A RUN THROUGH NEW ZEALAND.

Waikato Times, Volume XXXIV, Issue 2760, 22 March 1890, Page 5 (Supplement)

A RUN THROUGH NEW ZEALAND.

(continued)

While we were at Dunedin it waa only natural that we should wish to see something of the Otago scenery. Accordingly I took a return ticket for Queenstown, available either by the Waimea Plains or Invercargill. We elected to go by the Plains, that being the shortest route, aud to return by Invercargill. It would be a matter of some difficulty to describe from memory the varied scenery through which this line of railway passes. At Mosgiel, a flourishing town a few miles beyond Dunedin, we took particular notice of the Woollen Factory, which is, one of the institutions of the colony. It consists of an extensive brick building with the usual tall chimney, but very unlike the factories of the Old Country, being situated in tho midst of paddocks and cornfields. A [ little further on we skirted the borders of Lake Waihora, a broad extent of water, but very muddy. This is Owing to the numerous gold workings in tho vicinity of its atllueuta, as before the discovery of gold it was a beautiful sheet of clear water. , Some time afterwards we erosaed the Clutha, a wide and noble stream—the Waikato of the South. Near tho railway bridge which ia at Balclutha the river branohes into two and thus forms an island which extends as far as the sea, where the two branches again unite. Like Waihora the waters of the Clutha have become very much discoloured from the refuse it receives from the numerous gold washings in the upper parts of its course. The line here takes a sharp turn to the west, and after passing Clinton and other places of less importance we arrived at Gore Junction where we had to change trains. We then travelled at a very slow speed across the Waimea Plains as far as Lumsden, where we joined the Invercargill-Kingston line. The plains are very flat, and from what we could see from the railway, only second rate land. A good deal of it was laid out in grain, and the rest used for grazing. After passing Lumsden, following up the Mataura Valley, the scenery began to improve as we approached the mountains. We arrived at Kingston at ten minutes to eight in the evening. This imposing town consists of two hotels, a railway station and oue cottage. It is not altogether uninteresting, however The dark blue waters of Wakatipu lying between the lofty mountains on either side form a very beautiful landscape. Here also is the original outlet of the lake when it wa3 connected with the Mataura River, and the old river bed can be distinctly traced for miles running along-side the railway. We were allowed only ten minutes to change from the railway to the steamer, but it was quite sufficient. We started to sail up the lake in the beautiful evening twilight, which distinguishes the South of the colony from the North, but as it was very cold top-coats and perpetual motion were in requisition. Before we got to Queenstown it was quite dark. We arrived here at about half-past ten and found to our dismay every hotel and boarding-house crowded to' its fullest extent; all empty buildings and sheds wero fitted up with shake-downs, and every effort had been made to accommodate the crowds attracted by the races. In one hotel the parlour floor was offered to us, but as that was already over-crowded, we determined to try once more, and succeeded in getting a couple of couchcs in the smoking-room, after waiting for them till past midnight. The next morning we were glad to find that a great number of people were going away, and we succeeded in getting comfortable accommodation for the rest of our stay. I speut five days here and enjoyed myself very much. Queenstown is situated half way up the lake, aud is entirely shut in by high mountains, mo3t of which are trenerally topped with snow, and some of them are so near and so steep that they impress you with the idea that they might fall over upon you. Tho beautiful clearness of the atmosphere makes them appear nearer than what they ai®, while their general symmetry and almost unbroken slopes make them appear smaller, so that, wore it not for the very frequent appearance of snow upon their summits, you would feel inclined to infer that their reputed heights were much exaggerated. I felt rather sceptical in this respect mvself, but after a little experience I was quite convinced. Along the eastern side of the lake below Queenstown, and rising- immediately out of the water, there is a sublimely rugged ridge appropriately named "the Remarkables," the highest point, reaching the height of 7,688 feet. To the north-west of the town is Ben Lomond, which is the favourite climb of tourists to those parts. We did not attempt to break the record, but started the ascent at half-p?3t two in the afternoon, and reached the summit (5,747 feet) in about four hours. The first part of the aseeut, as far as the saddle, was very easy, as there was a, winding mountain track this far, but beyond this we needed both hands and feet to climb over crags and rocks. It required some effort to overcome a feeling of dizziness, in some places overlooking deep precipices. Although the climbing might be considered hot work, we found it rather cold towards the summit, and there was no need to dispense with our top-coat». When we started the top was completely covered with snow, but before we eould climb up to it, it had mostly disappeared under the influence of the afternoon sun, except a small patch here and there. We also had a slight fall of snow on the way up. It was very pleasant to see the snow-flakes floating about hither and thither as in days of yore. When we found our fingers gettiug pinched with the cold we of course resorted to snow-balling which soon rendered us comfortably warm. On the summit we found a hollow cairn of stones filled with drifted snow. Feeling into this we found a pocket-book and several visiting cards. We added names to the list in the book and each added an Gxtra stone to the pile. Tho views on every side were magnificent, even though the day was not so clear as it miofht have been. To the north there stretched as far as tho eye could reach, ridge beyond ridge of rugged mountains, mostly wliito with snow, with several blue lakes sleoping between them. On the south and west lay tho lake like a long 1 strip of blue fallen from the sky, with lofty ranges in tho background. Wo found it rather too eold to stay very Ion" to admire the landscape, and as it was getting late in the evening we were afraid or getting benighted before we reached the foot of the mountain again, so we returned to Queenstown, where we arrived at half-past 9 o'clock, when it was just dark. Another day we hired a conveyance and drove round the district. At Frankton we saw the Hospital, and also the picturesque rapids at the outlet of the lake, which are magnified by the natives into a waterfall. We followed the Kawarau River down as far as the suspension bridge, which is a splendid structure, about a liuudrrd feet above tho stream, and with a span of about three huudred feet. Then we turned off arid followed the course of the Arrow river as far as Arrowtown, famous iu the old "•old-digging times, but now of very little importance, except for a little fruit-growing. We returned by the Shotover, where wo saw a dredge working in the hwl of the stream. This method of (/old-woi king is said to b • fairly successful, aud it is likely to be

