GARDEN NOTES SEASONABLE WORK

Waikato Times, Volume 125, Issue 20917, 23 September 1939, Page 18 (Supplement)

GARDEN NOTES SEASONABLE WORK

(By "Nlkau.”) VEGETABLES AND FRUIT Plant cabbage, potato, artichoke, onion, cauliflower, rhubarb, asparagus, herds mint, thyme, sage, chives, parsley, etc. , lettuce and silver beet. Sow all the hardy vegetables which arc appreciated by the household—carrot, parsnip, turnip, spinach, pea, beetroot, cress, leek, lettuce, radish, onion for salads. It is too early to plant tomatoes and to sow cucumber, marrow, melon, pumpkin, squash, runner and dwarf beans and Indian corn; except in very sheltered gardens. Stake peas as soon as they are about six inches high. Scatter some superphosphate or general fertiliser around growing crops. Plant citrus trees. Graft fruit trees, especially apple and pear trees; stone-fruits are more usually budded. L'se colloidal sulphur or lime sulphur before apple and pear buds burst. FLOWERS Plant ornamental trees and shrubs. Make sure that they are properly staked and tied, and also watered now and then. In the open border sow godetia, clarkia, larkspur, night-scented stock, and Virginian stock. Plant hardy bedding-plants such as carnation, dianthus, antirrhinum, pansy and viola. Divide and replant violets as soon as they have finished flowering; they like semi-shade, but must have a good deal of sunshine if they are to do their best. Plant all kinds of hardy climbers—clematis, wistaria, Argentine pea, akebia, mandevillea, bignonia, etc. Sow sweet peas in rich soil, but it should not be. very heavily manured. Divide perennial plants and replant the stronger portions (usually the outside growths of the clumps). This is the last chance to label bulbs before next year.

THE ROTATION OP OROPS This subject should receive the amateur gardener's closest attention, for he has often to grow his vegetables in soil which has been cropped for ten, twenty or more years. He probably realises before long that good results cannot be obtained by growing the same kind of vegetables continuously on the same piece of ground. In the first place, the crops will steadily diminish the special kind of food that they require, even though tile ground may be well manured. Secondly, the soil is sure to become infested with the germs of disease, as a result of working one portion, or depth of the soil, too hard. It should be remembered that different crops take their food from different depths of the soil. Shallow-rooters, like cabbages, peas, lettuce, and beans, take their food from the upper layer of soil, and if we grow these crops year after year on the same soil, a lot of valuable food material down below would be lost. The root crops, however, such as beetroot, carrots, parsnips, etc., obtain most of their food from the lower layer of soil, thus leaving the upper layer to rest and accumulate plant foods. A three-year system of rotation has constantly been found to give the best results, and may be worked on very simple lines, suitable for small or large gardens. The garden or plot should be markclT into four divisions, one space being reserved for “permanent” crops, such as asparagus, rhubarb, and herbs; the rest of the ground is to be divided into three equal plots. No. i plot may be devoted to root crops—beet, carrot, parsnip, salsify and scorzonera. For these crops, artificial manure only should be used; never use animal manures for root crops, because as soon as the plants come Into contact with the manure, they “fork,” or branch off in different directions, so as to obtain the food from the manure. The crop is thus made unsightly and also an annoyance to the housewife. No. 2 plot may be planted with beans, peas, spinach, celery, onions, leeks and lettuce, and for these crops the ground may receive a good dressing of organic manure (stable manure, compost, etc.). No. 3 plot should be planted with the cabbage family, including cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, kale (borecole), Brussels sprouts, and turnip. In the second year, on No. 1 plot, plant the beans and other crops from No. 2 plot, and manure the ground. On No. 2 plot, plant the cabbages and other crops from No. 3 plot ,and on No. 3 plot, the roots from No. 1 plot may be planted, using only artificial manure. The next year, the crops are moved on again, so that No. 1 has the cabbages, No. 2 the roots, and No. 3 the beans. Thus it will be seen that in this system of rotation there is econbmy in manuring; only one plot at a time receives animal manure. The cabbage family requires nitrates for the leaf growth. Nitrates promote growth, and darken the green of the leaves. Peas, beans, and other members of the leguminous family Ibe pod-bearers have on their roots little nodules containing bacteria which help to supply the soil with nitrogen. Thus, in planting after these leguminous plants crops which require nitrogenous manure, we are effecting an economy in manuring. No mention has been made of potatoes and tomatoes. As these are subject to the same diseases, it is unwise to plant one crop after the other. They may be worked into a rotation, being grouped with the surface rooters. Even if tomatoes have to be grown in the same plot for more than one season (because of sunshine and shelter . it is advisable to change the soil. Dig it- out to a depth of one foot, and a width of two feet, and replace with fresh soil. If a three-year rotation seems involved and troublesome, a two-year rotation should be followed. In either rase, a plan or diagram of the garden should be made for future reference. DAFFODIL CULTURE The second of the series of garden talks arranged by the Hamilton Horticultural Society was given by Mr H. M. Harnmond, his subject being daffodil culture. There was a small but highly appreciative audience. The following are the main points of his talk. Daffodil culture may be regarded as one off the most definite forms ol' horticulture. The Royal Horticultural Society shows its recognition o ft his fact by giving a very careful classification of daffodils, and registering byname a huge number of varieties. A book of 258 pages with about 30 nsmes to a page is devoted to this purpose by the R.H.S. With a series of well-grown bulbs before him. Mr Hammond then went :i to describe the classes and the system of classification. The matter of disease was dealt

