POULTRY NOTES.

Waikato Times, Volume 121, Issue 20248, 17 July 1937, Page 27 (Supplement)

POULTRY NOTES.

KQQB FOR BETTINGL On th® issue of this paper dated June 19, an artiole appeared under the heading “ Breeding Season at Hand.” A few hints should be of assistance. Breeding pens should be mated by now as, demand for settings of eggs will soon set in, and if good winter layers are required, one should not hatch later than September. Eggs for setting under a hen or in an incubator should be turned once a day whilst they are being saved for hatching purposes. Pt is also better to keep the eggs in an even temperature if possible, and if they are wrapped in paper, this will help to minimise evaporation. Eggs are porous, and contaminating sur- i roundings will hardly improve them. Select eggs of medium size, with nice smooth shell and as perfeot in shape as possible. Eggs with ridges around them, or long and narrow, or deformed eggs, should not be used. The fresher the egg, the earlier the hatohing. A good index as to the freshness of an egg i-s the air cell which enlarges with age. This can he clearly noticed by holding the egg long-ways between thumb and first finger against a good light. If eggs are put under a hen, nature gives her the wisdom of turning her eggs every day or so. If the eggs are In an Incubator, they should be turned eve-y day, until they commence to pip, when turning must cease. Setting the Hen. The heavier breeds aro the best to sit. At times, the light breeds may bring off a nice batch of chicks, but as a rule they are not to be relied upon, sometimes leaving the eggs before hatching takes place. Use a bottomless box about 9 Inches deep and 18 inches square and place It on the ground, covering the box with a piece of sheet-iron or anything to turn the rain. Put an Inch or two of moist earth In and then shape the earth so that the eggs have a tendency to roll to the centre, or In other words, make the nest saucer-shaped. Next put In a thin layer of straw, or pine needles for preference. A dusting of a good disinfectant powder should be used, working it well Into the feathers of the hen before placing her on her nest. This will destroy the vermin whioh she is sure to be Infested with. Put her on her nest during the evening on a few china eggs (slightly warmed). When satlsffed she has settled down to business, remove the chinas and put under her the eggs for hatching. The nest Is best If it can be kept a little dark, and remember that 13 eggs are enough for the average sized hen. If it is not convenient to have the hen on the ground, the breeder should remember to place moist earth under the straw or pine-needles. This moisture Is absolutely necessary, otherwise the skin Just under the shell becomes so dry and tough that the chick cannot cut through It and consequently dies in the shell. A small run, say 6x3 feet, Is beneficial around the box, so that the hen can come ofT and stretch herself at leisure and have a dust bath if necessary. The only food necessary Is hard grain, fresh water and good grit (oyster) and a little greens. Mash is not advocated for silting hens as it only slackens the bowels Do not disturb the lien when hatching commences. She can manage this herself. Do not feed the chicks until they arc, say 24 hours old. as this is better than feeding them too soon. There Is no risk of them starving even up to 36 hours but. once feeding is commenced, feed little and often and then dry feed only for a few weeks, with fresh water always before therm