PROGRESSIVE WAIKATO

Waikato Times, Volume 97, Issue 15980, 7 May 1924, Page 6

PROGRESSIVE WAIKATO

LEAVING BEHIND A WONDEOUS JQUBiEY SCENES WHICH WILL LAST FOREVER. RE-DISCOVERY OF SIGHTS CLOSE TO HAMILTON. NO. 48 (By Our Special Commissioner). Tn articles Immediately preceding this one an endeavour has heen made to give the vr.ado.r some Impressions gained on a trip to o most wonderful thermal region which has been added to the attractions or "Progressive Waikato" —and Hamilton in particular — •by the Inauguration of a new car service on the main highways route between Putaruru and Wairakel or Taupo, and then on to Napier. It was a great trip out, and the visit to this most wonderful of countries, where scenes of the most magnificent grandeur and the beauties of the upper reaches of the great Waikato River abound will never he forgotten. Scores upon scores of miles of country were travelled over, and no time was wasted. In one short week the -writer saw all there was to see. and more than the average person would think of seeing, or beholding, in a stay of some weeks. Not only were the tourist places visited, hut advantage was taken to see various phases of life as it is lived by setLlers hereabouts. Opportunity was' also taken lo interview men who know the part of "Progressive Waikato" under review, as well as any Government or other official. Matters affecting improved mail sendees were fully discussed, timber lands were, gone over, the Native Department's methods of dealing with applications for Native leases were criticised, and above all most exhaustive enquiries were made concerning the practicability of farming the tens of thousands of apparently waste lands and bringing them into a slate of productivity. Tales of * struggles' put up by big, lion-hearted men, who have gone in to do pioneer work, were also unfolded. Since the writer's visit a lot of water has passed under the bridge of time in a very little while, and already the enterprise of the Waikato Times in giving publicity to all that is happening, and has' happened, is bearing fruit. More cars are passing over the new route aa each day follows the other. On a recent Sunday the writer counted over a dozen which went by the accommodation house at Atiamuri Rapids—that picturesque and pretty spot which will be described in a later article. By the means adopted it is hoped to attract more people to 'Progressive Wal'vato' —the Garden of New Zealand, and the Empire's Dairy Farm. To the particular part of the country under investigation, Nature has given much of her bountiful store, the glories of which have till quite recently been little known. And just here once again opportunity must be taken to state emphatically that the Government Tourist Department has erred in not making the grandeur of Lake Taupo. the magnificent scenes of the upper reaches of the Waikato River, together with the wonderful thermal sights and views' of unsurpassed splendour at Wairakci, more widely known both in New Zealand as well, as overseas. Of late politicians and others have raised the cry that more tourists should be attracted to this country. Here is an excellent opportunity to utilise the drawing powers of the Wonderland of New Zealand, which has so recently been drawn into much closer proximity to, and relationship with. Hamilton the Beautiful. This is the story of the conclusion of the writer's visit. Truly it has been a wonderful experience. People whom he has had the opportunity and pleasure of meeting have appeared to be most interested in his tales of travel about this enchanting land. He has taken every opportunity to tell visitors from overseas all about "Progressive Waikato," and in several instances it has been the means of those tourists visiting places which otherwise they would never have known existed. In Article No. 43 a description of the trip out, how it's done, and what is to 'be seen on the road was given. Then night fell before the journey was completed. This later article will, it is hoped, give some impression of the glories of the whole journey in daylight. But before proceeding to do so, the suggested round trip from Wairakel through Orakei-Korako and Atiamuri will be touched on. Here again the Tourist Department is urged to show some enterprise, for which the trouble and little expense would be well worth while. As stated previously, , the story of Atiamuri and its surroundings will be told later. This particular one will deal with a most wonderful discovery, and the end of a perfect stay, as well as the feelings which come uppermost when departure had to be taken from "Wairakei the Wonderful."

Since the first article about this magnificent part of "Progressive Waikato" appeared many folk have expressed the wish to see all the beauties there arc to be seen. Several have taken advantage of the recent holidays to do so. And they have not been disapointed. Wiirakei has been made so easy of access. It is only 100 miles from Hamilton and the train and motor journey takes just under six hours to complete. Charges are light and accommodation is of the best. It is not like Rotorua, where long day trips have to be undertaken in order to see anything worth while. All the wonders of scenic beauties of Wairakci are within a radius of from three to six miles of the hotel- —the home away from home. The proposed, or suggested, new round trip is not more than 48 miles as against the 100 mile all day trips from Rotorua to the surrounding country. In the latter instances the great and lasting beauties about Wairakei and Orakei and Korako are not seen. They are "rushed" over in practically a few minutes or else missed altogether.

