilacs, too, should be treated in a similar manner. As soon as clematis montana nns finished blooming is the correct tune to thin out the shoots and cut the old ones severely back. This enables the plant to make the maximum amount of growth before next flowering season.

The ornamental brooms are in full bloom at the present time, and demonstrate to us a type of shrub eminently suited for extra dry positions. Lilac Time, Dorothy Walpole, Lord Lamborne, Daisy Hill, Donard’s Seedling, and Burkwoodi are but a few varieties which give a wealth of bloom and richness of colour far removed from the old yellow and red variety. To keep these plants healthy they must be pruned fairly hard hack immediately they have done flowering, for then it gives them the whole season to produce wood required* for next season's blooming. If your garden is very dry, try these brooms next season. Those grown as standards are grafted on to the common laburnum.

In order to keep ranuculas in full bloom, remove all spent flowers, mid give the plants plenty of water, with an occasional watering of liquid manure.

■Go over all shrubs planted during the winter, firm them into the soil, and stake where necessary, to prevent damage from winds.

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN.

Tomatoes for* the Small Garden. In most of the smaller gardens in both town and country tomatoes are usually grown along with the vegetables’ so that a. few points on their cultivation can safely be included in these notes. Two or three dozen plants will furnish the average household with a supply of fruits for salad purposes, and for this reason alone tTiey should be

considered when planning the supply of all salad crops, if a small lean-to glasshouse is available, even if not supplied with heat, fairly early crops are obtainable, while out-of-doors a spot well sheltered from prevailing winds will be found most suitable.

Good average garden soil that has been well worked and sweetened will be found quite sufficient for tlie bulk of the plants ’ food supply, but stimulants must be given, especially to help tlie formation and ripening of the fruits, lor this latter work potash is essential, and is best applied as «uiphate ol potash, 'loo often one sees a good crop of tomatoes, but, on close examination, it is found that tiio fruits though ripe looking are still hard and green where eacn stem jomi,s the fruit. Tins is a decided sign oi lack of potash. As a complete manure tlie following will be found of greatbenefit:—s parts superphosphate, z parts blood and bone meal, and 2 parts sulphate of potash, applied at the rate of iUlbs. to every 40 square yards. Tiants should be spaced two feet apart with a three foot spacing between tlie rows, and each should be trained to a single stake. By this method each plant is given equal attention, and the maximum results are obtained. Do not permit the side growths or laterals to develop, but Keep them regularly pinched out. Good trusses oi fruit will develop .on the mam stem, and when six good bundles have commenced to swell, pinch out the top of each plant. This will send all food supplies into the fruits and all should ripen long before frosts appear. To be greedy and expect tne plants to produce an abundance of fruit trusses is asking too much, and will result in many half grown and unripened fruits at the end of the season. Procure a supply of well-grown seedlings this coming week, ail’d after forking in the, artificial manures drive in a stake for each plant, and set the plants out, giving them a thorough watering alter the work is completed.

Current Work. As the weather becomes warmer some soils are liable to dry out very* quickly, and. for this reason cabbages and cauliflowers should be planted in shallow drills, in order that they may be thoroughly watered while young, and then later on the soil can be drawn in round the necks of the plants to steady them against high winds. A glance round a. number of gardens during the week proved that early sown onions, beet, and carrots had stood up to the cold conditions experienced in early spring/ and are now ready for thinning. Even early sown French beans, where care had been taken to choose a very sunny spot, were well into their second and tiiird sets of leaves, and should be ready for use in record time.

Do not neglect established l asparagus beds by allowing unusable and spindly heads to develop into- full foliage. These should be cut along with the usable heads.

On dry sandy soils where it is difficult to grow tlie true summer spinach a sowing must be made of the New Zealand spinach. Thin out the plants to eighteen inches apart and allow plenty of room between the rows. This spinach will also climb up supports of pea sticks or wire netting, and by so training t|he plants valuable ground can be saved where space is at a premium.

Lettuce that are coming to heart, but appear a litle slow can be greatly assisted with applications of liquid cow or sheep manure or one ounce of -nitrate of soda to four gallons of water. Make liberal sowings of main crop carrots, beetroot (long rooted), and parsnips. Thin out young turnips and make a further sowing. Main crop peas can now replace the early varieties, but take care, to give them plenty of room, and above all do not sow thickly.

Tlii-n all root crops as they gr-ow, and get in the main crop of potatoes. Prepare trenches for celery and see to a supply of plants of both celery and leeks.