UTILITY OF TREES.

Waikato Times, Volume 118, Issue 19631, 18 July 1935, Page 12

UTILITY OF TREES.

A PLEA FOR PLANTING.

SOME USEFUL ADVICE.

best varieties and methods

Part 11. (By E. Phillips Turner, F.L.S., formerly Director of the New Ze land State ‘Forest Service). In my previous article I confined myself to expatiating on. the great advisability of planting trees, the benefits —utilitarian, aesthetic, and moral derived from planting, and an earnest exhortation to observe Arbor Day as a special day -for planting. I shall now offer some advice on planting itself. The first thing to consider is the Jnhibititions of the 'local climate, for in this connection it is, as far as the Waikato .plains are concerned, a waste of time, money, and labour to plant any trees that will not stand fourteen degrees of frost; for instance certain failure would result in the planting of such beautiful trees as the Jacaranda, iPolnsiana (flamboyant tree), or even our own puriri. Wind in our insular climate is also a factor adverse to many trees, for in some the wood of the branches and leaders is brittle and they get broken off during strong winds, with the result that the trees become lop-sided or stagheaded with little or no beauty. The Californian redwood,' some eucalypts, and some of the Aoaoias (wattles) will not stand wind. The next major consideration is the land available for . planting. The usual town lot is a quarter of an aore, and as the house and gardens require most of this there is little space left for trees; and as it is unwise to have trees close to the house, and as branches must not extend into your neighbour’s grounds, or into the ’street electric wires, it is evident that no large-growing trees should be planted on town lots. This fact excludes the common chestnut, the horse chestnut, the plane and all other trees of similar, growth-habit and of large size., .Among suitable trees are crimson-flowered apricots, cherries, crab-apples, some of the magnolias, scarlet and. pink flowered gums, Cootamundra wattle,. Other small wattles, the native ..lacebarks, kowhai, titoki, tarata, houho.u, tree-ferns, etc., etc. Probably , theije will not be enough room for more,-than four of these.

Planting In Suburbs.

On suburban lots the number of trees that may be planted without inconvenience and with enough room for the development of their natural form depends • largely on the size and shape of the section. There may be room for several of the large trees with smaller trees between them, but the planter can best decide this by an Inspection Of fully grown trees of the varieties he wishes to plant as they may be seen growing in parks or old gardens. Oaks, chestnuts, rimus, totaras, etc., may require from 32 to 50 feet of space each, the vacant spaces between them when young being filled up with small trees or shrubs.' That trees should be allowed ample space to develop their natural growth-forms Is most important, and too often does one see trees which- have not their natural symmetry and grace owing to their having been sO crowded that they have developed healthily on one side only. I hiust here repeat the warning about riot planting trees so close' to the residence that access of light •and air are impeded and the risk incurred of the trees falling on the house during high winds. On farms, where as a rule there is abundant space, the same principles apply as far as Ornamental trees are concerned; but when trees are planted in large groups to supply timber as well as shelter, crowding is advisable in order to get clean boles for sawing or splitting. In such cases the planting, distance may range from 4 to 8 feet for cypresses and pines and from 6to 10 feet-for eucalypts. In these cases thinning will be required from time to time. The thinnings will be utlllsable for firewood or fencing, but to make such material durable In the ground treatment with creosote or some other preservative will be required. When it is desired to have single trees or small groups of . trees about the middle of a field, one or more-of the cypresses or pines are far the best, as they' tolerate exposure, are evergreen, and keep out wind and rain better than any other trees. For Breakwinds along boundaries or farm sub-divisions there is no more suitable tree than - the lawson’s cypress;-but for those who object to its .comparatively slow growth there are the alternatives of PJnus r4diata. br one row of this tree and a parallel row of one of the several hardy eucalypts..

Some Planting Hints.

Now, with regard to the operation i of planting mv advice is that where . only a few trees arc to he planted 'holes not less than 2 feet square and not less than 18 inches deep -should he dug, the turf having first been cut off; place the tree in the middle of the hole so that the roots, especially the tap root, will have full room; then carefully sprinkle the soil into the hole until It is filled, but whilst doing this the tree should be held upright by the left hand and given one -or two slight upward shakes, also when the hole is half full the soil -should be firmed by pressure with the foot, and this should be repeated when the hole Is filled. It Is Important that the young tree should be planted no deeper nor less deep than when it was growing In the nursery. When planting, except the soil be sandy, a dry dull day should be chosen, as -if the soil ts cloggy’ it .will not -settle well rolind the roots.