balmy atmospheric conditions remind travellers of the south of Europe. The tourist who accompanied the writer on this exploration trip said the cloud effects were similar to those at Rondesbasch in South Africa, near where the late Cecil Rhodes pasesd to his long rest. Thus in the heart or the North Island of New Zealand one is vividly reminded of the Southern part of Europe and South Africa as well as the Pyramids of Egypt all at once. It seems very strange but true. Into the Bowels of the Earth, It was here we left our horses and crossed the picturesque Waikato River. An old Maori chief, Rameka by name, took charge of us, and piloted us over in his canoe. He guided us lo what will surely become one of the sights of the world —the alum cave. How these most wbnderful of spots and places are not more widely advertised is beyond understanding. Proceeding along a winding sort of track hot water springs on each side were to be seen. It was all so weird and wonderful and seldom, if ever, have these parts been gazed upon by the eyes of the pakeha, or white man. To get into the alum caves you descend into the bowels of the earth by rude steps cut in the side of its banks. As you proceed the only light is that supplied by candles. The heat becomes more noticeable and it is a case of removing coals and waistcoats. Wonderful and all as Waitomo Oaves are the Alum Caves at Orakei-Korako stand alone. It is all pure alum, white and sparkling like myriads of precious stones in the candle light. The old Maori chief is typical of the men of that great race and is talking in a low musical voice describing things as best he can all the while. Once again you feel that disinclination to talk. This often comes over you at Wairakei. You only want to gaze and think—think of all the wonders of nature. On Towards Atiamuri Rapids. Despite the heat you wish to linger. but there are more wonderfully interesting things to be seen on this new round trip which has just recently been re-discovered as it were. Again you cross the wide swiftlyflowing Waikato River and journey on towards Atiamuri accommodation house, passing en route rapids and cascades and litle islets dotted among I he river's greeny-blue coloured surface. This particular part of tie upper reaches of New Zealand's Rhine is full of old Maori (legends some of which will be told later in the language they were told to the writer by old —very old—Maoris. Here is to be seen a patch of cluiff, vivid scarlet in sunlight. Its substance was used in I he old days by the Ngati Tama for war paint for which purpose it was highly prized by the tribe.

Over the Now Interesting Route. An early start is not necessary. An hour after breakfast will do nicely. Lunch need not be taken with you; it can be bad at the accommodation house at Atiamuri Rapids. After leaving the Geyser House Hotel you take the Waiotapu road to the 44 mile peg for a distance of six miles, where there is a turn off to the left. The journey becomes more interesting as you proceed and about nine miles further on the Arokonui stream is forded. On each side there is rugged hilly mountainous country, the bush being most suitable for miplling. Some idea of the class of land here abouts may be gathered when it is mentioned that it is good grazing and cropping country where root crops do particularly well. Here some excellent potatoes are grown by isolated members of the great Maori family. Soon a most peculiarly shaped hill, called Whakapapataringa is circled at its foot. It is the land mark for this particular part of the district. One is curious to know what the long name means and on being asked, an old weather-beaten Maori, whose allotted span of threescore years and ten have long since passed, told us that Whakapapa meant ancestors, while Taringa meant the "car of his ancestors" is listening. An Old Historic Spot.

It was a beautiful morning and our horses seemed to be enjoying it as much as we were as we passed on to ford the Kokuki stream, which is 'a tributary of the great Waikato River. This pretty little rivulet is just teeming with trout. Yet it is perhaps safe to say that no fisherman has ever cast a lly in it. Gradually you rise up and up. Away on the left stretcb.es a vast area of native bush, said to contain the finest rirnu limbers in New Zealand. And it looks it. Then conic scenes of marked beauty in which valleys and gullies, creeks and flats play their part to perfection. After crossing ttie Kokuki stream an old disused road was observed leading away to the banks of the Waikato. In answer to a question I he writer learned that an old Hamilton resident a Mr Isaac Goates, constructed that road when he pioneered this district thirty years ago. He also built a timber mill on the banks of the Waikato. Wondrously Beautiful Scenes. A sight which is as wonderful as it is unexpected domes sudednly upon the traveller as he turns a corner a mile or two further on. Here the first and most lasting view of historic Orakci-Korako meefs the gaze and steam rising from hundreds of geyser hcles and beautiful rapids down where the old Waikato flows, almost takes one's breath away in amazement. The lovely blue sky overhead and the

