FRENCH FASHIONS IN COOKERY. (Bristol Mercury,)

Waikato Times, Volume XXVI, Issue 2125, 20 February 1886, Page 2 (Supplement)

FRENCH FASHIONS IN COOKERY. (Bristol Mercury,)

Pkrkection of taste, whether in food or jresn, is almost universally conoecfcd to the French, and we got our " modistes " and our" chefs" straight from Paris, in the firm beliof that we thm procure everything that is loveliest, daintiest, and of the newest and most approved fashion. Ido not quite see why it should be so, especially in food. Perhaps in questions of personal adornment English women are somewhat slow to see what is fitted and best for themselves, whereas generations of French women have given their minds to such matters and there is much in •' heredity." Another generation will find English women and English kitchens considerably in advance of vrhat they were fifty years ago. It used to be the boast of English hospitality, that plain roast and boiled in profusion loaded the tables, and there were no French "kickshaws " ever to be seen there. But who amongst us is now satisfied with this same plain roast and boiled ? We have found out that it is an extravagant way of feeding, and that variety is one element in a satisfactory dietary. Science has taught us all something about the elements of the foo'i we consume, and how best to secure the full value of all the constituents of animal and vegetable material, at the same time making them appetising and agreeable to the palate. I believe the very iufurior quality of Continental butcher's meat compelled our French neighbours to invent ways and means of cooking it as pilatably as possible, for in English fashion it would be almost uneatable. So, as "necessity is the mother of invention," a school of cookery arose in France about the time of Louis XIV., who rejoiced in feasts and festivals, and the whole civilised world, after Ion? resistance, now takes its lessons there in the art of concocting dainty dishes. Half a century since middle class households in good circumstances seldom saw anything but plainly roasted joints, hot or cold, on their tables, with usually a dish of potatoes, occasionally, but not always, some green vegetable, and a simple pudding or tart to follow. The same class of families now never dine without soup or fish, and a large joint is considered heavy and vulgar; "made dishes " as they are called take the place of joints, and the skill of the cook is of more importance than the quality of the material used. Wo know that French housekeeping in much less costly than our own, ana that a tastefnl dish can be made out of very little by the poorest French woman, in fact that what is wasted and thrown aside in many an English kitchen, if it came into the hands of a French cook, would furnish an excellent and tasty meal. A charmiso littlo French lady living in Edwards square, Kensington, who has hitherto been known chiefly for the delightful classes and dramatic readings in her own language, in now givinsr a select number of English ladies the benefit of her knowledge of French cookery. Madame Lebour Fawsett is Reader at Queen's College, Harley-strtet, nnd has had many aratheringa of pupils in French at private houses ; hut her class for the advocacy and explanation of a combination of French and English cookery is .quite a new departure, and enables her to make many useful and practical suggestions from her own experience. Her very extensive acquaintance with French literature gives her alao something far more than a mere knowledge of French dishes, she understand* the theory and science of cooking, and her anecdotes of gourmets and " ohefs" in the art, both past and present, are most amusing. She kindly invited me to attend one of her lectures, and I hope to go to more ; for in that one I learnt a les«on of economy and good management, and secured several recipes, which have proved moat, successful on my own table — one of which I will to-day- give to my readers. Before I do so, however, I must «iy how amu«ing it was to hear the little lady expatiate on the suprf me excellence of a leg of mutton (un ffigot) rubbed once over with a clore of garlic before roasting, which pungent clove should be left in the knuckle. The production of a delicious dish of fiih " Sole au gratin " appeared as she described it to be most simple, but she told ns of her discomfiture on dining with a friend and pnpil, who had entrusted her recipe to an unskilful cook, and who, when it appeared in a blackened, dried, and spoilt condition, referred to it with many compliments as " Madame's favourite dish." "Alas!" said she, 'I had to swallow it all " (not the sole), " for it was unrecog. nisable, and I avenged mon honneur national, by giving a dinner myself shortly after to the same party with the dish cooked to perfection." It was thus: " A fine, large, rather thick sole is prepared. Mix in a basin some very fino bread crumbs ; oh ! so fine, passed through a colander, chopped parnley, a small shal- | lot, a few mushrooms, alio finely chopped, and a piece of fat bacon about the size of a nut. These ingredients must be very well and delicately mixed. Little bit* of butter mnst be placed at the bottom of a flat oren proof dish, or bright tin, and the sole laid on a bed of the seasoning. Then cover it well over with the name mixture, adding some more bits of butter. Over all this pour a wine-glass full of French white wine, Sauterne, or Chablis, and an much white stock. Put the dish or tin into the oven for twenty minutes, finishing it off with a few more raspinga and a little butter." Thus you will hare, paid Madame Fawsett, a most delicious di«h, fit for a King of France ! She rend to us in her charmingly pure French a letter written by Madame de Sevigne' on the occasion of the death of the celebrated Vatelle, cook to the Prince de Conde, who, failing to accomplish his attentions with regard to a special dish at some great feast where he thought his honour was concerned, stabbed himself in despair. Louia XV. was horrified at the idea of a female cook, but one day when dining with the famous Madame Dv Barry he was ao charmed with the dinner that he desired an introduction to the chef. His surprise when a woman appeared vm great, but he

-iynified his approval of her skill by dub••ing her " One Cordon Bleu," which is »till considered " unc honueur pour les damt-M FranuaiueH. ' Why .should not English women be equally ambitious of the same title P