with. Eelworm is the chief pest, and can do a great deal of damage—in a season or two it may destroy all the daffodils in a series of beds. The Ireatment is as follows: As soon as the bulbs have dried off (after lifting in December,, immerse them in water kept at a temperature of 110 de. F. for three hours. This treatment kills the eelworm, but puts some of the bulbs oc their proper flowering for one season, so that the blooms are distorted or otherwise impaired. Many off their proper flowering for one daffodil bulb now unless it has had this treaiment, or unless they plant it in quarantine (in a barrel or in a remote part of the garden). Soil for Daffodils As most people have to put up with the soil they have, it is not much good talking about the perfect soil for daffodils. People, however, must dig llieir ground deeply for two reasons—to ensure good drainage, and to give the roots plenty of soil in which to find food. If the soil is heavy, and the drainage not of the beat, it is well to have the soil thrown up into beds nearly one foot above the paths. Plenty of old farmyard manure can be worked in, but it must. be well rotted. It should be at a depth of fifteen inches from the surface, so that the roots do not reach it until a good deal of top growth (foliage) has been made. The beds should be about 3£ feet wide, the rows 12 to 14 inches apart, and the bulbs about 6 inches apart in the rows. This allows the bulbs room to grow for two years, in case they are not lifted at the end of the year. As for the depth of planting, it should be about twice the height of the bulb, so that a 3in. bulb would have five or six inches of soil above It. As a further aid to good drainage, a handful of sand should be placed under the bulb. The planting should be firm, and for this reason the beds should be dug and manured some time before the bulbs are to be put in. A common mistake of beginners is to tear apart two or three bulbs which really form one. Nature in her own good time will separate them, whereas the tearing of them apart harms the root plate and gives entry to eelworm and other disease. The time for planting is January, allowing a long season of growth. The bed should be hoed nnd kept clean for two or three months, but after that greater care is needed to avoid injuring the tips of the leaves as they aear the surface. By July all the varieties of daffodils should be through the ground. If any fail to appear they should be searched for and examined, as they are probably unhealthy. Unless the diseased bulb is a valuable one, it should be burnt, if it i 3 valuable, give it the-hot water treatment. The hole from which the bulb was lifted should also have boiling water poured into it, if this can be done without harming the neighbouring bulbs. After flowering, the plants need attention until the foliage turns yellow; they must be kept clear of weeds, as they are then forming the buds (inside them) for next year’s flowers. When the foliage dies, care must be taken not to leave holes by which narcissus flies could ’each the neck of the bulb. We can avoid this by stirring the surface of the bed and raking the soil, so as to close the holes left by the decayed leaf stalks. New Varieties Mr Hammond then described the method of raising new varieties. He thought it only fair to point out three drawbacks: The average time taken by seedlings to flower is flvl years; only one in a hundred is likely to be as good as the vatic lies on the market; lastly, the bulb may take two years after flowering to reach the stage of increasing by splitting up. The one seed-pod may have from three to thirty seeds, and should be gathered as soon as it turned brown and the seeds rattle in it when shaken. In the first year the plant would have one leaf, and in two years two leaves, it would then be big enough to plant out in rows, the bulbs perhaps two inches apart and the rows only six inches apart, to save space. Mr Hammond concluded an interesting talk by describing the qualities necessary in show blooms, and by answering a numbcc of questions on manuring, shading, sheltering, cutting, staging, etc. INEXPENSIVE DAFFODILS Mr Hammond has supplied the follow list of daffodils which arc all suitable for exhibition, and vet do not cost any more than five shillings each. Trumpets: Bonny Glen, Dawson City, Hallmark, Honey Boy, Master Robert, Morllake, Beersheba, Kantara, Leone Larsen. Honour. Incoinparabilis: Dawson, Havelock, Killigncw, Nissa, Pilgrimage, Scarlet Queen. Barrii: Call Boy, Lady Superior, Mrs Barclay, Mozart. Lecdsii: Mormora, Silver Pearl, The Duchess, White Nile. Hybrids: Harvest Moon. Silver Chimes, Trevitliian. Doubles: Irene CopeUud. Silver Hose, InglesporL