Soon the travellers commence to move round very high country all of which is of such an interesting nature, Suddenly, without any warning, the glorious Rainbow Falls burst into view. They present a most magnificently beautiful sight in the rich warm sunlight, the spray causing the vivid rainbow colouring effects. This view is well worth the trip alone. It is one which is for ever imprinted in the memory. An Old Maori War Relic. Half a mile further on is a relic of Maori war times. 11 is what is left of the old A.G. (Armed Constabulary) redoubt where the river crossing was held against the natives. In the distance the tall pines of Atiamuri show up against I lie background of mountains and sky together with a most unique shaped sugar loaf kind of solitary mount called Powhatoroa. It looks like a huge giant's tooth and appears to be just as forbidding. It is tapu, or sacred, and has been used as a Maori burying

ground. How they got the bodies to the top is a marvel. Presently the rumble of the famous Atiamuri rapids is hoard. Then, in a flash, their gurgling, tumbling frothy, white and green trout-filled waterway bursts into view. The Araliatia rapids, described in article 45, arc the real rapids in the Waikato River while those at Atiamuri consist of a leaping mass of little cascades. They have not the grandeur of the ones higher up at Wairakci, but still they arc very lovely—very beautiful. I A cheery welcome is awaiting the hungry travellers in the quaint old accommodation house, set amidst picturesque surroundings back in the pines on the banks past which the old Waikato flows. The table is j laden with good things, amongst them being trout freshly caught from the swiftly-flowing river as it passes the front door. A stretch in the easy chairs on the verandah and a smoke, then we are off again back to Wairakei, 23 miles away, through bush and rugged tussock country, a description of which has appeared in the two preceding articles. Tourist Department Should Act. What is wrong with the New Zealand Government Tourist Department when a glorious trip like the one described is allowed to go lo waste? What do overseas people come to this country to see and spend their money on? Is it to be whisked here and there and everywhere and away again without being shown the real beauties of this fair land of ours 'neath the Southern Cross? On the face of things it looks mightily like it. Here is a genuine case where the expenditure of a few pounds would make a most magnificent beauty spot under 100 miles from Hamilton, by good travelling, one of the tourist sights of the world. It is so close to Wairakei that the distance, compared with that which has to be travelled from Rotorua, is a mere bagatelle. It would only take a few hours, which > would pass so delightfully and so quickly, that the whole outing would seem as but a dream. There is not the slightest doubt that it would be the means of adding to New Zealand's revenue by attracting more overseas visitors to these wonderful parts. The whole round trip is one of 48 miles, or perhaps less. Again it must be emphasised that the visitors would pass through some of the most beautiful scenery it is possible to see anywhere. The great Waikato River alone is well worth seeing in all its stages as it wends its way onward from Lake Taupo past town and ham_ let on to the sea 220 miles distant. Its beauty in the upper reaches is unsurpassed. At present the Orakei Korako trip is practically impossible an account of it being a dead end. Cars have been known to penetrate some distance up towards its beauties and that is all. A description of what happens when a party of sightseers travel for miles in their endeavours lo view the sights hereabouts was given in the preceding article. For the expenditure of about £IOO or £l3O the whole road from the Waiotapu side to Atiamuri could very easily be made suitable for motor traffic. And if the Orakonui and Kokuri streams were bridged in a simple manner it would then be possible to make the round trip from Wairakei to all these wonderful places (which are at present unknown to any but those in the vicinity) anl back in comfort and with ease ' and pleasure. The forty-eight miles' trip could be easily accomplished in less than four hours and scores upon scores of people would be only too willing to pay for the privilege and pleasure of making it. Here is a great chance for somebody in authority to show some enterprise. Go to it.

Leaving the Wonders Behind,

The time for leaving all the wonders and beauties of this greatest of thermal and scenic regions is drawing closer as the hours go by. Somebow or other a sadness comes over one on the eve of departure. The trials and little troubles of life have seemed so far away. It has all been so restful, so calm, so tranquil and yet so glorious. The cheery, bright and homelike atmosphere of the Geyser House Hotel has been responsible for much of the feeling of gladness and pleasure. The lovely surroundings and the cosy fires in big open fire-places, in fact everything and everybody has tended to help keep away business worries. One has lived, for a space, so close to nature and all her manifold works of greatness that on looking back over the few days spent in her majestic preserve, one wonders if all that has actually happened did really happen. Has it been a dream? For trie last time, clad in pyjamas and dressing gown, ' you trip lightly through the brilliantly lighted grounds, trees and green shrubs to the natural hot water swimming bath nestled amongst the ferns, shrubs and trees of the native bush. Sweetly upon the stillness of the night the soft voice of a singer is heard plaintively warbling quaint old Maori melodies. It is a brownskinned native who is swimming in the pool. Merry jest and laughter, splashing and singing rend the moonlit air. All cares are forgotten. This is life—real exhilarating, joyous life. Supper is waiting in the large cosy smoking-room and then friends and acquaintances say good-bye, farewell, or is it just au rcvoir, to each other. One car leaves for Putaruru at 6.30 a.m. In the half light of the early morning the cheery voice of the night porter is heard to say for the third time of asking, "Are you up Mr ?" You spring out of bed as fresh as the freshness of the morning. A splendid breakfast is awaiting you and your fellow travellers and there is a heartiness about that breakfast table which is good to see and feel. "Are You all Ready?"