Where, it can be managed if. is an advantage to dig the holes some, time before the actual planting as by doing this the -soil gets -aerated and is made fre6. In the case of small-scale planting flic frees should he staked to prevent their - being loosened by the wind. When the planting is extensive it is advisable that the young trees do not exceed 18 inches in height as they are then not so liable (o be ; swayed and loosened by the wind. In such cases, also, the size of the holes may be reduced to 16 inches square. Tt. is important before and when! planting to see that the roots of the young trees are not exposed lo the sun or wind.

As a general rule July to the end of August is considered th£ best .time

to plant trees, but where special care can be given it is safe to plant from May to September Inclusive. It must not be thought that the trees may be left to themselves after planting. Where the planting is on a small scale special care can be given and it is desirable to protect the trees for a short time by sticking in the ground round them small tea-tree or other branches, but these should not be closer to the trees than 15 inches. Whatever the size of the plantation it is necessary for the first two years to keep grass and weeds from smothering or growing close to the tiees. If two leaders have formed the weaker of the two should be cut cleanly off, and any broken branches should be cut off close up to the stem, trees showing disease should be pulled out and replaced by healthy ones; if a tree has been loosened through swaying caused by wind it should be made firm again; and it is essential that all the trees have complete protection from 'stock at least until they have grown high enough for their leading shoots to be out of each. When the leaders have been bitten off by stock the tree takes a long time to recover, and it may never recover to make a healthy and well-formed tree.

Most Suitable Varieties.

It would take too much space to ■give lists of ornamental or . useful trees to plant undett all the varying conditions of available space, aspect, and quality of soils, but there are reputable nurserymen who specialise in trees from whom this information can be obtained. ■ The buyer of trees should see that they are healthy and have good soot development. As regards native trees suitable for the Waikato plains, the following are some of the best 'large trees: Red beech, Black beech, Rimu, Totara, Matai, Mire, Kawaka, Pahautea, Taneka'ka, '.Rewarewa, Southern Rata, and New Zealand’s .pride—the Kauri. Among small trees are the Lacebaoks (Houhere and Manatu), the mountain Ribbonwoods (Gaya), Tarata, Kohuhu, Lancewood, Ramarama, Broadleaf, Rangiora, 'Horoplta, Meketara, Houhou (five-finger), White manuka (Kanuka of Hawke’s Bay), Wineberry, bronze Akeake, Pink pine, Tree-ferns, eto., etc. When young plants of native trees are obtained from the bush it is advisable to get them from such sites as are most open to the sun and wind as such plants will be hardier than those got from densely shaded sites. Care should be taken not to break , the roots, and if a good lump of hush soil can be dug up with the plant so much the better. In transport to the home It is essential that the plants be protected by moss or wet sacking from wind and sun. It is best to plant them in the evening, water them well, and _ protect them from wind and sun in 'the way previously described. It is desirable to retain this protection until young shoots appear on the .planted trees as most of our indigenous trees are shade-demanding in their young stage. With most persons it is probably best to buy the young trees from a nurseryman as such trees will be inured to the conditions of the open; but some persons will, doubtless, find it more interesting to procure their plants themselves from the bush;' but in this connection I must ■point out that under the Plant Protection Act of last Parliament it is illegal to take any native plants from any State lands, and from roads, also that when taken from private lands the owners permission must first be obtained.

Arbor Day Observance.

Considerations of spgce have prevented my going into more details, and I must conclude by a final appeal to all to devote Arbor Day, August 7, to increasing the beauty and attraction of their town lots, their suburban sections, their farms, 1 or public reserves and roadvvays by planting on that day as many trees as possible. By so doing thriy will receive many benefits themselves, leave benefits for their children, and, by the beautification of their district, extend Its reputation, thus attracting 'travellers to visit it, settlers to reside in it, and the •present residents to remain in it.