FROM PEACE TO WAR CONDITIONS IN ENGLAND LONDON, Sept. 22 Sir Samuel Hoare, broadcasting, spoke of the difficulties experienced by the population during the transition period from peace to war. He described the last three weeks as being “small offensives in war nerves, more difficult to meet than mass attacks. The transfer from peace to war was bound to cause dislocation, especially in industry, and the Government was doing everything to mitigate difficulties. The initial war effort was an effort of the whole country, and although there was unemployment caused by changed conditions in such an effort there was no room for idle hands. The gigantic programmes were shaping, and very soon almost every fit man and woman would be needed.” Sir Samuel appealed to employers not to discharge workers. The trade of the country must go on, for Britain lives by trade, and he urged prudent buying by the public and honest selling by traders. The great body of traders, through their organisations, had told the Government that they were strongly opposed to profiteering, and the Government was taking necessary powers to deal with a greedy minority. BRITAIN SHOCKED OUTRAGE IN RUMANIA LONDON, Sept. 22 The British Government, on receipt of the news of M. Calineecu’s death, immediately sent the Rumanian Government an expression of sincere and heartfelt condolence in the great loss which Rumania had suffered. Mr Chamberlain also sent the following message to the acting-Presi-dent of the Council: “I have been deeply shocked by the tragic news of the assassination of M. Caiinescu and wish to express my most sincere sympathy in the great loss which Rumania has suffered.” AMERICA’S ATTITUDE NEUTRALITY AMENDMENTS WASHINGTON, Sept. 22 The Administration has decided to include a new Neutrality Bill provision preventing American ships from carrying goods of any kind to belligerents. Senator Pittman, who is drafting the Bill with Senators Connally and Thomas for presentation on Monday, announced today that the decision is considered likely to win support for the measure from legislators who are unwilling to grant Mr Roosevelt discretionary powers in fixing danger zones in which American ships mu«t not venture. GERMANISING POLAND RECONSTRUCTION PLANS MONTREAL, Sept. 22 The New York Times’ Bydgoszcc correspondent states that while German armies still guard the conquered territory to the eastward to prevent an outbreak of the population’s hostility, supplementary armies are already relieving them for the front line, and are taking over the organisation of these regions. The service of the Greater Germany supplementary will consist mainly of police and labour servicers, Nazi partyites and numerous civilians for Governmental economic duties. They are working under the double motto, “Reconstruction and Germanisation.” German names are replacing Polish. Commissioners control ships, and businesses. German is both the official and prevailing language. All children, whether German or Polish, are attending German-language schools, which the Germans claim are the best nationalisation agencies. The schools and German youth organisations are expected to kill the Polish national consciousness within a generation. BISHOP OF LONDON A NEW APPOINTMENT LONDON, Sept. 22 The Right Rev. D. G. F. Fisher, Bishop of Chester since 1932, has been formally elected Bishop of London. WELLINGTON TROTS Wellington Stakes: 2—2 Gallant Chief, 1; I—l Three Tens, 2; 3—3 Imperial Jade, 3. Scr: Ordnance, Highland Scot. Thomas Wilford Memorial: 2—3 Great Jewel, 1; I—l Windsor Lass, 2; 6—5 Marlene, 3. Scr.: Jackaranda.