"Bill" the driver of the big service car comes to the dining room door and calls "Are you all ready?" It seems a pity to leave that lovely rbind of bacon and that last round of toast. But it must be done; the tto-torua-Hamil ton-Auckland express must be caught at Putaruru shortly after 10 a.m. The writer had told his fellow travellers all about the beauties of Hamilton and the agricultural advance of "Progressive Waikato." They had come from London and New York and wen' Ihe people who were being "rushed" through to Waimarino. But wisely they had decided to stay at Wairakei and sec Hamilton, the coming city of the North Island, and its picturesque surroundings. Added attractions were the lower views of the fine old Waikato river and the landscape paintings of agricultural development. It was "the country," as well as the sights, those world travellers wanted to'behold. And they were not disappointed on that trip. Their letters to the writer have told him so. Off on the Road Again.

Final goodbyes and farewells have been exchanged with <fhose of the staff who were on duly at that early hour, not forgetting mine hostess who had risen from her cosy bed to bid "her charges," as she calls everyone, "God speed." The thought comes up at once, with startling suddeness, "When shall we all meet again—and where?" It is in the lap of the

gods. Once more the ever familial cry, "Are you alright?" from BUI; our driver, and again the brakes are re-: leased. The big car shoots forward • over that wide sweeping drive [between row upon row of native (tree and shrub, out on to the new main highways road from Wairakei to .Putaruru, 36 miles away. Everyone is silent. Nobody speaks. Each is busy with his or her thoughts as:the human freight is whisked silently away into the hills and the glorious sunlight of an early winter morning,/It seems a long time before a pais--sender in the back seat somevsfhat hesitatingly to ask, ' ' What is that splendid mountain over there?" The spell has been broken. Tongues arellet loose and soon general conversation and laughter are to be heard on [all sides. We are a happy party, apparently care free. But throughout all that great trip time and again there comes a feeling of sadness when thoughts go back to "Wairakei the Wonderful." Someone is silent —he is looking backward to the happy hours spent with nature, amongst most excellent people, and above all one of the most restful and " perfectly lovely " times it is possible to conceive. On Top of the World. Up, up and yet up that high-power-ed car leaps as if it too is enjoying the glories of the unsurpassed views of great mountains, wooded valleys, hill and dale. You seem to be going up to the top of the world. Stretching away for miles and miles, north, south, east and west in the- • blucy and hazy distances, mountains seem to be tumbling over one another. It is indescribable. No pen-picture could ever do that trip justice. Really it has to be seen. And even then, the mind can hardly take in all that great vastness at once; With thieves, however, it is different.: Long, long afterwards, when you are far, far away little scenes of-! magnificence, likened to a travel film at a picture theatre, come up in the mind.. it:; is something which is forever im-V printed in the memory—a something which you feel you would like to be able to tell others about so that they too could enjoy the amazing beauty. But you can't. It is all so vast, so magnificent, so grand, so noble, so mighty. In the midst of all this bewilderment at nature's handiwork a flock of snowy-white sheep is passed. One of the travellers from London exclaims, "Well, I'm d ——!" He is immediately brougtrkdown to earth again by the sweet, low laughter of a woman's voice. Immediately he apologises. But it seemed unnecessary under the circumstances. He. was spell-bound. . We are nearing the agricultural country .of Tokoroa and Litchfield and our visitors from . overseas seem to become more interested, if that were possible. It is','. that which they have wished to see since they landed in New Zealand. Putaruru is reached in plenty of time to check luggage right through to Wellington or Auckland, as the case might be, only a grip being necessary for the keenly anticipated stay in Hamilton. Arrangements are also made for sleeping berths on the Main Trunk express. Then a shrill whistle is heard —the Rotorua-Hamilton-Auckland express rushes in to the station and comes to a standstill. Here the writer (and the driver of the car) takes leave of his new made friends, from those overseas countries, with a tinge of regret. One would like to go on further with them. It can't be done. There is other work stiil to be accomplished. With cheery waves of hands and handkerchiefs those more' ' than satisfied sightseers depart oft their way to Hamilton, the beautiful, where Mr Green, manager of the Government Agricultural Training Farm at Ruakura, will take charge of them for a few hours. Here they will have a splendid opportunity of seeing and understanding what "Progressive Waikato's" agricultural developments can be made to accomplish. It has been a great and glori- i ous trip—one which should not be missed under any circumstances. But the Government should see that the Tourist Department did its share of publicity. Private enterprise should be helped in this particular matter at anyrate. It is to be hoped change? are pending for the better. (To be Continued on May 10.)