followed up by several more dredges. Between Arrowtown and the Shotover there is some good agricultural land, producing large quantities of wheat and oats. Indeed it comes upon one quite as a surprise, like an oasis in the midst of a desert of wild rugged mountains. The rabbit pest is much felt all over this district. Returning towards Queenstown in the evening we seemed to be following at the tail end of a monster rabbit procession. All paddocks, except very large ones—even if only in grass—are enclosed in rabbit-proof fences, and you find them swarming up to the very tops of the mountains. The shepherd's life in this part of the world is a very toilsome one. Tho mountain lands carry about a sheep to fifty acres, and the creatures themselves secm to have lost nearly all traces of their gregarious instinct, and wander about in. twos and threes, startling the mountaineer, in unexpected places, The shepherd's daily toil knows no level walking, and it is little wonder that he fails to see the poetic grandeur and romantic beauty of the familiar mountains around his humble cottage." As might be expected, water is very plentiful, and irrigation is largely carried on in all gardens and orchards, The Queenstown water-works are situated on the hill side at some height above the shore of the lake. They are supplied from a beautiful waterfall darting down a mass of rock in a cool shady gully. This is one of the most picturesque spots in this delightful neighbourhood, and is a favourite resort of all visitors to Queenstown, commanding as it does a splendid view of the lake, as well as other romantic scenery. Everywhere I found numerous traces of the former levels of the lake which was considerably higher than the present one. This was probably before tho new outlet at Frankton was formed. At Frankton the marks of glacial action are very distinct as well as in other parts of the district. The formation of most of these long narrow iakei of Otago is attributed to glacial action, which has scooped out the bed of Whakatipu Lake, to an enormous depth. TTrom every point of view the lake is of surpassing beauty, but beautiful as it was, I had to reconcile myself to leaving it, after a very short but very enjoyable visit; on leaving Kingston aud following the empty bed of its aucient outlet, in the monotonous railway, I voluntarily from time to time, cast my eyes back on the grand old mountains around it, which still remained in sight long after the lake itself was concealed from view.